Arterton - Official Affiliate Thread: Signature Garment Bag, Yearn Shoemaker, Nakata Hanger, Clothes Doctor, Dismantlable Umbrella

[prof.contingency]

Hi guys, we've got a new shoe care guide series coming out, and I thought I would share it here with the Styleforum folks first. Mr. Anders Sundstrom is our presenter; some of you may know him already, as he is a Swedish Shoeshining Champion.

In the series, we outline some general shoe care tips, as well as introduce some specific Paul Brunngard products, as some of them are new tools that aren't readily known. For example, the Sole Edge Iron is the enthusiast's take on the hot iron that shoemakers use.

Please subscribe to our new Youtube channel, if it interests you!

The Sole Edge Iron


Cleaning vs Polishing Shoe Brushes

 

[prof.contingency]

Got an interesting video for you guys, this time. We call it "The Sounds of Shoe Care", with Anders brushing and polishing away!

 

[prof.contingency]

Some recent hand-welted Yearn shoes we've made up for some very happy clients.


Yearn LOF 51D1


Yearn 593


And Yearn on Morning Swedish TV:

 

[prof.contingency]

We did a photoshoot with Mr. Jeremy Hackett aka Mr. Classic last week, as we make the hangers, valet stands, and garment bags for their bespoke division. We shot using a Hasseblad Phase One medium format camera. Here are some behind the scene photos:

 

[prof.contingency]

One of our clients has taken the time to produce this wonderfully entertaining video review of the Yearn Balmoral Oxford. There are some beautiful shots, and Chris is very well-informed on how the shoe is constructed.

Since Chris has made such a great effort in the video, it would be amiss if I didn't do my best to help share it.

 

[prof.contingency]

Sharing some of our latest design developments: For one of our new OEM wholesale garment bag patterns, we've incorporated a heavy-duty popper, which keeps the hanger "hung" even when the bag is in use. This way the suit doesn't fall to the bottom and become wrinkled during transit. We only make these bags for the trade (e.g. Savile Row, designer brands).

 

[prof.contingency]

A recent video on the Paul Brunngard Aristic Cream. Anders explains what it used for and how it is used.

 

[prof.contingency]

Hi guys, I thought I would share with you some of the new styles from Yearn. We are in the process of having these listed on our website. Custom commissions can be sought by contacting us on our website or live chat, of course.

Yearn 2 Eyelet Derby (DER121)




Yearn OXF 777


Yearn OXF212

 

[LA Guy]

I have a pair of the Yearns. Can definitely say that they are definitely an excellent shoe and especially for the money and especially in 2023. In terrible at taking pictures, but will bring them out and see if anything reasonable comes out a bit later. Always on the look out for newer to me makers. The owner of the brand is in this thread. Can we get some comments on their particular process, leathers, etc…?

 

[ericgereghty]

Assume yes, but any folks here have the various Nakata hangers? Particularly the AUT-05 (set of 3) suit hangers and AUT-11 trouser hangers?

The fancier suit hangers are gorgeous, but too slim for me.

The shirt hangers are pretty straightforward. Not inexpensive (not a critique), but honestly one of the few shirt hangers (aside from VERY cheap, far lower quality options) I've seen with curved arms.

Total aside, but @prof.contingency is there a difference (aside from color, of course) between the AUT-09 and Signature shirt hangers? Neither good nor bad, my brain processes "signature" as being superior, though they're actually cheaper on a per hanger basis. Obviously an extremely nominal cost difference, but was curious enough that I thought I'd ask.

 

[prof.contingency]

Assume yes, but any folks here have the various Nakata hangers? Particularly the AUT-05 (set of 3) suit hangers and AUT-11 trouser hangers?

The fancier suit hangers are gorgeous, but too slim for me.

The shirt hangers are pretty straightforward. Not inexpensive (not a critique), but honestly one of the few shirt hangers (aside from VERY cheap, far lower quality options) I've seen with curved arms.

Total aside, but @prof.contingency is there a difference (aside from color, of course) between the AUT-09 and Signature shirt hangers? Neither good nor bad, my brain processes "signature" as being superior, though they're actually cheaper on a per hanger basis. Obviously an extremely nominal cost difference, but was curious enough that I thought I'd ask.

Hi Eric, great question about the difference between the Signature Shirt Hanger and the AUT-09. It all comes down to the intended purpose and, indeed, the audience.

The Signature Shirt Hanger is meant for the interior decor market and thus, there is a focus on the "design" element. For example, the colour is a bit more special and hence, the name "Signature". We make quite a few of these for people's homes, hotels, and, sometimes, yachts.

The Nakata AUT-09 is meant more for the bespoke/classic menswear audience. They both have curved arms, but the AUT-09 has a greater curve. So, one difference is the curve. The other principle difference is the shape of the head of the hanger but this is merely aesthetic rather than functional (at least when it comes to shirting).




You also mention the AUT-05 suit hangers. These are by far our most popular set. Again, the AUT series aims at the bespoke/classic menswear audience, as opposed as to interior decorators. I'll let others jump in, if they have comments on how they got along with the AUT-05. Just FYI, about half the Savile Row houses now use the AUT-05.

 

[ericgereghty]

Hi Eric, great question about the difference between the Signature Shirt Hanger and the AUT-09. It all comes down to the intended purpose and, indeed, the audience.

The Signature Shirt Hanger is meant for the interior decor market and thus, there is a focus on the "design" element. For example, the colour is a bit more special and hence, the name "Signature". We make quite a few of these for people's homes, hotels, and, sometimes, yachts.

The Nakata AUT-09 is meant more for the bespoke/classic menswear audience. They both have curved arms, but the AUT-09 has a greater curve. So, one difference is the curve. The other principle difference is the shape of the head of the hanger but this is merely aesthetic rather than functional (at least when it comes to shirting).

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You also mention the AUT-05 suit hangers. These are by far our most popular set. Again, the AUT series aims at the bespoke/classic menswear audience, as opposed as to interior decorators. I'll let others jump in, if they have comments on how they got along with the AUT-05. Just FYI, about half the Savile Row houses now use the AUT-05.

Makes sense. Appreciate the insights. It is somewhat curious how few "nice" hanger makers (admittedly, there aren't a ton to begin with) make hangers with curved arms. I wonder if this is customer catering, in that the straight armed hangers simply sell better?

 

[prof.contingency]

Makes sense. Appreciate the insights. It is somewhat curious how few "nice" hanger makers (admittedly, there aren't a ton to begin with) make hangers with curved arms. I wonder if this is customer catering, in that the straight armed hangers simply sell better?

@ericgereghty Yay, I think I can effectively speak to this one! When buying timber (in this case, Beechwood), they come in relatively standardised shapes -- imagine long rectangular logs. These are then processed, cut, and dissected into smaller manageable blocks. The exact size will differ by manufacturer.

However, the very same block will yield a much lower quantity of hangers with a curved design than a non-curved design. This increases the cost of production and lowers economies of scale. However, we know that a curved hanger is superior (especially suits) since it emulates the natural human curvature.

Some manufacturers can quite literally stamp out a bazillion wooden hangers, whilst Nakata would carefully select each block to see what can be made of them.

 

[PartagasIV]

Just found you gentlemen and my first thought was, 'this is what Kirby Allison's mother thinks he does.'

Not to be crass, but I'm assuming it's just Shopify software that isn't coded for VAT deduction estimates for shipping to the States--is my best best to email/call an order in for that to work?

 

[prof.contingency]

Just found you gentlemen and my first thought was, 'this is what Kirby Allison's mother thinks he does.'

Not to be crass, but I'm assuming it's just Shopify software that isn't coded for VAT deduction estimates for shipping to the States--is my best best to email/call an order in for that to work?

Hi @PartagasIV , I glad that you found us!

Prices that are shown to users browsing from outside the USA already have VAT deducted. For example, the Signature Garment Bag is £90 with VAT and £75 without.

If your prices are not deducting further on checkout, then that's because thats already the VAT free price. Usually, the system is quite good at this, especially if you proceed all the way to the final checkout screen. But if you are having problems, feel free to PM here and I'll help you personally. Or feel free to email us.