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Official Rochester Tailored Clothing (formerly Hickey Freeman) Thread

KPDUNN

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Epaulet

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1) Definitely yes for the J.Press Blazer. I believe that they got a bunch of inventory before the latest price increases. It's a good deal if you take a J.Press stock fit and they have your size on hand.

2) Not sure about J.Press & Sons, but I'd imagine so. RTC makes for a few different Japanese labels.

3) RTC was doing quite a bit for O'Connells and I'm sure made the blazer that's pictured. They're a legendary store but online sales isn't really their thing. They're showing like every possible size and length.. so I'm thinking that their dropdown isn't totally accruate to on-hand stock.

The guys at O'Connells are very friendly, so I'd advise calling them to go through the product first before placing an order.

As far as Epaulet goes, I don't typically offer that Italian hopsack which was used in their basic stock blazers. But I do have several colors and weights of Hardy Minnis Fresco available, and I'm planning to launch it next week with a launch code.

The retail will be quite a bit higher than this $695 stock pricing. But I'm of the mind that an RTC (Hickey Freeman) navy blazer is something to own and enjoy for years on end. Hardy Minnis Fresco is the best fabric out there for a trad jacket, and if you can afford the MTO experience, then it's worth it to get the jacket done to your specs, with your design choices, with your name inside, and with full canvas construction. It can be a defining piece of your wardrobe. I'll post up the fabric selection here once it's live!
 

Epaulet

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Pendleton Leader NL.jpg


PENDLETON NAVY MID-CENTURY 9OZ WOOL

(April 5th: we have a discount code on this, but it's only good until Saturday April 6th. Use code wool15 at checkout for 15% off custom garments in this cloth)

Hey guys!

My latest fabric listing is a very cool solid wool gabardine. I bought a large roll of this fabric locally, so it's a limited deadstock find. It was made by Pendleton at their mill in Oregon, and was woven in the early 2010s.

It's a great navy color and it's a piece of American history, but I'd say the thing that really stands out is the weight and vibe. It's the kind of thing that you only feel in a vintage shop these days.

I was struggling to find a photo to illustrate this... so bear with me on this one from Get Smart...

shorthair3.jpg


Okay, so that is NOT this Pendleton fabric. It's not even the color, as our Pendleton fabric is a true dark navy.

But imagine how that suit feels. It's a thicker cloth and a different drape than the more conventional Vitale Barberis-esque suiting that we see these days. It has more weight and presence. If you've gone shopping for vintage tailoring from the 50's and 60's, then you know what I mean. Many of those pieces were made with USA-woven wool, which is very different from the modern European goods of today.

This particular cloth is from the early 2010s, but the style, feel, and weight are the same. Pendleton is one of the last remaining woolen mills in this entire country, and this particular fabric is discontinued.

It's a great basic navy, with a cool story, a unique feel and drape, and a very fair price. If you're in the market for some navy pieces, then this is an excellent opportunity! You can order it in three different categories:

CUSTOM TROUSERS: From $345

CUSTOM SUITS AND SPORTCOATS: From $995

CUSTOM DOYLE CHORE COATS, TEBA JACKETS, & FIELD JACKETS: From $500

Pendleton Fabric.jpg
 

Epaulet

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Hey everyone!

I just received our first two makeups in this amazing tweed. Pictured are the Nuovo sportcoat with a custom 4.5" peak lapel and the Field Jacket.

We have just 10 yards remaining.. enough for about 4 pieces in total. Here's the links to check it out and order online

Custom Sportcoats and Suits in 18oz Magee Herringbone

Custom Doyles, Tebas, and Field Jackets in 18oz Magee Herringbone

Custom Trousers in 18oz Magee Herringbone

And here's the spiel...

Woven in Ireland by Magee 1866, this is one of the most incredible tweeds that I've ever seen!

The base tones are a mixture of chestnut and burnt orange - and multicolored flecks of red, yellow, green, and orange are sprinkled throughout the weave. It's woven by hand and features an intricate medium-scale herringbone.

This 100% wool weighs in at 18oz - the same weight as Harris Tweed. It's extremely thick and warm. Your custom garments will have to the strength to last generations. This promotional pricing is approximately 40% off our MSRP, so don't miss out on this incredible fabric.

Nuovo Peak Lapel Magee Herringbone1.jpg
Nuovo Peak Lapel Magee Herringbone2.jpg
Field Jacket Magee Herringbone1.jpg
Field Jacket Magee Herringbone4.jpg
Nuovo Magee Herringbone7.jpg
Nuovo Magee Herringbone8.jpg
 

Todd V

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@Epaulet

Hello, Eva and friends,

I am one of your old school customers from the factory finds days. I’ve been wearing suits to work for 10 years but I might finally have to give in and dress it down a little. A little. I’m thinking sport coats and trousers, a little more fun, perhaps the solid coat/crazy pants look but keep the ties and nice more fun with it so I don’t look so overdressed every day.

I’ve blown through the crotch of some of those famous Southwick tweeds and torn through the a$$ of the rest.

My question is will you reestablish the broad stock of staple fabrics with RTC sometime soon, or have any ends for friends type of situation (I’m guess that train has sailed with the recent changes in the industry) and or reestablish the staple selection from Individualized? The Pendleton navy fabric is up my alley and I’m a sucker for these limited opportunities, but I am all full up on navy blue.

Thanks,
Ginz
 

Epaulet

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@Epaulet

Hello, Eva and friends,

I am one of your old school customers from the factory finds days. I’ve been wearing suits to work for 10 years but I might finally have to give in and dress it down a little. A little. I’m thinking sport coats and trousers, a little more fun, perhaps the solid coat/crazy pants look but keep the ties and nice more fun with it so I don’t look so overdressed every day.

I’ve blown through the crotch of some of those famous Southwick tweeds and torn through the a$$ of the rest.

My question is will you reestablish the broad stock of staple fabrics with RTC sometime soon, or have any ends for friends type of situation (I’m guess that train has sailed with the recent changes in the industry) and or reestablish the staple selection from Individualized? The Pendleton navy fabric is up my alley and I’m a sucker for these limited opportunities, but I am all full up on navy blue.

Thanks,
Ginz
Hey Ginz!!

Thanks so much for your post, I'd love to make this stuff for you. I've still got your sizing on file.

1) In terms of basic fabrics, our Huddersfield collection is the opening price point. We've got pretty much every solid and texture color shade in there. The goods are absolutely beautiful and a strong value for the price.

2) Yes to Individualized! They've had some big changes with their fabric inventory, so I haven't been pushing things too hard with them. But they reinvested into a nice selection of perennial fabrics and their turnaround time is back to pre-Covid speeds, so I intend on rebuilding our assortment over the next few weeks. They'll be lots to choose from.
 
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Epaulet

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Camel lead.jpg

15% Off our Best Selling Fabric of the Season until midnight 4/28

With over 100 custom garments sold, Racing Green Camel hair is our most popular custom fabric of 2024. And here's why:

  • It's incredibly soft and luxurious. However you imagine that this feels.. it's even better in real life.
  • Our pricing is super competitive. Joshua Ellis makes the finest Camel hair on Earth and RTC's construction is top notch - making these pieces an exceptional value.
  • This Racing Green colorway was an exclusive production run. it's not normally stocked, and so it's incredibly rare and distinct.
  • But... it's also extremely wearable. It jibes wonderfully with navy, grey, khaki, and indigo. You'll find that it plays nicely with most items in your wardrobe.
Treat yourself to something truly exceptional.Invest in a true heirloom piece that you can pass along to the next generation.

And be sure to use this code for 15% off until tomorrow night:

camel15

Custom Teba, Doyle, and Field Jackets: From $467 with code camel15

Teba Camel 2.jpg



Custom Trousers: From $382 with code camel15
Trousers Green Camel.jpg



Custom Overcoats: From $1356 with code camel15

Balmaccan Text.jpg


Custom Sportcoats and Suits: From $1062 with code camel15
Nuovo Green Camel2.jpg
 

Epaulet

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Factory Finds YT.jpg

Lightweight and Breezy Custom Fabrics At Unbeatable Prices

Our popular "Factory Finds" promotion is back! We've got elegant linen from Ireland and Italy, luxurious woolen blends, absolutely stunning wool-silk suiting, and two of the nicest Loro Piana fabrics that we've ever offered.

Each fabric is available for immediate makeup in our full collection of custom shapes. Stock is limited and the pricing is already discounted around 25% off MSRP. But if you order by next Tuesday, you can save an additional 15% with the code below...

summer15
As always, the fabrics are organized into three categories for ordering. If you have any questions on sizing, styling, or fabrication, please use the chat function of our site to speak to Eva Kuhle directly. Good hunting!

CUSTOM SUITS AND SPORTCOATS: From $892 with code summer15

CUSTOM TROUSERS: From $251 with code summer15

CUSTOM TEBA, DOYLE, AND FIELD JACKETS: From $425 with code summer15
 

Epaulet

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Here's a quick cross-post from the main Epaulet thread regarding this "Factory Finds" promotion.

Just to remind everyone, I have a bunch of legacy shapes from both Brooks Brothers and Southwick. We can easily do all of these models...

Madison
Fitzgerald
Regent
Milano
Cambridge

And of course, we can do any American or Canadian-made Hickey Freeman models.

The 15% discount on our Factory Finds fabrics ends on Tuesday. You'll want to use the code:

summer15

I've had a lot of customers DM'ing and emailing me about our promotion schedule. If you're in the market for some linen or warm weather tailored pieces, then these are the best fabrics for the lowest prices that we'll be able to offer. They're an excellent value.

I'm happy to work personally with any clients to find your sizing. If you're sure about a particular fabric but you need more time for sizing, I can also take your order and payment by Tuesday and block out the cloth for you. No problem to follow up with final sizing specs over the next week or so.

---------------------------------------------------

Ok, who is gettin' what?

Sportcoat wise, I think I have it figured out but I need to figure out some staple pants, too.
Glad you're seeing stuff that you dig! I can speak to what's sold since yesterday:

2 suits in Delfino Danube Blue Wool-Silk
1 Doyle, 1 Teba in Loro Piana Napoli Linen Check
3 pants & 1 sportcoat in Patchwork Madras
1 suit and 1 sportcoat in Dark Marine Linen Check
2 pants in Albini Deep Indigo
1 pant in Flax Irish Linen
1 Doyle and 1 Field Jacket in Olive Irish Linen Windowpane

Definitely off to a good start!

If you're looking for staple pants, I can add these into the list. Khaki and Navy Peachskin cotton are seriously the best khaki & navy trouser cottons that we've ever offered.

I've listed them a few times. The do aight online because these images can't really convey how nice the cloth is. But I routinely sell them to people who make in-person appointments. They are AMAZING. I don't have a whole lot left, so I tend to just show them to people at my studio as a special opportunity for guys who visit.

Base price for them is $375 (like the linen), but I can do 15% off that for $318. They're totally machine washable.
 

clee1982

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I don’t even remember what’s the difference between Milano and Cambridge, side vent vs center vent but equally slim otherwise?
 

Epaulet

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The Cambridge was Southwick's take on the Thom Browne sack jackets for BB. It's cropped, slim lapels, high armholes, slim sleeves. Hook vent in the back.

Milano is a more conventional slim and slightly cropped jacket. Double rear vents. Similar in vibe to the J.Crew Ludlow jackets.

We do our own versions of these shapes as well, namely the Princeton Sack Jacket & Nuovo Jacket. I think that our designs are more in keeping with the overall style of SF, but we can certainly make the Cambridge or Milano for anyone who prefers those. Or we can take your sizing in the Cambridge or Milano and translate it to our own shapes.
 

smittycl

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The Cambridge was Southwick's take on the Thom Browne sack jackets for BB. It's cropped, slim lapels, high armholes, slim sleeves. Hook vent in the back.

Milano is a more conventional slim and slightly cropped jacket. Double rear vents. Similar in vibe to the J.Crew Ludlow jackets.

We do our own versions of these shapes as well, namely the Princeton Sack Jacket & Nuovo Jacket. I think that our designs are more in keeping with the overall style of SF, but we can certainly make the Cambridge or Milano for anyone who prefers those. Or we can take your sizing in the Cambridge or Milano and translate it to our own shapes.
I have one remaining BB suit. A Cambridge fit (from Lardini) in brown Donegal wool. Winter work horse for me. I found Milano to be too slim and short but the Fitzgerald cut was nice. Kinda miss that one.
 

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