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poroto

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For anyone who has done an MTO sport coat:

How close have the measurements and adjustments been to the RTW size charts?

The reason I ask is that I've found the back length in particular of my RTW jackets to be a fairly consistent half-inch shorter than the size chart. Was planning on adjusting accordingly, but don't want to over-shoot the length if tolerances on MTO are closer to the stated sizes.
 

alkydrinker

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For anyone who has done an MTO sport coat:

How close have the measurements and adjustments been to the RTW size charts?

The reason I ask is that I've found the back length in particular of my RTW jackets to be a fairly consistent half-inch shorter than the size chart. Was planning on adjusting accordingly, but don't want to over-shoot the length if tolerances on MTO are closer to the stated sizes.

Not a direct answer... but, AFAIK, S&M does not post the method of how they measure anywhere on their website (which is pretty bad for a company doing so much custom). Personally, my default/standard method for measuring jacket length (for any kind of jacket) is down the back from the base of collar. But, I don't think that is what S&M uses. As you noted, I've also found that their sportcoats come in about 0.5" shorter than the measurement spec when using my measuring method... I have a theory that the measurement is from the top of the shoulder down...which will be longer from the middle back/base of collar. I do believe that their measurements are consistent tho... so I think it's safe to adjust your order accordingly. Would love to hear from others on this.
 

A12321

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Not a direct answer... but, AFAIK, S&M does not post the method of how they measure anywhere on their website (which is pretty bad for a company doing so much custom). Personally, my default/standard method for measuring jacket length (for any kind of jacket) is down the back from the base of collar. But, I don't think that is what S&M uses. As you noted, I've also found that their sportcoats come in about 0.5" shorter than the measurement spec when using my measuring method... I have a theory that the measurement is from the top of the shoulder down...which will be longer from the middle back/base of collar. I do believe that their measurements are consistent tho... so I think it's safe to adjust your order accordingly. Would love to hear from others on this.
They measure from the base of the collar. But they also have a note that measurements have a tolerance of 0.5". I have found that their measurements are actually not consistent. I usually have to order multiple units of the same product/size and just keep the best example with least amount of tailoring needed.
 

BlueSteel

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For anyone who has done an MTO sport coat:

How close have the measurements and adjustments been to the RTW size charts?

The reason I ask is that I've found the back length in particular of my RTW jackets to be a fairly consistent half-inch shorter than the size chart. Was planning on adjusting accordingly, but don't want to over-shoot the length if tolerances on MTO are closer to the stated sizes.

Somewhere back in this thread I posted my results of measuring the length of about 6 of my S&M RTW sport jackets and suit jackets. They were all short. IIRC all but one were short by 0.5" up to a full inch. I find their other measurements to be very accurate per size chart, but jacket length is pretty much always short...which I do find annoying as someone who is already ordering 44L just to get a long enough jacket.
 

A12321

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Somewhere back in this thread I posted my results of measuring the length of about 6 of my S&M RTW sport jackets and suit jackets. They were all short. IIRC all but one were short by 0.5" up to a full inch. I find their other measurements to be very accurate per size chart, but jacket length is pretty much always short...which I do find annoying as someone who is already ordering 44L just to get a long enough jacket.
I measured all of the lengths of my jackets from bottom of collar to bottom jacket hem. See below:
SS22 38S Neo: 28.0" (should be 28.5" per their site)
FW22 38S Neo: 28.7" (should be 28.5" per their site)
SS23 38S Neo: 28.2" (should be 28.5" per their site)
SS23 38S Neo: 28.1" (should be 28.5" per their site)
SS23 38R Neo: 29.7" (should be 29.7" per their site)
SS23 38R Non-neo: 29.3" (should be 29.3" per their site)

Almost every single 38S Neo cut I purchased were shorter than the correct listed length. I returned several other Neo 38S because they just looked too short on me. I am in between sizes so the 38S is too short and the 38R is too long.
 

dapperclassic

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I measured all of the lengths of my jackets from bottom of collar to bottom jacket hem. See below:
SS22 38S Neo: 28.0" (should be 28.5" per their site)
FW22 38S Neo: 28.7" (should be 28.5" per their site)
SS23 38S Neo: 28.2" (should be 28.5" per their site)
SS23 38S Neo: 28.1" (should be 28.5" per their site)
SS23 38R Neo: 29.7" (should be 29.7" per their site)
SS23 38R Non-neo: 29.3" (should be 29.3" per their site)

Almost every single 38S Neo cut I purchased were shorter than the correct listed length. I returned several other Neo 38S because they just looked too short on me. I am in between sizes so the 38S is too short and the 38R is too long.
Those all appear to be within the +/-0.5" tolerance
 

dapperclassic

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This season's Moon glencheck

IMG_8915 (2).jpg
IMG_8914.jpg
IMG_8912.jpg
IMG_8910.jpg
IMG_8907.jpg
 

BlueSteel

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My 4 that are shortest compared to size chart:

Example #1 - blue DB sport coat - size chart says this should be 31.7". From the base of the collar, it measures 30.75" (short by 0.95").

Example #2 - Fox Bros SB sport coat - size chart says this should be 32.1". From the base of the collar it measures 31.25" (short by 0.85 inches)

Example #3 - Marling and Evans SB guncheck - size chart says this should be 31.5. From base of collar 30.75" (so 0.75" short) and outside tolerances.

Example #4 - Cerruti sand SB - size chart says this should be 31.5. From base of collar it measures 31". Just at tolerance for being 0.5" short.

Several others were short, but by a lesser amount.

I believe I never had a single one that was longer than the listed measurement...all shorter.
 
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spacenegroes

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From my experience Havana is equal to Contemporary in the same size. But I'd rather size up to slim in next size.
You can also write to S&M support and ask them to expedite your shipment for an additional fee. Costs ~15$ but it will be delivered in around 3 days
Can you get your hands on a suit supply havana cheap? I found their fit is very close to the slim spier in the same size

So I went to Suitsupply today. (Brief aside to rant: I got "helped" by a completely useless and condescending sales associate who told me I didn't need to worry about fit, and to leave that to him, and Havana/Lazio/Milano didn't mean anything and varied by suit and by year, so it was useless to try to find the right size and cut until I found the specific suit I wanted. Then I asked him for any 3-roll-2 and he didn't know what that meant. Any remark I made about how a jacket fit got him more and more irritated. Also he told me there were no 3-piece suits, and then the first one I reached for on the rack was a 3-piece suit. Ok, rant over.)

It turns out my best fit is a 38R in Havana. The 36 Havana was way too slim, the 38 Lazio was too slim, the 38 Milano was a bit too roomy, and the 38 Roma was definitely too roomy. I went into Gieves & Hawkes and also found that the 38 fit me better than the 36. Thought I was going crazy and when I came home tried on one of my 36 Ludlows, and it fit very similarly to the 38 Havana, at least across the chest.

I guess I'll try the 38 Contemporary Spier & Mackay suit then!
 

JTrent82

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So I went to Suitsupply today. (Brief aside to rant: I got "helped" by a completely useless and condescending sales associate who told me I didn't need to worry about fit, and to leave that to him, and Havana/Lazio/Milano didn't mean anything and varied by suit and by year, so it was useless to try to find the right size and cut until I found the specific suit I wanted. Then I asked him for any 3-roll-2 and he didn't know what that meant. Any remark I made about how a jacket fit got him more and more irritated. Also he told me there were no 3-piece suits, and then the first one I reached for on the rack was a 3-piece suit. Ok, rant over.)

It turns out my best fit is a 38R in Havana. The 36 Havana was way too slim, the 38 Lazio was too slim, the 38 Milano was a bit too roomy, and the 38 Roma was definitely too roomy. I went into Gieves & Hawkes and also found that the 38 fit me better than the 36. Thought I was going crazy and when I came home tried on one of my 36 Ludlows, and it fit very similarly to the 38 Havana, at least across the chest.

I guess I'll try the 38 Contemporary Spier & Mackay suit then!
Average SuSu experience tbh. My first and only visit absolutely derailed my fit and style for almost two years because I was naive enough to believe the advice these "Suit School" graduates offered me. I tried on a jacket I absolutely loved and the associate intervened and tried to put me in something two sizes smaller. "Trust me I've been doing this a long time," he says.

edit: The most disturbing thing in retrospect was the fresh trainee who was hanging on his every word and told me about how much he was learning from this guy- the guy who was unwilling to consider customer preferences and acted like he was dressing a window mannequin lmao.
 

mhip

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So I received both t-shirts I ordered, 1 modal and 1 two-ply.
Fit and length are perfect for me. Medium for my 6' #167 frame.
Sizing was consistent between the two.

Not a ton of difference, 2 ply feels slightly thicker, slightly stiffer. Modal feels more like a soft, tech fabric but not in a bad way.
I haven't washed them yet.

I like both, but if I re-order, it will probably be modal.
I live in SoCal so the cooler the better, and the modal also seems like it won't wrinkle.
Depending on how they come out of the washer, I'll order more.
With the discount for buying 2, I think it's good value for what you get.
 

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