The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, May 20, 2007.

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  1. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Meh. The "subdials" on the other model are plastic - total reject as far as I'm concerned. Also she has no buttocks, is too thin, doesn't appear to have a top lip, and bears a disturbing resemblance to Tom Cruise. Frankly, Der Vaterland can do better.

    And does. There's no silicon in a Lange. You can quote me on that. :)
     


  2. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Super long post, took time to read through every reply over the last week instead of skimming through photos!!
    I... see what you did there. :spew:
    Something like that is IMO a watch someone gets when he has "completed" his watch collection (sport, dress, rectangular, vintage, etc) and just needs that last thing to round things up nicely. ~ B ~ raises quite a few good points. Reliability and serviceability were the first things I thought as well. Red apples are not the same as green apples I know but medtech_expat has posted here about the problems he experienced with his FP Journes, which apparently eventually precipitated his movement away from the marque.
    Thank you. I would post more photos of R, but it's having... stuff done to it now (good stuff). :hide:
    I reread my earlier reply, which I find now to be rather brusque. I apologise as that was not my intent, but typing on a phone is hell. Anyway, with a gold linen finish dial like that I would stick with dark non-brown colours - black, navy, dark green. I would go large reptile. I don't think there is a way to successfully "casualise" or "sportify" this watch if that is what you are looking for.
    Nice!! Oh man. My wife to be would kill me if I ever surprised her with a perpetual calendar.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2013


  3. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Senior member

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    ^

    Thanks apropos, People forget that Vacheron got big in the 19th century by basically pioneering machine made watch production, thus allowing greater serviceability and reliability of watches, through tighter tolerances and parts availability. Prior to this, watches were benchmade essentially like a bespoke shoe is now. But a fiddleback sole is cheaper to make by hand than a balance cock for example.

    Likewise with the Americans and Swiss during the machine-made/hand-made wars of the latter half of the 19th century.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2013


  4. ~ B ~

    ~ B ~ Senior member

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    Well JLC and Patek to my knowledge both get their enamel dials done by the same workshop in Europe, as do almost all Swiss/German watch brands. From what I have seen comparing the two workshops in Switzerland and Beijing, the Chinese one uses thinner gold wire, thus yielding finer detail. Ultimately, it depends on the painting chosen on whether this quality is apparent to the naked eye and loupe.

    Personally I think a resonance watch is rather pointless, so never thought of making or buying one.

    Well Lange and Glashuette tradition itself learnt the use of chatons from the British who used them in movements a century before the Germans. Lange themselves admit that with synthetic rubies now, the chatons serve only a decorative function, as do mechanical watches in general. And I do think my watch is more traditional than thoroughly modern, with the likes of Urwerk and De Bethune occupying the latter category.

    No please, give all the feedback you can! I truly appreciate it as that is the only way we can improve. I will be using actual celadon and Yixing clay as a dial in my watches and will be sourcing this from the fourth-generation artisan who makes my handmade tea ware, which is then shipped to the north of China to be assembled in the watches. Lacquer will be a possibility as well in future. I have discussed this with the makers and it is no problem.

    MOP is a cinch, it has been done in watches costing 200 USD even. Fine porcelain has also already been done by the makers working for me - I think the result is incredible.

    My intention all along was to tie Chinese watchmaking with other ancient fine traditions like marquetry as you mentioned, porcelain ware, ink and brush painting and poetry et al. China has a long history of watch and clock making stretching back 600 years, and the modern history began in 1955 with four old watchmakers assembling a single piece freehand with no prior designs in a little room in Tianjin.

    Also, I wanted to add that the watches shown above are my own personal watches commissioned with the maker. While I will be using these same movements in the watches of my CELADON brand, I wanted to test the watches firsthand and only if they pass my standards do they deserve a place in the pantheon of Maison CELADON.
     


  5. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Yep yep - agree 100%!

    On a related note there are those who complain about Patek using variations of the the cal. 240 in nearly every model in their current lineup, and in the vast majority of their models over the last 30 or so years from time only models to grand complications. They say that PP should be more like Lange - who IIRC case (or nearly case) 1 unique movement per watch model - i.e. every (or nearly every) model has a different movement.

    IMO, Lange's practice is good for perceived value and laying down trump cards in heated WIS discussions, but not so good if you're planning on keeping your watch for 30 years and more importantly - if reliability is a concern. I like the fact that PP keeps making incremental improvements to the cal. 240, attempting to perfect it instead of reinventing the wheel for every new model.

    Knock on wood, should PP go belly up I know there will be a ready supply of modules and parts for the base 240 calibre. Can't say that about Lange. Now magnify that potential issue a million times or so and you have the situation with most independents.

    I know I have said before that I would love a Dornblueth but that's really only because the vast majority carry (beautifully refinished) Unitas - easy to service, rock solid reliability. I nearly got a Quintus Klassik but on second thought I think I may have dodged a bullet. The only other true independent I would consider seriously - because I still have moments of temporary insanity - might be Roger Smith.
     


  6. Flake

    Flake Senior member

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    Not nearly as interesting as what I have seen in this thread lately (simple, but nicely decorated Unitas) but I like it, and it goes with what I am wearing today

    [​IMG]
     


  7. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    ^^ I really like that.
     


  8. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    So, are you having your SF avatar engraved on the back?
     


  9. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    This is a brilliant observation!
     


  10. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    You know, I do get your point. The "blank space" versus "busyness" aesthetic certainly represents a trade-off. Again, this is such a personal preference and I border on nitpicky. I think anyone would be fortunate to have either a 3940 or a 5140.
     


  11. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    Excellent point here about serviceability and availability of parts. I fully intend to keep my PPs alive for well past my own lifetime, so I want to stack the cards in favor of my kids being able to have them serviced in the future.
     


  12. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    My response to these assertions, dear mimo, is.... yes. [​IMG]
     


  13. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    Wow, thats a real cool idea.


    Both real good choices.

    I hope to see some pictures of these watches in the near future.
     


  14. no frills

    no frills Senior member

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    apropos, many thanks as always for the direct replies. Hehe. Well, you see my point about the rubber, but dddrees swears it's the most comfortable strap he's ever experienced. I have to confess that I actually haven't tried on an Aquanaut. Possibly hazardous to my wallet.

    RE: 5136/1J. She loves it. I guess that's the point of all this!
     


  15. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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    Ok, so I initially missed the joke.[​IMG]


    However I assure you, it has to be the most comfortable watch I have ever worn.
     


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