The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[jerrybrowne]

Some swatches from John Lobb SJ.

 

[jerrybrowne]



I don't think they have a separate last for loafers (I wish they did for a number of reasons).

Turns out this is not true.......

 

[Ric Borella]

Calzolera Riccardo Borella bespoke

 

[jerrybrowne]



Calzolera Riccardo Borella bespoke

Pretty cool. Can you provide some more information about the maker?

 

[Monty L]

So I'm back on the hunt for some crocodile suede chukka boots like these from TYE Shoemaker:

My desired specs would be close to what is shown with:
-slightly more square chiseled last
- 360 degreechained norvegesse with single leather sole, dark brown edges and welt color


Any thoughts on makers that would be especially strong in execution of this style?

 

[jerrybrowne]



So I'm back on the hunt for some crocodile suede chukka boots like these from TYE Shoemaker:

My desired specs would be close to what is shown with: -slightly more square chiseled last - 360 degreechained norvegesse with single leather sole, dark brown edges and welt color Any thoughts on makers that would be especially strong in execution of this style?

Not alot of people have access to the skins and can do the stitching, or at least do it well. I would say either Saint Crispin's for MTO or Riccardo Bestetti for bespoke. Cleverley can get the skin, but I doubt that they would do the stitching. Gaziano Girling has the Arran chukka which is similar, and can probably get the skins for MTO, although I don't know if they can do the stitching. There might be some other Italian makers that would do the stitching and get the skins MTO....

 

[Stefan88]

Something like this from Marquess, but black.

 

[Monty L]



Not alot of people have access to the skins and can do the stitching, or at least do it well. I would say either Saint Crispin's for MTO or Riccardo Bestetti for bespoke. Cleverley can get the skin, but I doubt that they would do the stitching. Gaziano Girling has the Arran chukka which is similar, and can probably get the skins for MTO, although I don't know if they can do the stitching. There might be some other Italian makers that would do the stitching and get the skins MTO....

Thanks! My initial thoughts were also G&G since the Arran on their chiseled or deco last would get close and I know their deco range has croc suede on one model. It might be time to contact them. In the interest of monogamy, I inquired about this order with Foster & son and they seemed comfortable taking it on. The main issue was that they quoted roughly a two year turnaround and, while they were happy to look into the stitching, I thought it might be better undertaken by another maker.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Thanks! My initial thoughts were also G&G since the Arran on their chiseled or deco last would get close and I know their deco range has croc suede on one model. It might be time to contact them. In the interest of monogamy, I inquired about this order with Foster & son and they seemed comfortable taking it on. The main issue was that they quoted roughly a two year turnaround and, while they were happy to look into the stitching, I thought it might be better undertaken by another maker.

2 years for Foster & Son? Do they visit your city very infrequently or was this an issue with outsourcing the stitching? I just started using them and was very impressed by the shape of the last that they made, and how attentive they were to fitting during the fitting stage. Turn around was 1 year though since this was a first pair.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Something like this from Marquess, but black.

Would love to try a Japanese maker. Are you going there or do they travel to Norway?

 

[Monty L]

2 years for Foster & Son? Do they visit your city very infrequently or was this an issue with outsourcing the stitching? I just started using them and was very impressed by the shape of the last that they made, and how attentive they were to fitting during the fitting stage. Turn around was 1 year though since this was a first pair.

To be clear, the extended time-frame was due to their insistence upon ensuring the best fit prior to cutting the skin. They didn't seem to bat an eye at the stitching or think it would add time to the making of the boot itself.I have dealt with them in the context of their semi bespoke line and some MTO purchases. Since I do not currently have a bespoke last on file, they proposed to fit me in a calf shoe first and then to proceed with the rare skin order including another fitting, effectively doubling the timeframe. However, since I am now looking into a reverse calf Thomas brogue, I could certainly go back to the original plan and simply make the chukkas a second order. As for visiting frequency, they seem to come to NYC enough, but it's much less convenient than when I lived in the UK last year and could just pop by from time to time. I certainly regret not commissioning a bespoke pair then.

 

[Stefan88]

Would love to try a Japanese maker. Are you going there or do they travel to Norway?

I've had one pair made. Travel to Japan every 6 months, so wasn't much of an issue. As they now have my last I will use the first pair some and then ask for slight slight modifications if needed. Hopefully get them next time I'm there, or when they visit Europe on holiday or so.
Another Japanese maker will be coming to Norway soon, but some details are not completely clear yet.

 

[Monty L]

Update:

leather samples from A.Crack arrived today. Will order willow zug on Monday for the veldts. One step closer!

 

[Monty L]

 

[Jakezero]

I've got 3 different ideas, I haven't settled on what I'll get made. Got a pair of boots made by Maftei last year, so I thought that I'd go for shoes this time around, as I've never been able to get RTW shoes to fit properly in the heel.

Whole cut double monks, something along the line of these by Meccariello:

Double monks ala G&G, in calf and croc:

Quarter brogues, I need to consider the design a bit, but probably something like these by Bestetti:

I've requested various leather samples from Maftei, so I'm currently waiting for those before I make any further plans.