Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[suitforcourt]

Anyone here ever sent a pair of v cleats for recraft? Do you ask for a new v cleat heel? Which cobbler do you use? B Nelson says they can recraft the v cleat.

I have been eyeballing a few pairs on eBay for a while. Just letting the wallet swell a little first.

 

[M.Photog]

My experience is that French Shriner made very high quality shoes prior to the late 60's. After that, the quality slipped rapidly. Avoid the stuff with the french horn logo. The oldest stuff is marked French Shriner & Urner. Here is the logo in the early 60's
View attachment 822196

Here are black an tan pairs
View attachment 822197

The weight of the tan pair suggests how high the build quality is
View attachment 822198

My experience is that French Shriner made very high quality shoes prior to the late 60's. After that, the quality slipped rapidly. Avoid the stuff with the french horn logo. The oldest stuff is marked French Shriner & Urner. Here is the logo in the early 60's
View attachment 822196

Here are black an tan pairs
View attachment 822197

The weight of the tan pair suggests how high the build quality is
View attachment 822198

Thanks for the information. Mine are of the newer variety, I only paid $2 for them so don't feel so bad to have them as a bad weather shoe. They also don't weigh as much as yours. I'll have to be on the lookout for an older pair.

 

[madhat]

It's always amazing how much dirt you can pull out of suede using a rubber suede brush! I scrubbed on my "new" AE's last night and got them back to a nice even color.

 

[suitforcourt]

suitforcourtSenior member
What conditioner would the hive mind recommend for suede chukkas? Same as the one I apply for regular calf leather? Thanks

 

[mormonopoly]

suitforcourtSenior member
What conditioner would the hive mind recommend for suede chukkas? Same as the one I apply for regular calf leather? Thanks

Do not use conditioner on suede. Suede generally doesn't dry out nearly as bad as regular calf and doesn't need as much conditioning. If you do need to condition, apply the condition inside the shoe.

 

[meister]

1950s snuff suede spectators

 

[M.Photog]

It's always amazing how much dirt you can pull out of suede using a rubber suede brush! I scrubbed on my "new" AE's last night and got them back to a nice even color.

I've always avoided suede for that reason. Where did you get the brush?

 

[madhat]

I've always avoided suede for that reason. Where did you get the brush?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D1HU4N6/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's really not that high of an upkeep. I mean I can go at least 20 wears without doing anything to it, unless i get caught walking the streets in a downpour!

Suede is an awesome thing, and I love the variety of texture.

 

[eTrojan]

Vintage Mason Executive Imperials. These were my first gunboats. They're an A width, but fit more like a B; hence the extra thick socks today. Contemplating a sole insert so I can wear a proper sock with them.

 

[suitforcourt]

View attachment 823260 Vintage Mason Executive Imperials. These were my first gunboats. They're an A width, but fit more like a B; hence the extra thick socks today. Contemplating a sole insert so I can wear a proper sock with them.

I have same pair. One of my favourite stompers!

 

[ace13x]

The brush by itself is only $6.50 from AE.
http://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/s...583.html?dwvar_SF583_color=542#sz=18&start=28

A different brush with the eraser is $6.95:
http://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/s...557.html?dwvar_SF557_color=557#sz=18&start=23

But the latter you can typically find for around $4 (from Kiwi and others) in a Megastore.

 

[AHS]

Gentleman, a question for you....

I've been wearing my vintage florshiem longwings for several years, but was thinking about picking up a pair of Alden longwings in tan calf or shell.

How would my vintage USA made florsheim imperial lonwings compare with today's' Aldens? Judging by photos, perhaps a pair of Aldens (1/2 size smaller for the Barrie last) would appear a bit wider than the florsheims? Is the medallion, brouging, and construction similar? Quality of craftsmanship? Etc...

Thanks in advance for your thoughts...

AHS

 

[madhat]

Gentleman, a question for you....

I've been wearing my vintage florshiem longwings for several years, but was thinking about picking up a pair of Alden longwings in tan calf or shell.

How would my vintage USA made florsheim imperial lonwings compare with today's' Aldens? Judging by photos, perhaps a pair of Aldens (1/2 size smaller for the Barrie last) would appear a bit wider than the florsheims? Is the medallion, brouging, and construction similar? Quality of craftsmanship? Etc...

Thanks in advance for your thoughts...

AHS

I'll let others chime with a larger sample size, but my late 70s Hanovers (similar construction to Florsheim of period) would be pretty close to current Aldens. Both weigh about the same. If you've found the right fit in the Florsheim you might not need to down size in the Barrie. My Hanovers fit larger than AE 65 or Alden Plaza like my Barrie last. @smfdoc I believe wears 11EEE in his Florsheim and Alden Barrie last longwings

 

[smfdoc]

I'll let others chime with a larger sample size, but my late 70s Hanovers (similar construction to Florsheim of period) would be pretty close to current Aldens. Both weigh about the same. If you've found the right fit in the Florsheim you might not need to down size in the Barrie. My Hanovers fit larger than AE 65 or Alden Plaza like my Barrie last. @smfdoc I believe wears 11EEE in his Florsheim and Alden Barrie last longwings

Yep. I wear the same size in both the Florsheim and the Alden on the Barrie last. The Alden is a little more rounded and the Florsheim is a little more pointed front. I had the Florsheim first and could not justify the Alden duplication, right up to the point that I was offered a great deal on some new Alden's and then I had to have both.

 

[AHS]

Thanks @madhat. That's helpful. I wear an 11 d on the vintage florsheims and tried on an Alden longwing in a 10.5 d. That felt and looked right to me.

@smfdoc and the others who wear Aldens and vintage florsheims, how would you compare the two in terms of look and craftsmanship?

@davidVC - may I make a plug for your next vcleat article? The Florsheim 93605 vs the Alden 975. Head-to-head matchup. Like Mayweather vs Mcgregor. Same amount of hype. Less potential blood shedding...

AHS