Arterton - Official Affiliate Thread: Signature Garment Bag, Yearn Shoemaker, Nakata Hanger, Clothes Doctor, Dismantlable Umbrella

[prof.contingency]

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It is with great pleasure that we announce Arterton's new status as an official Styleforum affiliate. We know that there is a special community of individuals here, who have an insatiable admiration for classic tailoring whilst being passionate about craftsmanship and aesthetics. As a design firm, these are values that we happen to share, and, indeed, this commonality is the basis for our being here.

We have lots of colourful content to share in this thread, which I suspect will be of interest to many of you. There is much to come, starting with a series of product explainers, specialty brand introductions, Styleforum-specific sales, and a UK giveaway of up to 200 Clothes Doctor Washes! In this thread, I would encourage everyone to post, ask questions, and interact with us and each other.

Signature Garment Bag​

This occasion also marks the debut of the Arterton Signature Garment Bag, which is used for both storage and travel. Our pre-order run exceeded expectations and, currently, quantities are very limited. First deliveries have already begun! Order yours now.

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Chockful of features, the bag has been designed with the sartorial enthusiast in mind, even going so far as to garner a British design registration (6154967):

• Four Signature Colours
• 12oz Water-Resistant Waxed Cotton
• Room for up to 3 garments
• Unique double zip opening (metallic zippers and runners)
• Stitched leather trimmings between zips
• Foldable and travel-ready
• Can be paired with optional Bridle Leather Travel Handle

About the Interchangeable Travel Handle:

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Of particular significance, each bag can be paired with a modular leather travel handle, which can be interchanged amongst bags of various colours and sizes. This might be appreciated by those who enjoy the freedom to do their own colour coding.

Functionally, the travel handle also relates to a personal pet peeve of mine – wrinkling. In the case of most garment bags, as soon as the bag is carried by its handles (and not the hanger hook), the garment is left suspended “afloat” within the bag. This can ultimately lead to wrinkling. In addressing this, we designed the travel handle to be able to directly connect with the hanger hook(s). Therefore, when one is carrying the travel handle, the garment(s) are always left resting on the hanger. As for the handle, it is composed of ~3.4mm leather, which is thick, supple, and hand-finished by an award-winning leather maker in London. The handle is available in two colours: a Brown and British Racing Green (quantities are limited for the latter).

Note: We adamantly opted against any transparent PVC plastic, as they tend to degrade over time, which gives off odours and inevitably causes the yellowing of the fabric. We aren't convinced that they help one look inside the contents of the bag, when inside a closet even when lit. Instead, we offer colour coding, and, of course, the double-zip opening, which helps one peer inside without taking the garment out.

Who We Are

Allow us also to introduce ourselves briefly. We are a British design firm. That is – we wish to innovate on classic products related to the sartorial arts and bring something fresh to the community. Our modus operandi is to be selective and original – this is reflected in the products that we design, the specialty brands that we represent, and our aim in making certain types of products more accessible to the Western market. Nakata Hanger is a prime example of the latter. As a near century-old Japanese establishment, Nakata is a specialist artisanry of high-end hangers (in fact, one of the only makers outside of the PRC). With their attention to detail, Japanese craftsmanship, and material selection, they are doubtlessly the Rolls Royce of hangers (make no mistake, this is reflected in the price).

Our products are made all over the world. And, in general, we play no prejudice to the country of origin but, rather, discriminate based on expertise, craftsmanship, quality, as well as ethical considerations (a topic that I have lectured on). A case in point is another of the fine makers that we stock: Yearn Shoemaker, which some of you may already know. They are a pioneer in the Chinese high-end shoe wear domain, creating pieces that possess superior hand-welted construction and exhibit fine details, previously only available at the level of bespoke shoes. The leather uppers are sourced from Italy, Germany, or Spain and each shoe is hand-crafted in Chengdu. The result is a beautiful shoe with impeccable value (more on Yearn later). The point is that “Made in China” is not necessarily a bad epithet nor should it be.

My name is William and I have been interacting with Styleforum, on and off, for the better part of a decade. Whilst my background is primarily in the industrials, Arterton is very much an extension of my personal passion and has become a way for me to indulge in that which I find interesting. During my PhD at the University of Cambridge, I was frustrated to see a lack of availability in many things that I sought. So, I designed and commissioned a number of bespoke items, including the signature garment bag, which is the catalyst of Arterton.

We have many other products in the development pipeline, including a watch attache case, and we will soon introduce you to all of them here. I always like to keep an open ear. So, should you have any thoughts on upcoming products, feel free to share your ideas here or reach out to me directly (I do try to respond to as many messages as I can).

Styleforum Limited Time Sales

In celebration of our Styleforum debut, we are implementing a special sales period. On our website, use the code ‘SFARTERTON’ for:

20%​	Nov 25 – Nov 29 (GMT) Only
18%​	Nov 30 to Dec 3 (GMT)
15%​	Dec 4 to Dec 12 (GMT)
10%​	End of time

The earlier you use this code, the more savings garnered. Remember that we also have a generous 60-Day Extended Returns Policy. Free shipping is available for all UK-bound orders that are >£100, and free worldwide shipping (exception countries apply) on all orders that are >£350.

Follow Us on Instagram (clues about the giveaway)


[Discover our store now and make use of the limited-time sales.]​

 

[prof.contingency]

Yearn Shoemaker (Hand-welted Elegance)


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Many of you may already know of Yearn Shoemaker (see this thread). They are a specialist producer of high-end footwear based in Chengdu, PRC. In contrast to some other makers, the workshop is privately owned and makes no other shoes than their own collections. The two design directors – one particularly renowned in the Chinese shoe industry – along with their team, boast over 75 years of experience collectively.

Each shoe is made from European materials: the leather uppers come from Italy, Germany and Spain whilst the soles come from Italy. They signify what I like to call the triple H: hand-welting, hand-lasted and hand-stitched outsoles.

Hand-welting vs Goodyear Welting

Hand-welting, in comparison to Goodyear machine welting or, God-forbid, cement welting, is a labour-intensive process that results in a more comfortable and flexible shoe. This is for various reasons. For one, the cavity between the insole and midsole is kept to a minimum, so that there need not be thick amount of cork as a filler. Yearn’s hand-welting process allows for a greater amount of leather in the insole, which can better conform to the wearer’s foot over time. The shoe is left on the last for over three whole days, and it takes over half a day to hand-welt each shoe.

Understandably, there’s a lot of interest in Yearn. Justin Fitzpatrick (aka the Shoe Snob) and Thundermarch have written about them. They are now easily accessible in in the UK for a similar price (before UK tax) and will be fulfilled immediately from our stock. Shoes start at £308.33 (excluding vat). Quantities are limited and so, please do pre-order if you want secure your pairs. Our first deliveries for Yearn Shoemaker will begin, approximately in late January.

Browse our collection here. Customers can also order direct from Yearn.

Sizing

As of December 08 2021, Yearn shoes run true to size. We recommend that one take their usual UK size. Feel free to drop us an e-mail anytime, and we can advise on sizing on an individual basis.

We stock the standard width, which for Yearn is designated as Width ‘E’. Different manufacturers insist on different nomenclature. Yearn ‘E’ is a similar width to the Crockett and Jones ‘E’, Church’s F, and Allen Edmond’s D.


Free Exchanges

For exchanges, we always ship the replacement free of charge but ordinarily ask the clients to return the product at their own cost. However, for a limited time of 3 months (ends February 28), we will accommodate for both legs of shipping for any UK and European exchanges (does not apply to returns). Simply file an exchange request on our website.

 

[prof.contingency]

The Great Arterton Styleforum Giveaway (UK-only)

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Beginning on the 29th of November, and in celebration of our debut on Styleforum, we will be giving away 100 Clothes Doctor 50ml Eco Wash for Cashmere & Wool and 100 50ml Travel Wash to UK-based Styleforum members.

The giveaway will be across 4 bouts (on four different days). A code will be announced on each of the days, and users can add one of the two products to the cart and redeem for free. Orders will be shipped for free to customers in the UK. And, whilst the giveaway is intended for UK audiences, we will allow for members outside the UK to partake in the giveaway, which will incur a subsided shipping rate (e.g. £1.50 to Europe, £2.50 to Asia and North America). (Our apologies for this as recent shipping and custom trends have necessitated this).

In the meantime, feel free to follow our Instagram and subscribe to our newsletter on our website for more details.

Giveaway Schedule:​

Round 1 - 50x Free 50ml Clothes Doctor Eco Wash for Cashmere & Wool - November 29th, 2 PM GMT (9 AM EST)
Use CODE 'ARTERTONTHANKS'. One per customer and/or mailing address.

Round 2 - 50x Free Travel Wash - December 3rd, 6PM GMT (1 PM EST)
Use CODE 'CDTRAVELWASH'. One per customer and/or mailing address.

Round 3 - 50x Free 50ml Clothes Doctor Eco Wash for Cashmere & Wool - December 5th, 5 PM GMT (12 PM EST)
Use CODE 'SUITCARE'. One per customer and/or mailing address.

Round 4 - 50x Free Travel Wash - December 8th, 6 PM GMT (1 PM EST)
Use CODE 'FREEGIFT'. One per customer and/or mailing address.

About the Clothes Doctor Washes

Made in the UK, Eco Wash for Wool & Cashmere has been specially formulated to be gentle on clothing. Here, at Styleforum, we might find its use in our suit or odd trousers – the piece of clothing that tends to absorb more of the human moisture. I personally prefer to have my trousers hand-washed, as dry cleaning doesn’t do much for removing human moisture and can damage the fabric. However, I would refrain from hand-washing canvassed jackets.

On the other hand, the Clothes Doctor Travel Wash is a liquid-free formulation, which makes it handy for trips. They are useful when in a bind on trips. They are general purpose and can be used on a variety of clothing: shirts, sportswear, underwear, and trousers (if you wish). Just use less of the wash for any given amount of water to be gentler.

Spread the Word Programme

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If you are a lucky recipient of the “Great Arterton Styleforum Giveaway”, please note that if you leave (i) a product review or (ii) make a tagged social media post, you will be eligible to receive £4 and £6 account credit respectively, which can be used on any future orders.

Moreover, this Spread the Word Programme is all year-round and will apply to any of our orders, independent of the giveaway. So, feel free to give our garment bags a try.

 

[prof.contingency]

Nakata Hangers (Made In Japan)​

The "Rolls Royce" of garment hangers definitely goes to one specialist workshop in Japan who’s roots extend as early as the Taisho period: Nakata Hangers. All of their hangers are made by hand in a beautiful city within Hyogo prefecture.

As of late, they are also the hangers of choice for The Armoury and WW Chan – those in Hong Kong and New York may pick them up there. However, we have now brought them into the UK to be made readily available. Delivery begins early March 2022. Find out more about the Nakata Hanger brand here.

About the Hangers (what's so special?)

Since each hanger is made by hand, additional attention can be given to selecting materials (such as avoidance of knots, grain matching). The neck and shoulders are contoured by hand, which ensures that there are no unnecessary stresses on the garment around the collar or shoulders. They are also contoured in a way to open up the garment and encourage breathability.

The AUT-03 and AUT-05 both have a shoulder thickness of 57mm. And the felted trouser bars of the hangers feature a market-leading diameter of 1.5cm. These reduce the possibility of any unsightly fold-line.

Interestingly, there is also a trouser hanger – AUT-11 with a ‘Zig’ design, which creates a barrier-less opening on one side. These are designed in such a way for trousers to be easily hung or retrieved from the hanger, even when the hanger is in the closet.

Arterton by Nakata

Nakata also manufactures our Signature Hanger collection. Offered for shirting and suiting/jackets, these hangers are an aesthetic addition to one's wardrobe. They are stained, with a water-base formulation (which leaves their wood grain intact) in our signature ‘Dutch Estate Blue’ and ‘Cambridge Red’ colours.

Pre-order now as quantities are limited.​

 

[prof.contingency]

Some new photos from the other day:

Depicting the narrow waist of a Yearn OXF 338 shoe.


And some Autumnal boots (BTS 227)

 

[LA Guy]

I don't do reviews on the forum for obvious COI reasons, but I will say that the Yearn shoes are really well finished, especially at their price levels.

 

[clee1982]

20 off on Yearn is great, don’t need anything but almost feel tempted to try

 

[clee1982]

By the way what makes your clothe brush different than say Kent?

 

[prof.contingency]

I don't do reviews on the forum for obvious COI replies, but I will say that the Yearn shoes are really well finished, especially at the price levels.

Fok, thank you for the kind words!

 

[prof.contingency]

By the way what makes your clothe brush different than say Kent?

Thanks! What a great question. I would love it for some others to chime in as well.

To answer your question: in my opinion, Kent makes some great, great brushes. I personally have a few. But, more generally, if one were to be particular with the care of their clothing, then I think different brushes are good for different applications. On this note, there would seem, to me, to be three main factors: (i) Bristles Shape (flat or round), (ii) Bristle Type (hard or soft), and (iii) Handle Material.

Let's get the discussion of the third factor out of the way first, as it has the simplest answer. The handle material (e.g. Beechwood, Rosewood, Cherry) is more or less subjective to one's aesthetic tastes. That is -- I do not think the handle material affects the performance of one's brushing.

As for the matter of the bristles, I find that the Clothes Doctor one has a neat feature in that there are two bristle-types on the same brush. This allows for one, using the same brush to be able to get the more engrained or stubborn debris with the stiffer bristles, and the softer bristles can delicately finish it off. You will find that a lot of brushes that are aimed at delicate fabrics, like Cashmere, will have this feature. The smaller rectangular shape also allows one to be a bit more articulate.

In the end, one should go for that which fits their uses. Just my two cents.

 

[LA Guy]

The waist here on the Yearn shoes is really quite nice and distinctive:

 

[prof.contingency]

Thank you everyone! These are some of our garment bag orders from Thursday!

Stay tuned for more news about The Great Arterton Styleforum Giveaway!

 

[prof.contingency]

The first bout of The Great Arterton Styleforum Giveaway will begin tomorrow at 2 PM (GMT + 0) (9 AM EST)!​

We will be giving away 50 of the 50ml Clothes Doctor Eco Wash for Cashmere and Wool in the first bout (three more bouts to follow). First come first serve!

Styleforum members can simply 'Add to Cart' and checkout with code 'ARTERTONTHANKS'. Shipping will be completely free to UK residents (e.g. £1.50 to Europe, £2.50 to Asia and North America). Our Spread the Word programme will also apply. Only per redemption per customer and/or mailing address.

The Clothes Doctor Eco Wash for Cashmere and Wool is made in Britain and stored in aluminium bottles. Its formulation is gentle on cashmere and wool. Perfect for trousers, jumpers and more!

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If you miss the first bout, there will be three more in the days to come. Keep your eye on this thread, follow us on Instagram, or subscribe to our newsletter.

 

[clee1982]

by the way on your sizing advice, do you mean go up 1/2 size from CJ size or EG/GG size?

 

[prof.contingency]

by the way on your sizing advice, do you mean go up 1/2 size from CJ size or EG/GG size?

Based on a few client data points, we would recommend that clients size up 1/2 from CJ. So if you wear 10 UK on most major CJ lasts, we would recommend 10.5 UK on Yearn.

This is corroborated by our own last measurements but, unfortunately, we don't have access to other manufacturers' last measurements (but we can guestimate some of them).

Dec 8 Edit: Yearn shoes now fit true to size. Please take your usual UK size.

As a note aside: interestingly, populational variances have been well known for some time. Caucasian feet tend actually to be narrower than east Asian feet. Here's a recent comprehensive study on shoe sizes, which is published in Nature: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-019-55432-z