SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[spiermackay]

Can I just get a quick clarification on sleeve length?

I typically order the S&M 15.5 slim fit shirts. If I wanted to order the same spec what sleeve length would I select with the new options?

The 35 Its only fractionally longer, but after a couple of washes it's pretty much the same.

 

[spiermackay]

Any chance of getting more of the dressier shirt options without a placket? I migrated to a French front look and just can't go back.

Working on it. Will do a run of some business staples to start.

 

[spiermackay]

I've been ordering MTM shirts with a French front as well. I find that with lighter fabrics the shirt collar doesn't stay up as nicely when the top button is unbuttoned. Is there an type of constuction that can be requested that allows for a French front look, but provides more structure to prevent this?

A French placket doesn't have any interlining in it and doesn't support a structured collar as well.

We're e experimenting with a french placket that we put a light piece sandwiched between the turn. I'll get back to the forum whenwe finalize that.

 

[tricky]

The 35 Its only fractionally longer, but after a couple of washes it's pretty much the same.

Perfect thank you. I'm actually ok with a fraction longer anyways. Thanks!

 

[razl]

I've been ordering MTM shirts with a French front as well. I find that with lighter fabrics the shirt collar doesn't stay up as nicely when the top button is unbuttoned. Is there an type of constuction that can be requested that allows for a French front look, but provides more structure to prevent this?

I'll add that this is critically important to me too but it can be done. I'm in hot and humid Florida and was born with an overactive "It's Hot, Start Sweating!"" gene, so my shirt stable is mostly of light and breathable fabrics and from makers with well executed collars that do indeed stand well unbuttoned (and some even with lower front buttoning points).

I say that because there are other makers who's collars regularly collapse, even over years of evolution with various collar "updates", tweaks, etc. As much as I ogle their fabrics and wish for their price point, I've just bought and donated too many of their shirts because an unbuttoned collar would go flat.

I can't say what magic tricks that are necessary to do it, I can only say that some makers have mastered it and some haven't. I used to think it was a price point issue - too much work to do it "right" - but I no longer think that's the case, or at least not the only factor.

Regardless, that's a deal breaker.

 

[razl]

Working on it. Will do a run of some business staples to start.

Great, looking forward to them - thanks!

 

[Hailwood]

Just got back some preliminary pricing on the Chunky Knit Sweaters. 100% Merino Wool. 5gauge knit. Approx. $148 USD.

I'd definitely be in for at least 1~2 at that price.

 

[spiermackay]

I'll add that this is critically important to me too but it can be done. I'm in hot and humid Florida and was born with an overactive "It's Hot, Start Sweating!"" gene, so my shirt stable is mostly of light and breathable fabrics and from makers with well executed collars that do indeed stand well unbuttoned (and some even with lower front buttoning points).

I say that because there are other makers who's collars regularly collapse, even over years of evolution with various collar "updates", tweaks, etc. As much as I ogle their fabrics and wish for their price point, I've just bought and donated too many of their shirts because an unbuttoned collar would go flat.

I can't say what magic tricks that are necessary to do it, I can only say that some makers have mastered it and some haven't. I used to think it was a price point issue - too much work to do it "right" - but I no longer think that's the case, or at least not the only factor.

Regardless, that's a deal breaker.

Technically it's not that easy. That's why only a few have mastered it. To create support where there normally is none is the tricky part.

 

[razl]

Technically it's not that easy. That's why only a few have mastered it. To create support where there normally is none is the tricky part.

I don't doubt it at all, I have -scrutinized- shirt and collar constructions that do and don't stand and have only occasionally thought I spotted the key factor detail - Aha! - only to be proven wrong.

Note that I'm no tailor, but am analytical and an engineer of sorts, and have an appreciation for the craft so I'm not a a totally unskilled eye but darn it if I haven't been able to discern what makes or breaks it. Clearly there's skilled workmanship and/or magic that goes into it.

ps - Good luck, we're counting on you!

 

[spiermackay]

I don't doubt it at all, I have -scrutinized- shirt and collar constructions that do and don't stand and have only occasionally thought I spotted the key factor detail - Aha! - only to be proven wrong.

Note that I'm no tailor, but am analytical and an engineer of sorts, and have an appreciation for the craft so I'm not a a totally unskilled eye but darn it if I haven't been able to discern what makes or breaks it. Clearly there's skilled workmanship and/or magic that goes into it.

ps - Good luck, we're counting on you!

We're trying. I'll actually be in the factory on Saturday going over the first samples.

 

[sobecane]

Are all the Twill basics now black label? I seem to remember 2 years ago there was an option for white or black label

 

[Hovi]

Pretty bummed that my order for tweed trousers didn't work out the first round. I suppose that its my fault for not understanding the measurements of the slim-cut better.

Got at least one exchanged pair of tweeds coming soon though, so looking forward to that.

I'm sure its common knowledge with this group, but I used the PayPal reimbursement for return shipping and it worked great.

 

[ahtynes]

Any idea when trousers are going to be restocked? Would love to pick up some slim flannel/tweed stuff in size 33.

 

[CanadaCal]

Nothing tweed or flannel will be restocked at this point. But I’m sure there will be tweed and flannel for next fall

 

[theh00d]

Anyone know how the trousers fit compared to Epaulet Walts?
Thanks!