Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[smfdoc]

Thanks @madhat. That's helpful. I wear an 11 d on the vintage florsheims and tried on an Alden longwing in a 10.5 d. That felt and looked right to me.

@smfdoc and the others who wear Aldens and vintage florsheims, how would you compare the two in terms of look and craftsmanship?

@davidVC - may I make a plug for your next vcleat article? The Florsheim 93605 vs the Alden 975. Head-to-head matchup. Like Mayweather vs Mcgregor. Same amount of hype. Less potential blood shedding...

AHS

I just mentioned comparisons of looks between the two. The build quality, in my mind, are very comparable. The Florsheim shell of that era was the equal to any shoe I have experienced. I am sure there are some terrific shoes today for mega bucks, but it is high in its class.

 

[AHS]

@smfdoc - sorry for the cross post

 

[davidVC]

Thanks @madhat. That's helpful. I wear an 11 d on the vintage florsheims and tried on an Alden longwing in a 10.5 d. That felt and looked right to me.

@smfdoc and the others who wear Aldens and vintage florsheims, how would you compare the two in terms of look and craftsmanship?

@davidVC - may I make a plug for your next vcleat article? The Florsheim 93605 vs the Alden 975. Head-to-head matchup. Like Mayweather vs Mcgregor. Same amount of hype. Less potential blood shedding...

AHS

Done but as a preview I typically wear a 11.5 D or 12 C in Florsheim Kenmoor and 11 D in Alden Barrie. But I have had Florsheim pairs that my feet swim in those same sizes. Especially the Florsheim shoes from the 60s and early 70s. I have had a couple 11.5 C Florsheim fit me well and others that are unwearable. Is this a result of mass production of hand lasted shoes? Maybe.

Alden sizing seems more consistent.

 

[smfdoc]

Alden on top and the Florsheim on the bottom.

 

[cc808314]

Yep. I wear the same size in both the Florsheim and the Alden on the Barrie last. The Alden is a little more rounded and the Florsheim is a little more pointed front. I had the Florsheim first and could not justify the Alden duplication, right up to the point that I was offered a great deal on some new Alden's and then I had to have both.

Duplication? There is no such thing. They are all different, at least to me

Alden 975, 2 x AE MacNeil, Florsheim 93605, Freeman Bootmaker Guild (all burgundy shell).

@AHS as far as fit goes, the 93605s are 8.5C but I also have the calf versions in 8D and 8.5B. 8.5C is the preferred size. AE MacNeils are 8.5C, but they do fit slightly narrower than Florsheims. Aldens are 7.5D, but 8C might be a better fit.

As for quality, I think Florsheims are about th same as Aldens, followed by AE. Based on my limited experience, I would rate the various brands in the following order:
1) Vtg Nettleton Traditionals
2) Vtg Florsheim/Alden
3) AE
4) Vtg Hanover

As for aesthetics, both Florsheim and AE MacNeil have pointier toe. However, the wing on the former is more balanced. Alden really stands out from the rest of the pack. The toe box is significantly wider and the shoe looks pretty clunky.

 

[polojock615]

Duplication? There is no such thing. They are all different, at least to me

Alden 975, 2 x AE MacNeil, Florsheim 93605, Freeman Bootmaker Guild (all burgundy shell).

View attachment 824265

@AHS as far as fit goes, the 93605s are 8.5C but I also have the calf versions in 8D and 8.5B. 8.5C is the preferred size. AE MacNeils are 8.5C, but they do fit slightly narrower than Florsheims. Aldens are 7.5D, but 8C might be a better fit.

As for quality, I think Florsheims are about th same as Aldens, followed by AE. Based on my limited experience, I would rate the various brands in the following order:
1) Vtg Nettleton Traditionals
2) Vtg Florsheim/Alden
3) AE
4) Vtg Hanover

As for aesthetics, both Florsheim and AE MacNeil have pointier toe. However, the wing on the former is more balanced. Alden really stands out from the rest of the pack. The toe box is significantly wider and the shoe looks pretty clunky.

Why 2x AE?

 

[cc808314]

Why 2x AE?

The color is quite different between the two. One is similar to Alden's color 8, and the other is more brownish burgundy with somewhat contrasting panels.

 

[Dicky Dicardo]

As for quality, I think Florsheims are about th same as Aldens, followed by AE. Based on my limited experience, I would rate the various brands in the following order:
1) Vtg Nettleton Traditionals
2) Vtg Florsheim/Alden
3) AE
4) Vtg Hanover

+1 for the Nettleton; definitely an under appreciated brand (if you go back far enough)

 

[Dicky Dicardo]

The brush by itself is only $6.50 from AE.
http://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/s...583.html?dwvar_SF583_color=542#sz=18&start=28

A different brush with the eraser is $6.95:
http://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/s...557.html?dwvar_SF557_color=557#sz=18&start=23

But the latter you can typically find for around $4 (from Kiwi and others) in a Megastore.

This is the one I have. I don't have much suede, so I don't have enough experience to to say much about it. Nor do I have a brush, so I have nothing to compare it to. It's a sticky rubber and you can see the dirt it picks up. Apparently, it excels with nubuck; where some brushes can damage nubuck.

https://www.footfitter.com/footfitter-large-crepe-brush-for-suede-and-nubuck

 

[suitforcourt]

+1 for the Nettleton; definitely an under appreciated brand (if you go back far enough)

I have a pair of vintage Nettletons that are made in USA. I would say the leather is better than vintage Florsheim and arguably similar craftsmanship.

 

[ace13x]

This is the one I have. I don't have much suede, so I don't have enough experience to to say much about it. Nor do I have a brush, so I have nothing to compare it to. It's a sticky rubber and you can see the dirt it picks up. Apparently, it excels with nubuck; where some brushes can damage nubuck.

https://www.footfitter.com/footfitter-large-crepe-brush-for-suede-and-nubuck

Thanks. I had seen one like that before and wanted to try it out, but I lost the link. The eraser works really well, but you have to clean up eraser crumbs afterward.

 

[Dicky Dicardo]

Thanks. I had seen one like that before and wanted to try it out, but I lost the link. The eraser works really well, but you have to clean up eraser crumbs afterward.

Anyone have some vintage Hush Puppies to post?

 

[willyto]

A while ago I sent a message on Vcleat website saying I would try the Glycerin treatment on my shoes and boots. Today I'm showing a pair of boots (When I bought them they were sold as 1920s) I cleaned up and conditioned(Lexol Deep Cleaner, Lexol Conditioner, Glycerin treatment, Cadillac shoe conditioner then Saphir shoe cream and Saphir wax). They had a lot of black polish on them and some straw remains.

I suppose I could have gone for a brighter shine in the toes but I was a bit lazy and want to bring them to the cobbler to get the heels replaced and a toppy added to not wear the original sole out which has a closed channel stitching. They have a purple leather lining but I forgot to take a picture so I will show it in the future when I do more things to them. No brand and no size markins anywhere to be found. I think these might have been made by a bespoke shoemaker.

They have the softest and most flexible leather of all shoes I've ever handled, it just can't wrinkle, except for the areas of the shoe which have stiffeners I can crush all the shoe without problem. I love it.

Spoiler: More pictures

 

[TheHeathen]

I recently acquired a pair of Florsheim 96302 5 nail V-Cleat that has a textured finish. I have never used Bick 4. I presume that the "for smooth leather" means no suede/nubuck and that it will work fine on these as well as my pebble Mac Neil's?

Thanks guys for your assistance.

 

[smfdoc]

A while ago I sent a message on Vcleat website saying I would try the Glycerin treatment on my shoes and boots. Today I'm showing a pair of boots (When I bought them they were sold as 1920s) I cleaned up and conditioned(Lexol Deep Cleaner, Lexol Conditioner, Glycerin treatment, Cadillac shoe conditioner then Saphir shoe cream and Saphir wax). They had a lot of black polish on them and some straw remains.

I suppose I could have gone for a brighter shine in the toes but I was a bit lazy and want to bring them to the cobbler to get the heels replaced and a toppy added to not wear the original sole out which has a closed channel stitching. They have a purple leather lining but I forgot to take a picture so I will show it in the future when I do more things to them. No brand and no size markins anywhere to be found. I think these might have been made by a bespoke shoemaker.

They have the softest and most flexible leather of all shoes I've ever handled, it just can't wrinkle, except for the areas of the shoe which have stiffeners I can crush all the shoe without problem. I love it.

Spoiler: More pictures

Great job on the boots and welcome to the thread.