SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[DonRaphael]

Does anyone have opinions or insights on what Spier is calling here a "flannel" or "brushed" hopsack? I usually associate hopsack with Spring weight (I have the M&E Navy from SS24), but this is 320g and has a fall weight and look to it.

I need a chocolate brown sportcoat in a Fall fabric.

View attachment 2278223

I have this in navy. It's a FW weight and definitely has a FW feel and look to it. It's reminiscent of flannel in the sense that it's brushed and fuzzy. Hopsack is an open weave, so it's more breathable than a tighter counterpart.

Here are pics of it, one with a wool knit tie and another with a silk knit tie. Also one close up.

In my opinion, if you're looking for a brown or solid brown SC for FW, there are better alternatives more suited for the FW season. If you have the basics covered, however, it's a good choice.

 

[syje]

What is the "Heavy Twill" on shirts like this like? https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/orange-check-heavy-twill-sportshirt-10441-c3kf5k

Is it brushed at all? Trying to figure out if this is a heavy weight flannel shirt or just a heavy cotton shirt with some texture. I love the regular flannel shirts sold here and wish there were some more options so can't tell if this heavy twill is the way to go or not.

 

[EdwardPatrick]

@SpierTeam any idea when we can expect high rise chinos to come in stock?

 

[Rhodia]

I have this in navy. It's a FW weight and definitely has a FW feel and look to it. It's reminiscent of flannel in the sense that it's brushed and fuzzy. Hopsack is an open weave, so it's more breathable than a tighter counterpart.

Here are pics of it, one with a wool knit tie and another with a silk knit tie. Also one close up. View attachment 2278255 View attachment 2278257
View attachment 2278259

In my opinion, if you're looking for a brown or solid brown SC for FW, there are better alternatives more suited for the FW season. If you have the basics covered, however, it's a good choice.

Thank you for this @DonRaphael.

I have a brown W/S/L from SS24, so in need of something more Fall weight. Brown Flannel over Hopsack is tempting, but I've always heard the rule that you cannot mix flannel when wearing odd SC and trousers. Instead, one should wear a tweed SC with flannel trousers.

SM has a couple of chocolate tweed SCs in the MTO. But the options are somewhat limited. I'm in the Southern U.S., so heavy Moon tweeds, for example, would only get about a month of wear per year.

 

[KlarkKent]

Thank you for this @DonRaphael.

I have a brown W/S/L from SS24, so in need of something more Fall weight. Brown Flannel over Hopsack is tempting, but I've always heard the rule that you cannot mix flannel when wearing odd SC and trousers. Instead, one should wear a tweed SC with flannel trousers.

SM has a couple of chocolate tweed SCs in the MTO. But the options are somewhat limited. I'm in the Southern U.S., so heavy Moon tweeds, for example, would only get about a month of wear per year.

Why can't you mix flannel? I have an odd hopsack jacket and it never looks like an orphan suit jacket bc of the texture in the weave. Always gets compliments.

 

[gonnagetmine]

@Rhodia if you're looking at brown hopsacks I've been eyeing these two:

Chocolate Hopsack Neo Cut Suit | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

Taupe Hopsack Sportcoat | SPIER & MACKAY

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

 

[DonRaphael]

Thank you for this @DonRaphael.

I have a brown W/S/L from SS24, so in need of something more Fall weight. Brown Flannel over Hopsack is tempting, but I've always heard the rule that you cannot mix flannel when wearing odd SC and trousers. Instead, one should wear a tweed SC with flannel trousers.

Yes, in principal since conventional wisdom dictates that you should create contrast in terms of texture between the top and bottom block. That is why I wear my flannel-ish hopsack with covert twill trousers mostly.

However, you can make it work if you style the jacket accordingly. In the pics below, you can see me wearing an indigo flannel SC with flannel trousers. The SC however, is styled in such a way to not be mistaken for an orphaned jacket; patch hip pockets, unconstructed, natural shoulders, non suit-y buttons etc. You also need to establish a clear colour contrast between the top and bottom blocks.

SM has a couple of chocolate tweed SCs in the MTO. But the options are somewhat limited. I'm in the Southern U.S., so heavy Moon tweeds, for example, would only get about a month of wear per year.

In that case, the FW brushed hopsack fabric would be a good choice offering more wear than a thicker traditional tweed fabric.

 

[JibranK]

I've always heard the rule that you cannot mix flannel when wearing odd SC and trousers. Instead, one should wear a tweed SC with flannel trousers.

Says who? Flannel blazers with grey/cream/etc flannels is one of the most established looks.

 

[Rhodia]

Why can't you mix flannel? I have an odd hopsack jacket and it never looks like an orphan suit jacket bc of the texture in the weave. Always gets compliments.

Yes, in principal since conventional wisdom dictates that you should create contrast in terms of texture between the top and bottom block. That is why I wear my flannel-ish hopsack with covert twill trousers mostly.

However, you can make it work if you style the jacket accordingly. In the pics below, you can see me wearing an indigo flannel SC with flannel trousers. The SC however, is styled in such a way to not be mistaken for an orphaned jacket; patch hip pockets, unconstructed, natural shoulders, non suit-y buttons etc. You also need to establish a clear colour contrast between the top and bottom blocks.
View attachment 2278345 View attachment 2278353 View attachment 2278347 View attachment 2278349 View attachment 2278351


I that case, the FW brushed hopsack fabric would be a good choice offering more wear than a thicker traditional tweed fabric.

Says who? Flannel blazers with grey/cream/etc flannels is one of the most established looks.

I don't know where I've heard this rule, but it's as @DonRaphael noted -- a textural contrast should be created.

That said, I'm glad to hear so many of you disagree with the rule (if it is one)! I've always thought it was rather odd, since flannel is much less likely to be mistaken for an orphaned suit jacket. And two clearly different colors of flannel seem like a natural FW complement.

 

[JibranK]

I don't know where I've heard this rule, but it's as @DonRaphael noted -- a textural contrast should be created.

That said, I'm glad to hear so many of you disagree with the rule (if it is one)! I've always thought it was rather odd, since flannel is much less likely to be mistaken for an orphaned suit jacket. And two clearly different colors of flannel seem like a natural FW complement.

That’s not an actual rule. It’s someone’s preference. There’s even merit to it (though I still wouldn’t consider it a rule) but I don’t think it applies here.

A textural contrast isn’t necessary. People mix tweeds all the time for instance.

 

[BlueSteel]

S&M Fox flannel sport coat with S&M Minnis flannel trousers...IMO flannel with flannel can be quite good:

 

[JibranK]

Of course. This is not contentious. The “no flannel with flannel” rule does not exist lol.

 

[TimothyF]

Many rules of male dressing do not exist, until some persnickety folks on the Internet showed up and started echoing each other's nonsense. Tuxes should not have notch lapels, until you find plenty of them in old photos and movies. Never button the lowest jacket button, until, again, you find a mountain of documentary evidence. On and on

 

[tmckay2]

Anyone happen to have experience with the wool/cashmere soft parkas? Im considering a charcoal one as a sort of do it all coat, seems with the hood it's a little but casual but without could go over a suit. I'm wondering how warm it really is, how it fits (do you buy your suit size or size up like on some other coats) and if it is something that could protect from some snow or if this is the sort of thing you don't want any kind of elements getting on. I realize you shouldn't wear it in rain. Thanks for any info

 

[burntalsoraw]

Has anyone compared the belted double-breasted overcoats from this season to the balmacaan? How do the fits compare?