Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Oligarch]

Hi All,

What typically happens with the cadence of fittings with a proper bespoke (not MTM) traveling tailor after an initial comission?

I started working with a reputable tailor visiting NY from abroad where I understood he’d be in town 3x a year, requiring 2 fittings (not counting the first purely measurement meeting) before delivery.

At my last meeting, he said he’s considering cutting down visits to 2x a year, but said after this first piece, future commissions would only require 1 fitting before delivery, since he’ll have an established pattern.

I don’t suspect anything underhanded, but curious as to what the convention tends to be with traveling tailors as I think of future commissions.

 

[tim_horton]

Hi All,

What typically happens with the cadence of fittings with a proper bespoke (not MTM) traveling tailor after an initial comission?

I started working with a reputable tailor visiting NY from abroad where I understood he’d be in town 3x a year, requiring 2 fittings (not counting the first purely measurement meeting) before delivery.

At my last meeting, he said he’s considering cutting down visits to 2x a year, but said after this first piece, future commissions would only require 1 fitting before delivery, since he’ll have an established pattern.

I don’t suspect anything underhanded, but curious as to what the convention tends to be with traveling tailors as I think of future commissions.

I don’t think there is a convention, really. Twice a year is not unusual for a traveling tailor, I don’t think. I prefer (at least) two fittings but ultimately the final product is what counts.

 

[camez_]

Hi All,

What typically happens with the cadence of fittings with a proper bespoke (not MTM) traveling tailor after an initial comission?

I started working with a reputable tailor visiting NY from abroad where I understood he’d be in town 3x a year, requiring 2 fittings (not counting the first purely measurement meeting) before delivery.

At my last meeting, he said he’s considering cutting down visits to 2x a year, but said after this first piece, future commissions would only require 1 fitting before delivery, since he’ll have an established pattern.

I don’t suspect anything underhanded, but curious as to what the convention tends to be with traveling tailors as I think of future commissions.

when tailors have your pattern down, you usually only need 1 or no fitting at all (also depending on weight fluctuation, of course)

 

[DavidLane]

Another gem from Antonio at Sartoria Pastena Elegance. It's the navy linen hopsack from Fox at 18/19oz which is HEAVY. Will be really nice in the fall too.

-DL

 

[hitsuji]

First fitting of the Fox City Char-Navy - it looks more gray than navy most of the time and especially from far away. More Navy under natural light.

Decided to go for notch lapels and widen them a tad bit 3.5>3.75

 

[The_Schmidt]

Two new trouser projects kicked off today. One is in Maison Hellard "Cigare" 330g linen and the other is in an unknown cotton (!)

As per usual, colours are a bit off with my mobile. The top one is what I chose for the cotton:

...and here is both the cotton and the linen (already pre-washed):

 

[tdang]

Hi fellas,

SartoJun came to Hanoi this weekend and meeting him (as well as Chan from the store Barbershop in Seoul) was a blast. Some snaps from the trunk show (thanks to the exceedingly kind @hieu__chu for the photos and the company).

My order (all single breasted)
- Tricotine suit
- Terracotta Carlo Barbera wool-silk-linen jacket
- Air Force Blue silk-linen jacket (interesting streaky texture)
- Of course, gotta get a dope tweed.

Bonus: something came in the mail yesterday - the cloth collab between Taillour and Maison Hellard. Thanks to Lee from Taillour for allocating me a length!

 

[Noirkw]

Hi fellas,

SartoJun came to Hanoi this weekend and meeting him (as well as Chan from the store Barbershop in Seoul) was a blast. Some snaps from the trunk show (thanks to the exceedingly kind @hieu__chu for the photos and the company).

View attachment 2194139

View attachment 2194143

View attachment 2194145

My order (all single breasted)
- Tricotine suit
- Terracotta Carlo Barbera wool-silk-linen jacket
- Air Force Blue silk-linen jacket (interesting streaky texture)
- Of course, gotta get a dope tweed.

View attachment 2194149

Bonus: something came in the mail yesterday - the cloth collab between Taillour and Maison Hellard. Thanks to Lee from Taillour for allocating me a length!

View attachment 2194151

Would have came down from Singapore to meet SartoJun if my schedule aligned. Hopefully this won't be the last time you do mini trunk with him

 

[tdang]

Would have came down from Singapore to meet SartoJun if my schedule aligned. Hopefully this won't be the last time you do mini trunk with him

He's in no rush to expand his business overseas - what's most important to him is that he gets to meet clients who understands what he does.

He will come regularly (3+ visits per year) if we can round up 4-5 orders each trip. Might be hard to hold down the fort by myself in Hanoi, so if any of you gents based in Southeast Asia are interested in making this a regular thing please let me know.

 

[Texasmade]

Hi fellas,

SartoJun came to Hanoi this weekend and meeting him (as well as Chan from the store Barbershop in Seoul) was a blast. Some snaps from the trunk show (thanks to the exceedingly kind @hieu__chu for the photos and the company).

View attachment 2194139

View attachment 2194143

View attachment 2194145

My order (all single breasted)
- Tricotine suit
- Terracotta Carlo Barbera wool-silk-linen jacket
- Air Force Blue silk-linen jacket (interesting streaky texture)
- Of course, gotta get a dope tweed.

View attachment 2194149

Bonus: something came in the mail yesterday - the cloth collab between Taillour and Maison Hellard. Thanks to Lee from Taillour for allocating me a length!

View attachment 2194151

Your wardrobe has to be insane at this point. Can't wait to see more of your finished projects come through.

 

[oldworldelegance]

Hello,

I have a DB shawl collar dinner suit in progress in Smiths Woolens wool/kid mohair barathea blend.

The question is what should the facings of the lapel be? Should it be silk satin or grosgrain? I prefer a matte finish (so grosgrain) but my tailor pointed out that the lapels are likely to be more matte than the suit (due to the mohair). He also said that this silk satin isn't very shiny. What do you all think? What have you used?

The facings come from Bernstein and Banleys, so here are the two options:
1. silk satin: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-silk-satin-facing-black/
2. grosgrain: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-all-silk-cord-facing-black/

Thanks!

 

[lordsuperb]

Hello,

I have a DB shawl collar dinner suit in progress in Smiths Woolens wool/kid mohair barathea blend.

The question is what should the facings of the lapel be? Should it be silk satin or grosgrain? I prefer a matte finish (so grosgrain) but my tailor pointed out that the lapels are likely to be more matte than the suit (due to the mohair). He also said that this silk satin isn't very shiny. What do you all think? What have you used?

The facings come from Bernstein and Banleys, so here are the two options:
1. silk satin: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-silk-satin-facing-black/
2. grosgrain: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-all-silk-cord-facing-black/

Thanks!

Mohair and satin

 

[hpreston]

Hello,

I have a DB shawl collar dinner suit in progress in Smiths Woolens wool/kid mohair barathea blend.

The question is what should the facings of the lapel be? Should it be silk satin or grosgrain? I prefer a matte finish (so grosgrain) but my tailor pointed out that the lapels are likely to be more matte than the suit (due to the mohair). He also said that this silk satin isn't very shiny. What do you all think? What have you used?

The facings come from Bernstein and Banleys, so here are the two options:
1. silk satin: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-silk-satin-facing-black/
2. grosgrain: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-all-silk-cord-facing-black/

Thanks!

Mohair and grosgrain

 

[ericgereghty]

I think this falls under the “overthinking it” umbrella. Both look great, and I’m certain nobody would even halfway stop to even contemplate noticing?

Lordy, was that bespoke? Pretty sleazy (in the best way) belly on those lapels. Awesome look

 

[NJZC]

First fitting of the Fox City Char-Navy - it looks more gray than navy most of the time and especially from far away. More Navy under natural light.

Decided to go for notch lapels and widen them a tad bit 3.5>3.75

Looks good. I’m getting the same char-navy but in POW and DB.