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The Bespoke Shoes Thread

jerrybrowne

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I thought this could be a good place to share design ideas. What do you have planned for next year? So far;

1. Brown subtly textured George boot with buckle in a soft leather, possibly baby llama if it can be sourced. 1 1/2 sole. Based on these;




2. Brown or chestnut loafer, mid length vamp also in a soft leather. Single sole. Identical to these;




3. Same as above in brown suede.



4. Chocolate brown captoe derby in boxcalf with subtle broguing. Double sole. (already in production) Based on these;

 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I like the George boots.

Who are you going to for the loafers? Cleverley? Recently saw someone with some black penny loafers from Cleverley and they looked nice.

Thinking about ordering something from Fosters next year. Maybe a butterfly loafer, a la RJ de Man. Or this swoopy looking brogue.



There's also a RTW Northampton maker that's rolling out a new MTO program where you can design any shoe you want, although you're limited to their lasts. Price is more affordable than bespoke, which is nice, and I think they make great RTW shoes. I've been asked not to mention their name until they make the announcement, but I'm hoping to get some kind of boot from them. Just don't know the design.
 

bengal-stripe

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Just bought two alligator hides, matte, 28 cm wide for a pair of whole-cut Albert slippers, but for street wear: longer vamp, welted (or maybe blind-welted) soles.





Similar to EG "Bamford" (without the medallion)



Currently at he closer, hopefully I will have the shoes come April/May.
 

jerrybrowne

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Going with Cleverley for the loafers (having them reproduce the Navy crup pair in the photo that I received last year) and JLSJ for the boots.

Those brogues are pretty damn nice and a Fosters signature style. The butterfly loafers would also be nice. Do you know if they are elasticized at the instep?
 

jerrybrowne

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Just bought two alligator hides, matte, 28 cm wide for a pair of whole-cut Albert slippers, but for street wear: longer vamp, welted (or maybe blind-welted) soles.

Currently at he closer, hopefully I will have the shoes come April/May.

Those hides are beautiful and I'm sure the shoes will turn out very well. The longer vamp is a nice touch. Mind sharing the source for the skins?
 

bengal-stripe

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Those hides are beautiful................Mind sharing the source for the skins?

They came through a UK agent from an Italian tannery (but I don't know which one).

Due to CITES regulations, I have to get them from the EU; importing them from outside is far too complicated (at least for me).
 

jerrybrowne

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Thanks to Bengal, DWF and ntempleman for the reverse calf advice. I am going through the details for the "suede" loafer I am commissioning that are based on the navy crup pair shown in post #1 above.

@bengal-stripe
@DWFII
@ntempleman
@shoefan

I am thinking of increasing the height of the sides of the loafers 1/8 inch to minimize a problem I am having where the sides of the shoe bow out due to the "seat up" insoles. The built in arch support pushes the sides of the shoes out, and I believe a taller side will minimize this. Also I think that increasing the height on the sides will improve the look of the shoe. For example, on the Navy pair, there is too much space between the tongue and the sides as shown here;



Basically, I'd like them to look more like the spacing on these loafers



You think this will cause some fit issues? Any other unforseen problems? TIA guys.
 
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ntempleman

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@jerrybrowne

A higher quarter line wouldn't be a bad thing at all. I think you'll probably still have the problem of the side blowing out from the insole though, it's always going to happen on a casual when you have a bit of insole designed to be weight bearing just floating there against the side of the shoe. The facings of a shoe or boot can mitigate the issue but you don't gave that luxury on a slip on.

I'm personally not a fan of an insole up in waist, I've never seen it offer any more support than a long inside heel stiffener provides and that avoids any blowing issues because it's secured inside the quarters. Some swear by them though, and have some success with it.

If I were a gambling man, I'd put a pound on your first order being a lace up with the insole support followed by the later casual pair and the order details simply copied from one ticket to the next.
 

Monty L

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I'm hoping to get my hands on some zug for a Galway style veldschoen boot since I missed the boat last year on those.

Also thinking of going back to Foster & son for their bespoke "Thomas" brogues in dark brown reverse calf.

IF it's not too much upcharge there's been an EG oundle style bespoke single monk in russian reindeer from cleverley popping into mind a lot lately too.
 

CraigC

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Close to some midnight blue Asquith on the 888 last

 
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bengal-stripe

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I am thinking of increasing the height of the sides of the loafers 1/8 inch to minimize a problem I am having where the sides of the shoe bow out due to the "seat up" insoles. The built in arch support pushes the sides of the shoes out, and I believe a taller side will minimize this. Also I think that increasing the height on the sides will improve the look of the shoe. For example, on the Navy pair, there is too much space between the tongue and the sides as shown here;

Your extra raised arch-support on a “casual” (loafer) keeps me puzzled.

I’m not a lastmaker, but I did convert my lace-up last into a casual one. Not the actual last, but I had a copy made and chopped the copy about, so the worst thing that could have happened would be a ruined copy. When I collected the copy and spoke to the lastmaker (St Crispin’s little brother), one thing he suggested I could do, was lowering the arch-support (filling-in a bit the concave section on the bottom of the last, so the insole is less raised under the arch) and the foot will sink deeper into the shoe. In the end, I didn’t do that; it wasn’t necessary as the loafer doesn’t gape when bending the foot.

As far as I understand it, gaping or not gaping is determined by the snugness of the top-line. Here are some drawings by Terry Moore, the grand old man of lastmaking, which were posted by Janne Melkersson on another forum, showing the top of the last is cut more deeply and narrower than for a lace-up last.






It is my understanding the cordovan loafer and the forthcoming suede loafer are both Cleverley. I don’t know if Cleverley routinely works with dedicated loafer lasts, or if they make loafers and slip-on shoes from the same last. When you’re the next time in London (or at Cleverley’s next trunk show near you), show them the cordovan loafer, explain the problem and discuss possible solutions. I believe it is the last that needs alterations. not the pattern.

Speaking of pattern, the shape of the tongue is just a creative decision. The cordovan loafer has quite a round tongue, while the tongue is more square on the other loafer. Just add ⅛ inch (at the most) to the sides of the tongue, so will be closer to the top-line, Make your own pattern: use a bit of soft cardboard, stick it underneath the strap and cut it to the tongue shape you prefer.

Now you are your own designer and pattern maker!
 

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