The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[dddrees]

Thoughts on these watches, the Haldimann H9 and H10.

H9:



H10:




Talk about jumping the shark! These are something you get after you have EVERYTHING else.

Too unconventual, and it would draw too much unwanted attention for me to ever seriously consider it.

 

[in stitches]

great post, apropos. JLC is as good as it gets when it comes to enameling and engraving. unreal craftsmanship.

 

[dddrees]

I am pretty sure JLC does its enamelling in-house at Le Sentier - at least I am sure they do so for peinture sur émail (painted enamel) - which is led by the incomparable Miklos Merczel. Cannot speak for whether their cloisonne work is outsourced.

I think the other big house that led the way for in-house enamelling is VC, but I am not sure if that is a current thing with them.

For the benefit of everyone else here are some examples in lieu of a lengthy explanation as to why I rate the JLC enamelworks very highly. Remember this is all done in vitreous (as in glass) enamel - everything is done with the consideration that the end product has to survive being fired in a jeweler's kiln.



This is not widely known, but only gold cases can have vitreous enamel applied to them. Steel JLCs have epoxy resins applied to them and are then baked at a much lower temperatures. Which is nice in its own way, but not quite at the same level as vitreous enamel in terms of depth, beauty or difficulty. Thankfully not cost either though.

Your friendly neighbourhood JLC boutique or AD is likely to refer to either process as "enameling", and while a little misleading they are not technically wrong - one is vitreous enameling, the other cold enameling.

Sometimes they more accurately refer to the process for steel JLCs as "lacquering". This is cold enamel:


I wish you all the very best with your venture, and will keep an eye on your marque!

That's actually a pretty good (if crazy) idea, but I sadly don't print money...

Anyway, since I'm on a bit of a didactic roll, here are some examples of engraving on JLCs... I'll leave it up to you guys to decide who does the finer work.

JLC Le Sentier:



J.C. Randell:


Have you checked out the new 2013 JLC Master Perpetual Calendar? Would be interested in your thoughts about its "balance".

Wow, now these are just simply gorgeous.

I've had the opportunity to see some watches with enameling on them, and they've just blown my socks off.

Thanks for posting these.

 

[no frills]

Anyway, since I'm on a bit of a didactic roll, here are some examples of engraving on JLCs... I'll leave it up to you guys to decide who does the finer work.

Wow. These are really beautiful. Thanks for posting these!

 

[Newcomer]



Have you checked out the new 2013 JLC Master Perpetual Calendar? Would be interested in your thoughts about its "balance".

Ahhh how apropos, just finished reading SJX's little blurb on the piece:

http://www.watchesbysjx.com/2013/03/photo-essay-jlc-master-calendar-sihh.html

Now a picture for reference:

I think this is a perfect example of what I mean by "balance." I feel like on this watch, to use the same analogy, we have a east-west of "1", and a north-south of "3". By including the arabic numerals, the JLC name, and the day / month subdials, there is a nice balance to the moonphase.

I think that this is one of the most beautiful aspects of the original Master Reserve de Marche. With some pieces, JLC really manages to hit it out of the park.

The inclusion of the arabic 9 and the applied marker on the "northwest" part of the dial somehow provides balance to the asymmetrical dial, and it does so in an undeniably quirky way. Unfortunately, some of that quirkiness is lost in the newer model in my opinion, which is a bit unfortunate.

 

[Newcomer]

Also apropos, thanks for the pictures, very cool.

And Kungpapa--I like the original Haldimann you posted, but the most recent version... not so much. Regardless, I would worry about service down the road.

Finally, frills--I do not think I said it in the first post, but that is one hell of a beautiful watch. If you ever think of adopting, I would be more than willing to be an adult adoptee.

 

[Kaplan]



^ That one has a slight Manara vibe

Spoiler: More Milo

 

[in stitches]

^^ oh my ! THAT is watch pr0n ^^

Ahhh how apropos, just finished reading SJX's little blurb on the piece:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

http://www.watchesbysjx.com/2013/03/photo-essay-jlc-master-calendar-sihh.html
Now a picture for reference:

I think this is a perfect example of what I mean by "balance." I feel like on this watch, to use the same analogy, we have a east-west of "1", and a north-south of "3". By including the arabic numerals, the JLC name, and the day / month subdials, there is a nice balance to the moonphase.
I think that this is one of the most beautiful aspects of the original Master Reserve de Marche. With some pieces, JLC really manages to hit it out of the park.

The inclusion of the arabic 9 and the applied marker on the "northwest" part of the dial somehow provides balance to the asymmetrical dial, and it does so in an undeniably quirky way. Unfortunately, some of that quirkiness is lost in the newer model in my opinion, which is a bit unfortunate.

sidebar - if you can look at these pictures, and not fall in love with watches, you need your head examined.

 

[Dino944]

But here's the thing: I've stated my clear preference for the 3940 versus the 5140. I feel that the relative proportions of the case size and subdial letterings for the 3940 work better than the 5140 (photo from Mech at PuristSpro):




I think the larger letterings work for the 5040 (which I have too), but because of the unique tonneau shape:







But what really comes across as a bit "off" to me about the 5140 is that squished up "27" in the date/moonphase subdial:




Which, interestingly enough, does NOT show up in the 5136/1J, despite the smaller case size (36/37mm versus the 5140's 39mm) and the larger letters in the other subdials:

I know I may be acting a bit unnecessarily nitpicky about this, and if someone wants to give me a 5140P for free I'm happy to own it.

Just wanted to share my nitpicky thoughts with you folks.

IMHO each of those pieces is beautiful and their respective dials/fonts work well for each of them. Whenever a company puts a movement from a smaller watch into a larger case they have to do something to compensate and the subdials or date windows etc from looking like they are set too close to the center of the watch. Hence, sometimes hour markers get larger as they do at the 3 & 9 on the 5140 (compared to the smaller markers at 3& 9 on the 3940). I think if they had stuck with smaller font it would have seemed out of proportion to the new larger case and dial, and then it might create a somewhat stark or barren looking dial.

I agree the Tonneau case seems ideally suited for larger font. Its a very unusual case, especially for Patek. I more commonly see that case shape (or variety of case shapes associated with VC and Cartier). While the Tonneau is still dressy, I find its a bit more relaxed and whimsical than the expected round Patek. I think its a case shape that is very under appreciated and I admire your choice of going with something thats so different from their signature round cases.

As for the squished 5 and 27, I can understand your not liking it. Although, I think they handled it quite well, and IMHO its much nicer looking than when they cut out part of a number on the 5059. Just my 2 cents. Always great seeing photos of your perpetual calendars.

 

[mimo]

Agree with the Stitchmeister above.

Going back to the "five watches, one maker" discussion, I think my greedy face could find five things I desire from most decent makers. Certainly all of the traditional "big three" make or have made enough to make a "collection" in their own right - were I wealthy and extravagant enough - and looking at Frilly's insane PP collection makes me drool.

But in terms of balance and design (and of course it's always going to be in the eye of the beholder), reading through this thread and then countless other pictures, reviews and advertisements, has pointed me firmly at two others: A Lange (again, very much a rich man's habit I'm sure), and Jaeger Le Coultre (rich enough, but perhaps more realistic for more people). I actually find their complicated piece quite similar in philosophy sometimes - either very symmetrical in proportion, or very deliberately asymmetrical, with a subtle balancing compensation.

Everyone has their thing, and every maker probably makes something I think is beautiful. But JLC strikes my ignorant brain as being very special design within the realms of realistic attainment.

 

[Mr. Moo]

 

[hanskl]

I reread my earlier reply, which I find now to be rather brusque. I apologise as that was not my intent, but typing on a phone is hell.

Anyway, with a gold linen finish dial like that I would stick with dark non-brown colours - black, navy, dark green. I would go large reptile. I don't think there is a way to successfully "casualise" or "sportify" this watch if that is what you are looking for.
Nice!! Oh man. My wife to be would kill me if I ever surprised her with a perpetual calendar.

Don't worry about it, I appreciate all help I can get. I think I want to "casualise" it at least a little bit, and I was also thinking that adding a gator strap would be nice.

I thought a mid-brown/tan gator strap would be nice.. You don't think the colors would play well together? Would a black gator be better?

 

[in stitches]

lookin good, moo.

 

[DLJr]

Agree with the Stitchmeister above.

Going back to the "five watches, one maker" discussion, I think my greedy face could find five things I desire from most decent makers. Certainly all of the traditional "big three" make or have made enough to make a "collection" in their own right - were I wealthy and extravagant enough - and looking at Frilly's insane PP collection makes me drool.

But in terms of balance and design (and of course it's always going to be in the eye of the beholder), reading through this thread and then countless other pictures, reviews and advertisements, has pointed me firmly at two others: A Lange (again, very much a rich man's habit I'm sure), and Jaeger Le Coultre (rich enough, but perhaps more realistic for more people). I actually find their complicated piece quite similar in philosophy sometimes - either very symmetrical in proportion, or very deliberately asymmetrical, with a subtle balancing compensation.

Everyone has their thing, and every maker probably makes something I think is beautiful. But JLC strikes my ignorant brain as being very special design within the realms of realistic attainment.

+100. I need more monies so I don't have to decide between JLC models.

 

[RogerP]

Terrific wrist shot of that Speedy, Moo.