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What's the difference between a bespoke shirt and a MTM shirt?

americanninja

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Let me preface this a bit. I understand the general concept and difference between a bespoke shirt and a MTM shirt. Basically, a bespoke shirt is on fully customized to my body and a pattern is made to cut the shirt to my body dimensions. A MTM shirt takes an existing pattern and then takes measurements from the person and adjust to make the shirt fitted for him.

So that's the way I understand it. I'm having trouble understanding how that will really make any difference if I can fully customize every measurement of the shirt and have it altered. So if I can specify all the dimensions of the shirt, wouldn't that be my pattern? So how are these two things different?

As an example, I have a tailor in Japan which is a MTM shirt/suit shop. He takes my measurements and I can basically specify, the yoke, the shoulder length, sleeve length, half waist, half chest, half hips, length of the shirt, cuff size, armhole circumference, number of buttons on the front, collar style, placket style, number of pockets, pleated or not, etc.

I don't really understand what there is left to bespoke. Am I missing something?
 

breakaway01

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The key difference is that for true bespoke you are paying for the tailor's experience to design a pattern for you. You are not specifying each and every measurement. A good tailor has training and experience which few of us have. In addition a good bespoke tailor should be willing to alter or remake the shirt as needed until it fits you correctly.

You should also understand that the measurements that you listed don't fully capture a shirt pattern . For example, an armhole and sleevehead are not simply ovals. How these are shaped will influence how the shirt fits in your upper chest and arm.
 
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Bespoke usually involves taking your shape into consideration. That is to say that if you have a shoulder say, lower than another, a bespoke garment will take such things in consideration, whereas MTM is usually geometric and the same both sides. Also MTM does not take into consideration non equal measurements ie. Your back might be broader than your front etc. Usually bespoke is for fitted garments requiring darts in the right position etc, whereas a general shirt may not be fitted so measurements are enough. If the shirt is fitted than bespoke will give you a better fitted garment.
 

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