• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • UNIFORM LA Heavyweight Tees Drop, going on right now.

    Uniform LA's popular heavyweight tees are now restocked, in three styles, so there is something for every style. They are available in three classic colors: white, black, and the heather grey featured here.. These high quality tees are staples that work in every seasons. Check them out here here

    If you have any questions for the designer, please, he is a valued and active member and sponsor of the community, and can be found here

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Oligarch

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2008
Messages
166
Reaction score
5
Hi All,

What typically happens with the cadence of fittings with a proper bespoke (not MTM) traveling tailor after an initial comission?

I started working with a reputable tailor visiting NY from abroad where I understood he’d be in town 3x a year, requiring 2 fittings (not counting the first purely measurement meeting) before delivery.

At my last meeting, he said he’s considering cutting down visits to 2x a year, but said after this first piece, future commissions would only require 1 fitting before delivery, since he’ll have an established pattern.

I don’t suspect anything underhanded, but curious as to what the convention tends to be with traveling tailors as I think of future commissions.
 

tim_horton

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
1,438
Reaction score
903
Hi All,

What typically happens with the cadence of fittings with a proper bespoke (not MTM) traveling tailor after an initial comission?

I started working with a reputable tailor visiting NY from abroad where I understood he’d be in town 3x a year, requiring 2 fittings (not counting the first purely measurement meeting) before delivery.

At my last meeting, he said he’s considering cutting down visits to 2x a year, but said after this first piece, future commissions would only require 1 fitting before delivery, since he’ll have an established pattern.

I don’t suspect anything underhanded, but curious as to what the convention tends to be with traveling tailors as I think of future commissions.
I don’t think there is a convention, really. Twice a year is not unusual for a traveling tailor, I don’t think. I prefer (at least) two fittings but ultimately the final product is what counts.
 

camez_

Timed Out
Timed Out
Joined
Mar 1, 2019
Messages
432
Reaction score
955
Hi All,

What typically happens with the cadence of fittings with a proper bespoke (not MTM) traveling tailor after an initial comission?

I started working with a reputable tailor visiting NY from abroad where I understood he’d be in town 3x a year, requiring 2 fittings (not counting the first purely measurement meeting) before delivery.

At my last meeting, he said he’s considering cutting down visits to 2x a year, but said after this first piece, future commissions would only require 1 fitting before delivery, since he’ll have an established pattern.

I don’t suspect anything underhanded, but curious as to what the convention tends to be with traveling tailors as I think of future commissions.

when tailors have your pattern down, you usually only need 1 or no fitting at all (also depending on weight fluctuation, of course)
 

DavidLane

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2012
Messages
2,029
Reaction score
5,831
Another gem from Antonio at Sartoria Pastena Elegance. It's the navy linen hopsack from Fox at 18/19oz which is HEAVY. Will be really nice in the fall too.
thumbnail_IMG_3133.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_3139.jpg

-DL
 

The_Schmidt

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
178
Reaction score
831
Two new trouser projects kicked off today. One is in Maison Hellard "Cigare" 330g linen and the other is in an unknown cotton (!)

As per usual, colours are a bit off with my mobile. The top one is what I chose for the cotton:
IMG_8369.JPEG


...and here is both the cotton and the linen (already pre-washed):
IMG_8384.JPEG
 

tdang

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Messages
190
Reaction score
1,257
Hi fellas,

SartoJun came to Hanoi this weekend and meeting him (as well as Chan from the store Barbershop in Seoul) was a blast. Some snaps from the trunk show (thanks to the exceedingly kind @hieu__chu for the photos and the company).

IMG_0264.jpeg


IMG_0265.jpeg


IMG_0266.jpeg


My order (all single breasted)
- Tricotine suit
- Terracotta Carlo Barbera wool-silk-linen jacket
- Air Force Blue silk-linen jacket (interesting streaky texture)
- Of course, gotta get a dope tweed.

IMG_0260.jpeg


Bonus: something came in the mail yesterday - the cloth collab between Taillour and Maison Hellard. Thanks to Lee from Taillour for allocating me a length!

IMG_0263.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0260.jpeg
    IMG_0260.jpeg
    353.6 KB · Views: 33

Noirkw

Senior Member
Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
169
Reaction score
426
Hi fellas,

SartoJun came to Hanoi this weekend and meeting him (as well as Chan from the store Barbershop in Seoul) was a blast. Some snaps from the trunk show (thanks to the exceedingly kind @hieu__chu for the photos and the company).

View attachment 2194139

View attachment 2194143

View attachment 2194145

My order (all single breasted)
- Tricotine suit
- Terracotta Carlo Barbera wool-silk-linen jacket
- Air Force Blue silk-linen jacket (interesting streaky texture)
- Of course, gotta get a dope tweed.

View attachment 2194149

Bonus: something came in the mail yesterday - the cloth collab between Taillour and Maison Hellard. Thanks to Lee from Taillour for allocating me a length!

View attachment 2194151

Would have came down from Singapore to meet SartoJun if my schedule aligned. Hopefully this won't be the last time you do mini trunk with him
 

tdang

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Messages
190
Reaction score
1,257
Would have came down from Singapore to meet SartoJun if my schedule aligned. Hopefully this won't be the last time you do mini trunk with him
He's in no rush to expand his business overseas - what's most important to him is that he gets to meet clients who understands what he does.

He will come regularly (3+ visits per year) if we can round up 4-5 orders each trip. Might be hard to hold down the fort by myself in Hanoi, so if any of you gents based in Southeast Asia are interested in making this a regular thing please let me know.
 

Texasmade

Stylish Dinosaur
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2008
Messages
29,197
Reaction score
38,510
Hi fellas,

SartoJun came to Hanoi this weekend and meeting him (as well as Chan from the store Barbershop in Seoul) was a blast. Some snaps from the trunk show (thanks to the exceedingly kind @hieu__chu for the photos and the company).

View attachment 2194139

View attachment 2194143

View attachment 2194145

My order (all single breasted)
- Tricotine suit
- Terracotta Carlo Barbera wool-silk-linen jacket
- Air Force Blue silk-linen jacket (interesting streaky texture)
- Of course, gotta get a dope tweed.

View attachment 2194149

Bonus: something came in the mail yesterday - the cloth collab between Taillour and Maison Hellard. Thanks to Lee from Taillour for allocating me a length!

View attachment 2194151
Your wardrobe has to be insane at this point. Can't wait to see more of your finished projects come through.
 

oldworldelegance

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2021
Messages
263
Reaction score
420
Hello,

I have a DB shawl collar dinner suit in progress in Smiths Woolens wool/kid mohair barathea blend.

The question is what should the facings of the lapel be? Should it be silk satin or grosgrain? I prefer a matte finish (so grosgrain) but my tailor pointed out that the lapels are likely to be more matte than the suit (due to the mohair). He also said that this silk satin isn't very shiny. What do you all think? What have you used?

The facings come from Bernstein and Banleys, so here are the two options:
1. silk satin: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-silk-satin-facing-black/
2. grosgrain: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-all-silk-cord-facing-black/

Thanks!
 

lordsuperb

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 30, 2009
Messages
9,100
Reaction score
12,803
Hello,

I have a DB shawl collar dinner suit in progress in Smiths Woolens wool/kid mohair barathea blend.

The question is what should the facings of the lapel be? Should it be silk satin or grosgrain? I prefer a matte finish (so grosgrain) but my tailor pointed out that the lapels are likely to be more matte than the suit (due to the mohair). He also said that this silk satin isn't very shiny. What do you all think? What have you used?

The facings come from Bernstein and Banleys, so here are the two options:
1. silk satin: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-silk-satin-facing-black/
2. grosgrain: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-all-silk-cord-facing-black/

Thanks!
Mohair and satin

bdd5caed-7d06-49f3-846e-fda5c6bf447b-jpeg.1553749

 

hpreston

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
3,649
Reaction score
7,738
Hello,

I have a DB shawl collar dinner suit in progress in Smiths Woolens wool/kid mohair barathea blend.

The question is what should the facings of the lapel be? Should it be silk satin or grosgrain? I prefer a matte finish (so grosgrain) but my tailor pointed out that the lapels are likely to be more matte than the suit (due to the mohair). He also said that this silk satin isn't very shiny. What do you all think? What have you used?

The facings come from Bernstein and Banleys, so here are the two options:
1. silk satin: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-silk-satin-facing-black/
2. grosgrain: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/trimmings/silk-facings/18-all-silk-cord-facing-black/

Thanks!

Mohair and grosgrain

IMG_7062.jpeg
 

ericgereghty

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2013
Messages
8,491
Reaction score
14,749
I think this falls under the “overthinking it” umbrella. Both look great, and I’m certain nobody would even halfway stop to even contemplate noticing?

Lordy, was that bespoke? Pretty sleazy (in the best way) belly on those lapels. Awesome look
 

NJZC

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2023
Messages
6
Reaction score
5
First fitting of the Fox City Char-Navy - it looks more gray than navy most of the time and especially from far away. More Navy under natural light.

Decided to go for notch lapels and widen them a tad bit 3.5>3.75
Looks good. I’m getting the same char-navy but in POW and DB.
 

Featured Sponsor

Do You Consider Sustainability When Purchasing Clothes?

  • Always - Sustainability is a top priority in all my clothing purchases.

  • Often - I frequently consider sustainability, but it isn't the main factor in my decisions.

  • Rarely - I seldom consider sustainability when purchasing clothes.

  • Never - Sustainability is not a factor I consider in my clothing choices.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
510,517
Messages
10,621,170
Members
225,279
Latest member
skyexchangeereviews
Top