tweedydon
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I have a slew of wonderful tweeds and blazers to pass on today, including some GRAILS, such as a vintage cashmere 3/2 sack from Chipp, a Dartmouth College Class of '56 Reunion jacket, and more, including Harris and Donegal Tweeds, vintage 3/2 sacks, Vintage Brooks Brothers (Brooksgate, and Makers), Southwick, Hilton, and more!
PLUS, 36 other jackets can be found here:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/538196/...e-3-2-sacks-more-free-shipping-offers-welcome
AND 25 MORE (INCLUDING SOME FOR SPRING!) HERE:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/538660/...-of-morgan-stanley-a-reality-tv-star-and-more
As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING IN THE USA: International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at reduced cost.
Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!
Please PM with interest and offers!
37) GRAIL! Pure Cashmere 3/2 sack from Chipp!
Chipp needs no introduction here--they were one of the best tailors in New York (JFK was one of their clients), and THE Ivy Style tailor, being responsible for inventing the Ivy GTH staple of embroidered trousers.
Chipp's products are invariably absolutely first rate, and this beautiful cashmere 3/2 sack is no exception. Cut from pure cashmere--and not the thin mall stuff that's so common nowadays, but the wonderfully rich and soft cashmere that earned this cloth its reputation--in a lovely tan and cream bareleycorn weave, this jacket is cut as a classic 3/2 sack. It is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has lapped seams across the shoulders and down the center back. It features two button cuffs and a single center vent. It was, of course, Made in New York. It does have one small issue; the jetted pockets have started to sag slightly on the leading edge, as can be seen in the pictures. This could be rectified either by pressing, or, perhaps, by pressing and then basting shut to retain their shape. This is a common problem with jetted pockets, especially in fabrics such as cashmere, but because of this this jacket is in Very Good condition, and hence is a steal at just $40, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Tagged 40L. Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 31
38) MUSEUM QUALITY! Dartmouth College 3/2 sack Reunion jacket, Class of '56.
I don't use the term "museum quality" lightly, but this beautiful jacket most certainly qualifies as it is precisely the sort of jacket that was featured in the Fashion Institute of Technology's 2013 exhibition on "Ivy Style" as being quintessentially Ivy.
This is no ordinary jacket--this is a specially designed Ivy League Reunion jacket, made for a member of Dartmouth's Class of '56.
Reunion Jackets are rare, especially on the secondary market; very few are made, and these tend to be saved by the children and grandchildren of their original owners. And this is a lovely example. Judging by the interior Union label this was made for the Ten Year Reunion of Dartmouth's Class of '56, and it is a classic example of 1960s Ivy Style.
Cut as a traditional 1960s 3/2 sack, this has wonderfully narrow lapels with a lovely roll. It also features three patch pockets on the front, with the breast pocket featuring the "1956" embroidery that identifies this as a Reunion Jacket. It is, of course, cut from lovely wool flannel is classic "Dartmouth Green". This jacket is fully canvassed and half lined, and has a single center vent. It features three button cuffs, and was originally sold by James Campion, the traditional Ivy outfitters for Dartmouth's Ivy Set. It features three button cuffs and a single center vent, and has very natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and apart from some minor dusting on the collar crease--which will come out with dry-cleaning and, in any case, cannot be seen when worn--this is in absolutely excellent condition, despite being over 50 years old. But then, that's only to be expected--Reunion Jackets were worn very, very rarely, and cherished between outings.
Given the rarity and beauty of this jacket--as well as its museum quality--it's a bargain at just $55, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/8
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 32
39) BEAUTIFUL Shepherd's Check Jacket from Nick Hilton of Princeton
Nick Hilton is carrying on the tradition of Norman Hilton, and is now the only trad. clothiers left in Princeton with a connection to the Big Five clothiers of the Golden Age of Ivy Style. Cut from a lovely wool cloth with a wonderful hand and drape, this jacket is a lovely small shephard's check tweed in chestnut, moss, and tan. It is a three button front jacket with the hint of a lapel roll, subtle darts and two front flapped pockets. It has four button cuffs, is half-canvassed, and fully lined. It features twin vents. It was Made in the USA and is in absolutely excellent condition.
Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA for this beautiful jacket!
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 32
40) ELEGANT Made in Italy Black and Grey Plaid Jacket
This is a beautifully elegant jacket! Made in Italy, this is cut from pure virgin wool with a lovely and sophisticated plaid in greys and blacks. The jacket is a rare two button sack; it features jetted pockets and two button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and is unvented, in Flusser-approved style. The shoudlers are more padded than American jackets, in the Continental style. It is in excellent condition, and was Made in Italy.
Asking just $35, or offer.
Tagged 50R (US 40R), this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 30
41) BEAUTIFUL Made in Ireland Donegal Tweed Jacket
This is wonderful! Cut from genuine Donegal tweed in a classic dark brown herringbone flecked throughout with scarlet, moss green, and sky blue, the tweed of this beautiful jacket is like evening clouds over a peat bog at dusk on a November late afternoon, with the peat fire and Irish tea waiting in the cottage.
Cut as a classic Irish three button hacking jacket with subtle darting, this has twin vents and three button cuffs. It is half canvassed and fully lined, and features complementary metal-shanked buttons is burnished chestnut. It was, of course, Made in Ireland, and apart from the start of some minor sag to the interior pockets is in excellent condition.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 21 1/2
Length: 31 1/2
42) BEAUTIFUL 3/2 sack by Corbin for The English Shop of Princeton
Absolutely beautiful, this is the perfect tweed to transition into Spring! Cut as a classic 3/2 sack by Corbiin, this has a wonderfully fluid lapel roll. The tweed is a lovely classic glen plaid with a tan base, with lichen main checking and an overcheck in bracken and chestnut. This is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has a single centre vent. It has three button cuffs, and was, of course, Union Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition apart from a small rub by the leading edge of the interior pocket.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 28 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 33
43) S. Cohen of Montreal Jacket
A lovely and unusual jacket cut from Italian wool with vertical striping in dark blue-grey slate, bracken, and burnished chestnut, this is a contemporary two button model with darting and three button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features plenty of pick stitching in the lining. It has twin vents--appropriately enough, since this is Cohen's "England" model! This was Union Made in Canada, and is in absolutely excellent (likely unworn) condition--the two front pockets are still basted shut!
Asking just $35, or offer.
Tagged 44R, this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+ 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/8
44) Southwick Tweed with RARE three patch pockets!
SOLD
In 1993 Southwick debuted its "Wickets" (derived from SouthWICK!) line of clothing. This was intended to be a slightly less formal range, designed to appeal to younger men in an effort to woo them into then purchasing Southwick's more traditional clothing. Alas, 1993 was right at the start of Grunge, and Southwick's view of "informal" was a far cry from that of Kurt Cobain. The effort was short-lived, and the brand elapsed in 2003.
Southwick's Wickets clothing is now very desirable, as it often featured elements that are both sought-after and rare--such as the three patch pockets on this lovely jacket! Cut from a a lovely heathery brown herringbone, his is a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts and four button cuffs. It is half-canvaased and fully lined, and has a single center vent. It was Made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/4
45) Basketweave Tweed by Barrister for Wallach's.
SOLD
Tweeds made for Wallach's by Barrister were the workhorses of their time--the East Coast Ivy equivalent of the British Dunn & Co. tweeds across the pond--although admittedly less hairy and robust than their British equivalents! This is a lovely example, being cut from a lovely basketweave tweed in charcoal, slate grey,a and petrol blue, with burnished chestnut leather-covered and metal shanked football buttons, a two button front, and subtle darting. It is half-lined, and features a single centre vent. It was Union made in the USA on February 21st, 1985--and is in excellent condition!
Asking just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 26 1/8 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 31 3/4
46) CLASSIC Brooks Brothers Navy Blazer
The trad classic! This is a nice example of a contemporary Brooks Brothers navy blazer. It has a two button front, and subtle darting; it is half-canvassed and fully lined with a single center vent. It features Brooks Brothers signature buttons from Waterbury of Conn.; three to each cuff. This was, of course, Union Made in the USA.
Although the two front pockets are still basted shut this is only in Good/Very Good condition. It has a very small pinhole on the underside of one sleeve, and some minor schmaltz on the front near the hem; this will almost certainly come out with dry cleaning. Given these flaws, this is just $26, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Tagged 48R. Measures:
Chest: 24 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 20 3/4
Length: 31 1/2
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/tweedydon/JACKETS%20FEB%2026%202017/th_DSC09001_zpsng9yzd2w.jpg[/IMG]
47) LOVELY Brooks Brothers "Brooksgate" Tweed. PERFECT FOR SPRING!
This is a truly lovely tweed! made for Brooks Brothers' vintage "Brooksgate" line-aimed at younger men, and intended to be the "gate" to Brooks Brothers' more mature lines--this is a lovely dove grey herringbone tweed with vertical striping in sepia rose pink and Spring sky blue. This jacket would be perfect for the cooler days of Sping! It is a contemporary two buton model with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It features chestnut leather-covered metal-shanked football buttons, with three to each cuff. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition.
Asking just $40, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 27 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 33 1/2
48) ICONIC Thinsulate Lined Tweed Jacket by LL Bean. SOLID LODEN GREEN!
SInce its founding in 1912 LL Bean has produced some iconic items of clothing. The most famous of these is likely the Maine Hunting Shoe, but this is closely followed by its saddle shoulder shetland sweaters, its Flying Tigers leather jackets, its Field jackets... and its Thinsulate lined tweed jackets, of which this is another wonderful example.
Cut from lovely thick heavyweight tweed (100% wool) in Loden green, this beautiful jacket has been designed to be utterly functional--as well as extremely stylish. Cut with a three button front and subtle darts, this beautiful jacket has the ever-desirable three patch pockets. It also has a fully functional throat latch to keep out the wind, and two deep interior pockets, one of which is zippered for security. It is unvented, as befits its status as jacket/outerwear, and is warmly lined in quilted Thinsulate.
This beautiful jacket was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 31
49) CLASSIC Harris Tweed in flecked grey herringbone
A beautiful, recent Harris tweed in classic grey herringbone that's flecked with moss green, sky blue, butter yellow, and pumpkin orange, this is a contemporary two button front model with subtle darts. It is likely unworn--the two front pockets are still basted shut, and there si the remnants of the basting thread at the vent! ! It is fully lined and has a single centre vent. It has four button cuffs; all of the buttons are rich burnished chestnut and metal shanked. It is in absolutely excellent condition, and a bargain at just $39, or offer.
Tagged 46L. Measures:
Chest: 23 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 21 1/4
Length: 32 1/4
50) CLASSIC Harris Tweed in grey and chestnut brown herringbone.
This is a lovely, classic Harris Tweed jacket in a grey and light brown herringbone which presents as classic grey herringbone. This features the classic vertical single-thread striping of traditional Harris herringbone, here in subtle sky blue, tea rose pink, and tan. The jacket is cut as a contemporary two button front jacket, with subtle darting and a single centre vent. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features the traditional leather-covered, metal shanked football buttons that are the perfect complement to Harris Tweed. This was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $32, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
51) WONDERFUL Classic Harris Tweed with Patch Pockets from PBM, sold by DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ
PMB--Pincus Bros Maxwell--was founded in 1911, and is one of the great traditional American clothiers, making most of their items in Philadelphia, hence the Liberty Bell on their labels. This jacket was made by PBM for DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ.
Pennington found fame in Frederick Forsyth's novel, *Avenger*, where it was accurately described as a classic Revolutionary War small town, inhabited mainly by old-money families who preferred its quiet to the bustle of nearby Princeton. DiTorio's used to be THE classic old-money clothier of Pennington, specializing, like Langrock, in the Waspy Anglophile Ivy look. Like Langrock, DiTorio's is long gone, but some of its wares occasionally surface from the cedar closets that they have been carefully stored in--and this Harris Tweed jacket is a lovely case in point!
Made from a beautiful and increasingly rare basketweave in shades of grey, cream, and brown Harris Tweed cloth this lovely jacket is a contemporary two button front with darts. It is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single center vent and three button cuffs--all of the buttons are a lovely light chestnut leather, with meta shanks, as is proper for Harris Tweed. This jacket also features the ever-desirable patch pockets! It was, of course, Made in the USA--in Philadelphia!--and it is in excellent condition.
Asking just $35, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder 17 3/4
Length: 30
52) Lovely Brooks Brothers Jacket in Silk-Wool Blend with overchecking
This is a lovely recent jacket from Brooks Brothers! Although there is no fabric content listed this is almost certainly a silk-wool blend in a lovely golden-wheat barleycorn weave with subtle overchecking in seafoam green, blue, berry red, and burnt orange. This is half-canvassed and fully lined, and is cut as a contemporary two button front model with subtle darting. It has three button cuffs and a single center rear vent. It was Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition except for a small ink mark on the lining under the interior pocket, as shown. This is a bargain at
just $32, or offer.
Tagged 45L. Measurements:
Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/8
Length: 32
53) RARE Vintage Cashmere Two Button Sack Jacket
This is absolutely lovely! This jacket was sold by Hess's Department store of Allentown, Pa.. Hess's was one of the great American stores, being founded in 1897 and having several notable firsts. It was, for example, the first Department store to sell pure gold over the counter in 1974 when the sale of bullion was legalized, and the first store to carry the controversial "monokini"--a bikini without the top. They failed to sell even one. Hess is also known for its HUGE sign--the largest store sign outside New York City at the time--which weighed 8 tons and was 45 feet tall. Hess's acquired its name in 1968--when it changed from Hess Brothers--and so given this, the Union label, and the narrow lapels, this jacket was likely made in 1968 or 1969.
Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly cashmere, and not the thin mall stuff that's so common today, but the thick and luxurious cashmere of the 1960s that established this cloth as a true luxury item. The colourway and patterning of this jacket are beautifully late 1960s, being a mix of old gold and black with iridescent green thread woven throughout--although the effect is more conservative and classic than this description indicates!
Cut as a rare two button sack this is fully canvassed and fully lined. It features slanted hacking pockets and a twin vent, as well as two button cuffs. It features lovely late 1960s "down notch" narrow lapels! It has all of its original buttons intact, and is in Very Good/Excellent condition--only because I am conservative in rating vintage pieces. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA.
Asking just $40, or offer, for a lovely and rare cashmere two button sack!
Measurements:
Chest: 19 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/8 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 29
54) CLASSIC Basketweave Harris Tweed Jacket
This is a lovely classic Harris tweed is a wonderful basketweave in autumnal and winter browns, creams, and peat blacks! Cut as a contemporary two button model this is darted, half-canvassed and half-lined, with a single center vent. All of the buttons are leather-covered and metal shanked, and this was Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition apart from some slight rumpling from storage, and so this is in very Good/Excellent condition. As such, it is
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30
55) Vintage 1960s 3/2 sack Jacket
This is a lovely classic vintage 3/2 sack from the Golden Age of Ivy Style! Cut from a quintessentially 1960s dark green and brown wool cloth with vertical striping this has lovely narrow lapels and a lovely fluid lapel roll. It is half canvassed and half-lined, and has two button cuffs and a single center vent. It has very natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA. It could use a dry clean to freshen it up, and so it is in Very Good condition, and so is a steal at
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
SHoulder: 17 1/8
Length: 29 1/2
56) GRAIL! VINTAGE Abercrombie & Fitch three button sack jacket in PURE CASHMERE
Abercrombie & Fitch is mainly known now for its teenager-oriented fashion, and its rather tacky ad. campaigns. It's also known for claiming that it's been an authentic American company since 1892. And, while the company that was the predecessor of the current A&F was founded then, for the current A&F to claim that it's just as authentically American the original is rather like Edward Hyde claiming to be just as authentically good as Dr. Henry Jeykll.
Founded in 1892, Abercrombie & Fitch started life as a sporting goods store specializing in gear that by its nature had to perform well--or else its owner could end up dead. Abercrombie & Fitch outfitted Charles Lindbergh for his solo flight across the Atlantic (and in the process produced a wonderful A1 jacket!), Teddy Roosevelt for his hunting trips, and Ernest Hemingway with fishing equipment, various items of manly outdoor clothing--and the shotgun that he used to kill himself.
By 1977, the company was in bankruptcy, and in 1978 it was purchased by a Houston-based sporting goods firm that intended to continue its august heritage. Unfortunately, there clearly was a reason for the demise of Abercrombie & Fitch in 1977, and the firm was again sold in 1988, to the The Limited. This fashion-orientated clothing firm that made the once-great clothing company a cash cow of cheap and fashionable teenage clothing.
A good indication of the difference between the current A&F and the original can be seen in the fact that in 1927 the company patented a new form of telescopic sight mounting for rifles, while in 2011 it patented a new type of flower topped perfume bottle.
THIS jacket dates from the era when it was still a leading purveyor of first-class clothing that was built to last. This is cut from extremely soft and luxurious cashmere at a time when cashmere really was a special fabric. (Old-style cashmere is very different from the cheap mall cashmere that's so prevalent today.) Both the hand and drape of this fabric are lovely!
The jacket is cut as a three button sack, with the ever-desirable three patch pockets. The lapels are beautifully narrow, as is proper for a mid-century jacket, and it has two button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It has lovely natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and carries the classic green-on-black Abercrombie & Fitch label.
This jacket does have two minor flaws, neither of which are very noticeable. First, there is a small snag on the lapel; this can hardly be seen, and would be a very easy repair to make for a competent reweaver. Second, there is some slight mars near the right-hand hem, by the pocket, as shown--again, this can hardly be seen when the jacket is worn. Because of these, the jacket is in Very Good condition, and so is a bargain at
just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30 1/2
57) Princeton University Store Silk Glen Plaid Jacket
Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly either all silk, or a silk-wool blend. Cut as a three button jacket with subtle darting this has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. Owing to its high silk content is has a lovely slubby texture which is well suited to the classic bold glen plaid patterning in black, slate grey, and cream, with forest green and golden sunset overchecking. This jacket was Made in the USA, and was originally sold at the Princeton University Store. This is in excellent condition (the interior label will be resewn before shipping) and is a bargain at
just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32
58) GRAIL! 1954 Southwick Tweed, made for The Andover Shop, Mass.!
SOLD
This is a wonderful jacket, with a wonderful provenance!
The Andover Shop was founded in 1948 in Andover, Mass., with an eye to selling traditional American clothing to the clientele of nearby Philips Academy. (A second shop was opened in 1953, by Harvard--for obvious reasons.) They also make bespoke and offer MTM clothing--like this wonderful jacket, which was made by Southwick and completed on 21st October, 1954.
Despite being over 60 years old this jacket could easily pass as being one made in the 1990s, and carefully looked after. (Note that from my perspective a jacket made in the 1990s is something that's fairly recent!) It's in absolutely excellent condition--as you'd expect, since someone who buys bespoke at The Andover Shop is likely to be someone who cares about clothes, and looks after them; and well-made tweeds repay care with considerable longevity!
And this jacket is wonderful. The tweed is absolutely beautiful. At first sight, it appears to be a dark brown herringbone with vertical striping in rich dark chestnut. However, closer examination reveals that the tweed consists of herringbone striping with the differing diagonals both different lengths and separated by the vertical striping--a lovely, classic, yet rare tweed.
Cut as a sack--undarted--as you'd expect from The Andover Shop, this is not a 3/2 jacket. Instead, it has a three button front with just the HINT of a lapel roll at the top button. It has two button cuffs, period-correct narrow lapels, a lapped central seam down the back and a single hook vent. It has very natural shoulders. It is half-canvassed and fully lined in a beautiful yellow lining with red and Royal blue neats. It was, of course, Made in the USA.
Asking just $49, or offer--a steal for a jacket of this beauty, quality, and with this provenance!
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 32 1/2
59) MADE IN ITALY wool and cashmere jacket.
Cut from a lovely golden-wheat barleycorn cloth, this jacket is a blend of 80% wool and 20% cashmere. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a three button front with subtle darts, and is unvented, in Flusser approved style. Made in Italy, and in excellent condition.
Just $24, or offer.
Tagged 40S. Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/8
Length: 29
60) VINTAGE Autumnal Jacket by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--when Trenton was good!
This jacket was originally sold by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--back when Trenton was FAR wealthier and WASP than its neighbour, Princeton. F.W. Donnelly was THE exclusive men's haberdashers, and considered itself to cater to a far more sophisticated and worldly clientele that their Princeton rivals, such as Langrock or The English Shop, with their reliance on undergraduates and academics. Donnelly's catered to the political elite of New Jersey--indeed, Frederick Donnelly, the owner of Donnelly's, was mayor of Trenton for 20 years, from 1911 to 1931.
This jacket is a lovely example of the wares purveyed to Trenton's political elite. Dating from the 1960s this is cut as a two button jacket with subtle darts from lovely autumnal cloth with overchecking. This has two button cuffs and a single center vents; it also features lovely narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and was, of course, Union Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition, and a steal at
just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 33 1/2
61) GORGEOUS Turnbull & Asser Hacking Jacket in CASHMERE and wool.
This is absolutely wonderful! Made by Turnbull & Asser, one of the premier Jermyn Street clothiers in London, the cloth of this beautiful jacket is 95% wool and 5% cashmere, giving it a lovely soft hand and a wonderful drape. The colourway does full justice to the cloth, being a wonderful puppytooth in a medley of autumnal browns. The jacket is cut as a traditional English sporting jacket, with a fully functional ticket pocket, twin vents, and working surgeons' cuffs. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined.
This beautiful jacket is in absolutely excellent condition; the top breast pocket is still uncut, as it the lower buttonhole on each cuff. The quality of jacket is absolutely superb, as befits its Turnbull and Asser origins, and so this is an absolutely steal at
just $39, or offer.
Tagged 42L. Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 32
62) BEAUTIFUL VINTAGE Lighter-weight Shepherd's Check Jacket--Two Button Sack!
This is absolutely lovely--a wonderful vintage 1960s jacket in lighter-weight wool, originally sold by "Cruise Casuals" of Miami, FL (founded in 1962). The cut of this jacket is beautifully 1960s, being a rare two-button sack with a lovely roll to its elegantly narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has the shallow twin vent that was becoming popular in the 1960s with the British Invasion of Beatles-inspired style. The colourway and patterning are also wonderful--a classic black and white shepherd's check with a bold berry red overcheck.
This jacket is cut from a lighter-weight wool--it was, after all, designed to be worn casually (when that word meant something different than it does today!) in Florida, or on cruises when the breeze became brick at night. It was Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $25, or offer--which really is a bargain for this vintage beauty!
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 28 3/4
63) LARGE Zegna Jacket--Made in Switzerland
This is lovely! Cut from beautifully soft dove grey wool with overchecking in cream and grey, this is fully canvassed and fully lined. It has lovely pick-stitching on the lapels. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with darting, this is unvented, in Flusser-approved fashion. It is in absolutely excellent condition. Made in Switzerland.
Asking just $39, or offer.
Tagged 60EU (50US), this measures:
Chest: 23 3/4
Sleeve: 27 3/4 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/2
Length: 34 1/4
64) Winter Plaid Jacket, designed by Hardy Amies of London.
Originally sold by Briggs of Providence--the upscale clothier for all of Rhode Island--this lovely heavy winter plaid jacket is a medly of slate-blue, browns, and creams. It is a current two button jacket with darting and twin vents. The buttons are all leather-clad metal-shanked football buttons. It features two hacking pockets--true to its British heritage, like the twin vent--and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has some minor loose stitching in the lining, and so is in Very Good/Excellent condition. It was Union made in the USA.
Asking just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 24 3/4
65) STUNNING Black Stewart Tartan Jacket from Dunn & Co. MADE IN BRITAIN
It really doesn't get much nicer than this! Cut from beautiful woolen cloth in the authentic Scottish tartan of Black Stewart, this jacket is absolutely perfect for holiday events, not the least because Black Stewart is traditionally a more formal tartan, and one that is becoming increasingly hard to find.
This could be worn casually or formally, with tuxedo trousers, formal dress, shirt, and a bow.
This jacket was made in Great Britain by Dunn & Co., the highly respected tailoring firm that are best known or their extremely well cut, extremely sturdy, and extremely traditional Harris Tweeds. (Indeed, in the 1950s and 1960s part of the rite of passage of becoming a successful American academic was to secure a visiting position at Oxford, Cambridge, Edinburgh, or St Andrews, and while there acquire a Dunn & Co. tweed!) The tailoring of this jacket is impeccable, living up to their excellent reputation. It is a traditional two button closure with subtle darts; fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has twin vents, as befits its British heritage. All of the buttons are brass, featuring a thistle motif--appropriately enough given the tartan from which this is cut! This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition--indeed, it was freshly dry cleaned and then stored in a cedar closet, so it's ready to wear.
Asking just $35, or offer.
Tagged 100XL, which translates to 39L. Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/8 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 32
66) BEAUTIFUL Barleycorn-esque tweed with vertical striping!
At first, I thought that this was clearly a Harris tweed--the colourway, patterning, heft and slight hariness as indicated Harris! But, it's not marked as such, as so it seems that it's not--although the quality of the cloth certainly rivals (and even exceeds) that of most Harris being produced today.
Despite not being Harris this tweed is wonderful! It's a lovely complex weave that's similar to barleycorn, although considerably more heathery. It features very subtle vertical striping in chestnut and sky blue, which are also heathered into the base tones of the jacket. There is also flecking of light pale lichen green.
The jacket itself is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts; it has three button cuffs. All of the buttons are leather-covered and metal shanked. The jacket appears to be half-canvassed, and is half-lined; it has a single centre vent. It's in excellent condition, except for a tiny weave fault in the crease where the sleeve joins the shoulder. This is very close to the seam, and so cannot be seen when worn; indeed,it can only really be seen when the sleeve is placed vertically above the jacket--a stance you'll never be in unless you're an acrobat and intend to wear this jacket while performing. (I found it when measuring, which is when the sleeves are moved upwards in this unnatural way.) You'll likely have never found this flaw, but it is there, and so this is in very Good/Excellent condition--and a steal at just $25, or offer.
This is a bargain for a jacket like this!
Measurements:
Chest: 20
Sleeve: 25 1/2
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30
PLUS, 36 other jackets can be found here:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/538196/...e-3-2-sacks-more-free-shipping-offers-welcome
AND 25 MORE (INCLUDING SOME FOR SPRING!) HERE:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/538660/...-of-morgan-stanley-a-reality-tv-star-and-more
As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING IN THE USA: International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at reduced cost.
Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!
Please PM with interest and offers!
37) GRAIL! Pure Cashmere 3/2 sack from Chipp!
Chipp needs no introduction here--they were one of the best tailors in New York (JFK was one of their clients), and THE Ivy Style tailor, being responsible for inventing the Ivy GTH staple of embroidered trousers.
Chipp's products are invariably absolutely first rate, and this beautiful cashmere 3/2 sack is no exception. Cut from pure cashmere--and not the thin mall stuff that's so common nowadays, but the wonderfully rich and soft cashmere that earned this cloth its reputation--in a lovely tan and cream bareleycorn weave, this jacket is cut as a classic 3/2 sack. It is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has lapped seams across the shoulders and down the center back. It features two button cuffs and a single center vent. It was, of course, Made in New York. It does have one small issue; the jetted pockets have started to sag slightly on the leading edge, as can be seen in the pictures. This could be rectified either by pressing, or, perhaps, by pressing and then basting shut to retain their shape. This is a common problem with jetted pockets, especially in fabrics such as cashmere, but because of this this jacket is in Very Good condition, and hence is a steal at just $40, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Tagged 40L. Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 31
38) MUSEUM QUALITY! Dartmouth College 3/2 sack Reunion jacket, Class of '56.
I don't use the term "museum quality" lightly, but this beautiful jacket most certainly qualifies as it is precisely the sort of jacket that was featured in the Fashion Institute of Technology's 2013 exhibition on "Ivy Style" as being quintessentially Ivy.
This is no ordinary jacket--this is a specially designed Ivy League Reunion jacket, made for a member of Dartmouth's Class of '56.
Reunion Jackets are rare, especially on the secondary market; very few are made, and these tend to be saved by the children and grandchildren of their original owners. And this is a lovely example. Judging by the interior Union label this was made for the Ten Year Reunion of Dartmouth's Class of '56, and it is a classic example of 1960s Ivy Style.
Cut as a traditional 1960s 3/2 sack, this has wonderfully narrow lapels with a lovely roll. It also features three patch pockets on the front, with the breast pocket featuring the "1956" embroidery that identifies this as a Reunion Jacket. It is, of course, cut from lovely wool flannel is classic "Dartmouth Green". This jacket is fully canvassed and half lined, and has a single center vent. It features three button cuffs, and was originally sold by James Campion, the traditional Ivy outfitters for Dartmouth's Ivy Set. It features three button cuffs and a single center vent, and has very natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and apart from some minor dusting on the collar crease--which will come out with dry-cleaning and, in any case, cannot be seen when worn--this is in absolutely excellent condition, despite being over 50 years old. But then, that's only to be expected--Reunion Jackets were worn very, very rarely, and cherished between outings.
Given the rarity and beauty of this jacket--as well as its museum quality--it's a bargain at just $55, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/8
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 32
39) BEAUTIFUL Shepherd's Check Jacket from Nick Hilton of Princeton
Nick Hilton is carrying on the tradition of Norman Hilton, and is now the only trad. clothiers left in Princeton with a connection to the Big Five clothiers of the Golden Age of Ivy Style. Cut from a lovely wool cloth with a wonderful hand and drape, this jacket is a lovely small shephard's check tweed in chestnut, moss, and tan. It is a three button front jacket with the hint of a lapel roll, subtle darts and two front flapped pockets. It has four button cuffs, is half-canvassed, and fully lined. It features twin vents. It was Made in the USA and is in absolutely excellent condition.
Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA for this beautiful jacket!
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 32
40) ELEGANT Made in Italy Black and Grey Plaid Jacket
This is a beautifully elegant jacket! Made in Italy, this is cut from pure virgin wool with a lovely and sophisticated plaid in greys and blacks. The jacket is a rare two button sack; it features jetted pockets and two button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and is unvented, in Flusser-approved style. The shoudlers are more padded than American jackets, in the Continental style. It is in excellent condition, and was Made in Italy.
Asking just $35, or offer.
Tagged 50R (US 40R), this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 30
41) BEAUTIFUL Made in Ireland Donegal Tweed Jacket
This is wonderful! Cut from genuine Donegal tweed in a classic dark brown herringbone flecked throughout with scarlet, moss green, and sky blue, the tweed of this beautiful jacket is like evening clouds over a peat bog at dusk on a November late afternoon, with the peat fire and Irish tea waiting in the cottage.
Cut as a classic Irish three button hacking jacket with subtle darting, this has twin vents and three button cuffs. It is half canvassed and fully lined, and features complementary metal-shanked buttons is burnished chestnut. It was, of course, Made in Ireland, and apart from the start of some minor sag to the interior pockets is in excellent condition.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 21 1/2
Length: 31 1/2
42) BEAUTIFUL 3/2 sack by Corbin for The English Shop of Princeton
Absolutely beautiful, this is the perfect tweed to transition into Spring! Cut as a classic 3/2 sack by Corbiin, this has a wonderfully fluid lapel roll. The tweed is a lovely classic glen plaid with a tan base, with lichen main checking and an overcheck in bracken and chestnut. This is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has a single centre vent. It has three button cuffs, and was, of course, Union Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition apart from a small rub by the leading edge of the interior pocket.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 28 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 33
43) S. Cohen of Montreal Jacket
A lovely and unusual jacket cut from Italian wool with vertical striping in dark blue-grey slate, bracken, and burnished chestnut, this is a contemporary two button model with darting and three button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and fully lined, and features plenty of pick stitching in the lining. It has twin vents--appropriately enough, since this is Cohen's "England" model! This was Union Made in Canada, and is in absolutely excellent (likely unworn) condition--the two front pockets are still basted shut!
Asking just $35, or offer.
Tagged 44R, this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+ 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/8
44) Southwick Tweed with RARE three patch pockets!
SOLD
In 1993 Southwick debuted its "Wickets" (derived from SouthWICK!) line of clothing. This was intended to be a slightly less formal range, designed to appeal to younger men in an effort to woo them into then purchasing Southwick's more traditional clothing. Alas, 1993 was right at the start of Grunge, and Southwick's view of "informal" was a far cry from that of Kurt Cobain. The effort was short-lived, and the brand elapsed in 2003.
Southwick's Wickets clothing is now very desirable, as it often featured elements that are both sought-after and rare--such as the three patch pockets on this lovely jacket! Cut from a a lovely heathery brown herringbone, his is a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts and four button cuffs. It is half-canvaased and fully lined, and has a single center vent. It was Made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 3/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 31 1/4
45) Basketweave Tweed by Barrister for Wallach's.
SOLD
Tweeds made for Wallach's by Barrister were the workhorses of their time--the East Coast Ivy equivalent of the British Dunn & Co. tweeds across the pond--although admittedly less hairy and robust than their British equivalents! This is a lovely example, being cut from a lovely basketweave tweed in charcoal, slate grey,a and petrol blue, with burnished chestnut leather-covered and metal shanked football buttons, a two button front, and subtle darting. It is half-lined, and features a single centre vent. It was Union made in the USA on February 21st, 1985--and is in excellent condition!
Asking just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 26 1/8 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 31 3/4
46) CLASSIC Brooks Brothers Navy Blazer
The trad classic! This is a nice example of a contemporary Brooks Brothers navy blazer. It has a two button front, and subtle darting; it is half-canvassed and fully lined with a single center vent. It features Brooks Brothers signature buttons from Waterbury of Conn.; three to each cuff. This was, of course, Union Made in the USA.
Although the two front pockets are still basted shut this is only in Good/Very Good condition. It has a very small pinhole on the underside of one sleeve, and some minor schmaltz on the front near the hem; this will almost certainly come out with dry cleaning. Given these flaws, this is just $26, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Tagged 48R. Measures:
Chest: 24 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 20 3/4
Length: 31 1/2
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/tweedydon/JACKETS%20FEB%2026%202017/th_DSC09001_zpsng9yzd2w.jpg[/IMG]
47) LOVELY Brooks Brothers "Brooksgate" Tweed. PERFECT FOR SPRING!
This is a truly lovely tweed! made for Brooks Brothers' vintage "Brooksgate" line-aimed at younger men, and intended to be the "gate" to Brooks Brothers' more mature lines--this is a lovely dove grey herringbone tweed with vertical striping in sepia rose pink and Spring sky blue. This jacket would be perfect for the cooler days of Sping! It is a contemporary two buton model with subtle darting. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It features chestnut leather-covered metal-shanked football buttons, with three to each cuff. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition.
Asking just $40, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 27 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 33 1/2
48) ICONIC Thinsulate Lined Tweed Jacket by LL Bean. SOLID LODEN GREEN!
SInce its founding in 1912 LL Bean has produced some iconic items of clothing. The most famous of these is likely the Maine Hunting Shoe, but this is closely followed by its saddle shoulder shetland sweaters, its Flying Tigers leather jackets, its Field jackets... and its Thinsulate lined tweed jackets, of which this is another wonderful example.
Cut from lovely thick heavyweight tweed (100% wool) in Loden green, this beautiful jacket has been designed to be utterly functional--as well as extremely stylish. Cut with a three button front and subtle darts, this beautiful jacket has the ever-desirable three patch pockets. It also has a fully functional throat latch to keep out the wind, and two deep interior pockets, one of which is zippered for security. It is unvented, as befits its status as jacket/outerwear, and is warmly lined in quilted Thinsulate.
This beautiful jacket was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 31
49) CLASSIC Harris Tweed in flecked grey herringbone
A beautiful, recent Harris tweed in classic grey herringbone that's flecked with moss green, sky blue, butter yellow, and pumpkin orange, this is a contemporary two button front model with subtle darts. It is likely unworn--the two front pockets are still basted shut, and there si the remnants of the basting thread at the vent! ! It is fully lined and has a single centre vent. It has four button cuffs; all of the buttons are rich burnished chestnut and metal shanked. It is in absolutely excellent condition, and a bargain at just $39, or offer.
Tagged 46L. Measures:
Chest: 23 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 21 1/4
Length: 32 1/4
50) CLASSIC Harris Tweed in grey and chestnut brown herringbone.
This is a lovely, classic Harris Tweed jacket in a grey and light brown herringbone which presents as classic grey herringbone. This features the classic vertical single-thread striping of traditional Harris herringbone, here in subtle sky blue, tea rose pink, and tan. The jacket is cut as a contemporary two button front jacket, with subtle darting and a single centre vent. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and features the traditional leather-covered, metal shanked football buttons that are the perfect complement to Harris Tweed. This was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $32, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
51) WONDERFUL Classic Harris Tweed with Patch Pockets from PBM, sold by DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ
PMB--Pincus Bros Maxwell--was founded in 1911, and is one of the great traditional American clothiers, making most of their items in Philadelphia, hence the Liberty Bell on their labels. This jacket was made by PBM for DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ.
Pennington found fame in Frederick Forsyth's novel, *Avenger*, where it was accurately described as a classic Revolutionary War small town, inhabited mainly by old-money families who preferred its quiet to the bustle of nearby Princeton. DiTorio's used to be THE classic old-money clothier of Pennington, specializing, like Langrock, in the Waspy Anglophile Ivy look. Like Langrock, DiTorio's is long gone, but some of its wares occasionally surface from the cedar closets that they have been carefully stored in--and this Harris Tweed jacket is a lovely case in point!
Made from a beautiful and increasingly rare basketweave in shades of grey, cream, and brown Harris Tweed cloth this lovely jacket is a contemporary two button front with darts. It is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single center vent and three button cuffs--all of the buttons are a lovely light chestnut leather, with meta shanks, as is proper for Harris Tweed. This jacket also features the ever-desirable patch pockets! It was, of course, Made in the USA--in Philadelphia!--and it is in excellent condition.
Asking just $35, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder 17 3/4
Length: 30
52) Lovely Brooks Brothers Jacket in Silk-Wool Blend with overchecking
This is a lovely recent jacket from Brooks Brothers! Although there is no fabric content listed this is almost certainly a silk-wool blend in a lovely golden-wheat barleycorn weave with subtle overchecking in seafoam green, blue, berry red, and burnt orange. This is half-canvassed and fully lined, and is cut as a contemporary two button front model with subtle darting. It has three button cuffs and a single center rear vent. It was Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition except for a small ink mark on the lining under the interior pocket, as shown. This is a bargain at
just $32, or offer.
Tagged 45L. Measurements:
Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/8
Length: 32
53) RARE Vintage Cashmere Two Button Sack Jacket
This is absolutely lovely! This jacket was sold by Hess's Department store of Allentown, Pa.. Hess's was one of the great American stores, being founded in 1897 and having several notable firsts. It was, for example, the first Department store to sell pure gold over the counter in 1974 when the sale of bullion was legalized, and the first store to carry the controversial "monokini"--a bikini without the top. They failed to sell even one. Hess is also known for its HUGE sign--the largest store sign outside New York City at the time--which weighed 8 tons and was 45 feet tall. Hess's acquired its name in 1968--when it changed from Hess Brothers--and so given this, the Union label, and the narrow lapels, this jacket was likely made in 1968 or 1969.
Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly cashmere, and not the thin mall stuff that's so common today, but the thick and luxurious cashmere of the 1960s that established this cloth as a true luxury item. The colourway and patterning of this jacket are beautifully late 1960s, being a mix of old gold and black with iridescent green thread woven throughout--although the effect is more conservative and classic than this description indicates!
Cut as a rare two button sack this is fully canvassed and fully lined. It features slanted hacking pockets and a twin vent, as well as two button cuffs. It features lovely late 1960s "down notch" narrow lapels! It has all of its original buttons intact, and is in Very Good/Excellent condition--only because I am conservative in rating vintage pieces. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA.
Asking just $40, or offer, for a lovely and rare cashmere two button sack!
Measurements:
Chest: 19 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/8 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 29
54) CLASSIC Basketweave Harris Tweed Jacket
This is a lovely classic Harris tweed is a wonderful basketweave in autumnal and winter browns, creams, and peat blacks! Cut as a contemporary two button model this is darted, half-canvassed and half-lined, with a single center vent. All of the buttons are leather-covered and metal shanked, and this was Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition apart from some slight rumpling from storage, and so this is in very Good/Excellent condition. As such, it is
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30
55) Vintage 1960s 3/2 sack Jacket
This is a lovely classic vintage 3/2 sack from the Golden Age of Ivy Style! Cut from a quintessentially 1960s dark green and brown wool cloth with vertical striping this has lovely narrow lapels and a lovely fluid lapel roll. It is half canvassed and half-lined, and has two button cuffs and a single center vent. It has very natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA. It could use a dry clean to freshen it up, and so it is in Very Good condition, and so is a steal at
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 1/2)
SHoulder: 17 1/8
Length: 29 1/2
56) GRAIL! VINTAGE Abercrombie & Fitch three button sack jacket in PURE CASHMERE
Abercrombie & Fitch is mainly known now for its teenager-oriented fashion, and its rather tacky ad. campaigns. It's also known for claiming that it's been an authentic American company since 1892. And, while the company that was the predecessor of the current A&F was founded then, for the current A&F to claim that it's just as authentically American the original is rather like Edward Hyde claiming to be just as authentically good as Dr. Henry Jeykll.
Founded in 1892, Abercrombie & Fitch started life as a sporting goods store specializing in gear that by its nature had to perform well--or else its owner could end up dead. Abercrombie & Fitch outfitted Charles Lindbergh for his solo flight across the Atlantic (and in the process produced a wonderful A1 jacket!), Teddy Roosevelt for his hunting trips, and Ernest Hemingway with fishing equipment, various items of manly outdoor clothing--and the shotgun that he used to kill himself.
By 1977, the company was in bankruptcy, and in 1978 it was purchased by a Houston-based sporting goods firm that intended to continue its august heritage. Unfortunately, there clearly was a reason for the demise of Abercrombie & Fitch in 1977, and the firm was again sold in 1988, to the The Limited. This fashion-orientated clothing firm that made the once-great clothing company a cash cow of cheap and fashionable teenage clothing.
A good indication of the difference between the current A&F and the original can be seen in the fact that in 1927 the company patented a new form of telescopic sight mounting for rifles, while in 2011 it patented a new type of flower topped perfume bottle.
THIS jacket dates from the era when it was still a leading purveyor of first-class clothing that was built to last. This is cut from extremely soft and luxurious cashmere at a time when cashmere really was a special fabric. (Old-style cashmere is very different from the cheap mall cashmere that's so prevalent today.) Both the hand and drape of this fabric are lovely!
The jacket is cut as a three button sack, with the ever-desirable three patch pockets. The lapels are beautifully narrow, as is proper for a mid-century jacket, and it has two button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It has lovely natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and carries the classic green-on-black Abercrombie & Fitch label.
This jacket does have two minor flaws, neither of which are very noticeable. First, there is a small snag on the lapel; this can hardly be seen, and would be a very easy repair to make for a competent reweaver. Second, there is some slight mars near the right-hand hem, by the pocket, as shown--again, this can hardly be seen when the jacket is worn. Because of these, the jacket is in Very Good condition, and so is a bargain at
just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30 1/2
57) Princeton University Store Silk Glen Plaid Jacket
Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly either all silk, or a silk-wool blend. Cut as a three button jacket with subtle darting this has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. Owing to its high silk content is has a lovely slubby texture which is well suited to the classic bold glen plaid patterning in black, slate grey, and cream, with forest green and golden sunset overchecking. This jacket was Made in the USA, and was originally sold at the Princeton University Store. This is in excellent condition (the interior label will be resewn before shipping) and is a bargain at
just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32
58) GRAIL! 1954 Southwick Tweed, made for The Andover Shop, Mass.!
SOLD
This is a wonderful jacket, with a wonderful provenance!
The Andover Shop was founded in 1948 in Andover, Mass., with an eye to selling traditional American clothing to the clientele of nearby Philips Academy. (A second shop was opened in 1953, by Harvard--for obvious reasons.) They also make bespoke and offer MTM clothing--like this wonderful jacket, which was made by Southwick and completed on 21st October, 1954.
Despite being over 60 years old this jacket could easily pass as being one made in the 1990s, and carefully looked after. (Note that from my perspective a jacket made in the 1990s is something that's fairly recent!) It's in absolutely excellent condition--as you'd expect, since someone who buys bespoke at The Andover Shop is likely to be someone who cares about clothes, and looks after them; and well-made tweeds repay care with considerable longevity!
And this jacket is wonderful. The tweed is absolutely beautiful. At first sight, it appears to be a dark brown herringbone with vertical striping in rich dark chestnut. However, closer examination reveals that the tweed consists of herringbone striping with the differing diagonals both different lengths and separated by the vertical striping--a lovely, classic, yet rare tweed.
Cut as a sack--undarted--as you'd expect from The Andover Shop, this is not a 3/2 jacket. Instead, it has a three button front with just the HINT of a lapel roll at the top button. It has two button cuffs, period-correct narrow lapels, a lapped central seam down the back and a single hook vent. It has very natural shoulders. It is half-canvassed and fully lined in a beautiful yellow lining with red and Royal blue neats. It was, of course, Made in the USA.
Asking just $49, or offer--a steal for a jacket of this beauty, quality, and with this provenance!
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 32 1/2
59) MADE IN ITALY wool and cashmere jacket.
Cut from a lovely golden-wheat barleycorn cloth, this jacket is a blend of 80% wool and 20% cashmere. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a three button front with subtle darts, and is unvented, in Flusser approved style. Made in Italy, and in excellent condition.
Just $24, or offer.
Tagged 40S. Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/8
Length: 29
60) VINTAGE Autumnal Jacket by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--when Trenton was good!
This jacket was originally sold by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--back when Trenton was FAR wealthier and WASP than its neighbour, Princeton. F.W. Donnelly was THE exclusive men's haberdashers, and considered itself to cater to a far more sophisticated and worldly clientele that their Princeton rivals, such as Langrock or The English Shop, with their reliance on undergraduates and academics. Donnelly's catered to the political elite of New Jersey--indeed, Frederick Donnelly, the owner of Donnelly's, was mayor of Trenton for 20 years, from 1911 to 1931.
This jacket is a lovely example of the wares purveyed to Trenton's political elite. Dating from the 1960s this is cut as a two button jacket with subtle darts from lovely autumnal cloth with overchecking. This has two button cuffs and a single center vents; it also features lovely narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and was, of course, Union Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition, and a steal at
just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 33 1/2
61) GORGEOUS Turnbull & Asser Hacking Jacket in CASHMERE and wool.
This is absolutely wonderful! Made by Turnbull & Asser, one of the premier Jermyn Street clothiers in London, the cloth of this beautiful jacket is 95% wool and 5% cashmere, giving it a lovely soft hand and a wonderful drape. The colourway does full justice to the cloth, being a wonderful puppytooth in a medley of autumnal browns. The jacket is cut as a traditional English sporting jacket, with a fully functional ticket pocket, twin vents, and working surgeons' cuffs. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined.
This beautiful jacket is in absolutely excellent condition; the top breast pocket is still uncut, as it the lower buttonhole on each cuff. The quality of jacket is absolutely superb, as befits its Turnbull and Asser origins, and so this is an absolutely steal at
just $39, or offer.
Tagged 42L. Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 32
62) BEAUTIFUL VINTAGE Lighter-weight Shepherd's Check Jacket--Two Button Sack!
This is absolutely lovely--a wonderful vintage 1960s jacket in lighter-weight wool, originally sold by "Cruise Casuals" of Miami, FL (founded in 1962). The cut of this jacket is beautifully 1960s, being a rare two-button sack with a lovely roll to its elegantly narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has the shallow twin vent that was becoming popular in the 1960s with the British Invasion of Beatles-inspired style. The colourway and patterning are also wonderful--a classic black and white shepherd's check with a bold berry red overcheck.
This jacket is cut from a lighter-weight wool--it was, after all, designed to be worn casually (when that word meant something different than it does today!) in Florida, or on cruises when the breeze became brick at night. It was Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $25, or offer--which really is a bargain for this vintage beauty!
Measurements:
Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 28 3/4
63) LARGE Zegna Jacket--Made in Switzerland
This is lovely! Cut from beautifully soft dove grey wool with overchecking in cream and grey, this is fully canvassed and fully lined. It has lovely pick-stitching on the lapels. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with darting, this is unvented, in Flusser-approved fashion. It is in absolutely excellent condition. Made in Switzerland.
Asking just $39, or offer.
Tagged 60EU (50US), this measures:
Chest: 23 3/4
Sleeve: 27 3/4 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/2
Length: 34 1/4
64) Winter Plaid Jacket, designed by Hardy Amies of London.
Originally sold by Briggs of Providence--the upscale clothier for all of Rhode Island--this lovely heavy winter plaid jacket is a medly of slate-blue, browns, and creams. It is a current two button jacket with darting and twin vents. The buttons are all leather-clad metal-shanked football buttons. It features two hacking pockets--true to its British heritage, like the twin vent--and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has some minor loose stitching in the lining, and so is in Very Good/Excellent condition. It was Union made in the USA.
Asking just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 24 3/4
65) STUNNING Black Stewart Tartan Jacket from Dunn & Co. MADE IN BRITAIN
It really doesn't get much nicer than this! Cut from beautiful woolen cloth in the authentic Scottish tartan of Black Stewart, this jacket is absolutely perfect for holiday events, not the least because Black Stewart is traditionally a more formal tartan, and one that is becoming increasingly hard to find.
This could be worn casually or formally, with tuxedo trousers, formal dress, shirt, and a bow.
This jacket was made in Great Britain by Dunn & Co., the highly respected tailoring firm that are best known or their extremely well cut, extremely sturdy, and extremely traditional Harris Tweeds. (Indeed, in the 1950s and 1960s part of the rite of passage of becoming a successful American academic was to secure a visiting position at Oxford, Cambridge, Edinburgh, or St Andrews, and while there acquire a Dunn & Co. tweed!) The tailoring of this jacket is impeccable, living up to their excellent reputation. It is a traditional two button closure with subtle darts; fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has twin vents, as befits its British heritage. All of the buttons are brass, featuring a thistle motif--appropriately enough given the tartan from which this is cut! This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition--indeed, it was freshly dry cleaned and then stored in a cedar closet, so it's ready to wear.
Asking just $35, or offer.
Tagged 100XL, which translates to 39L. Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/8 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 32
66) BEAUTIFUL Barleycorn-esque tweed with vertical striping!
At first, I thought that this was clearly a Harris tweed--the colourway, patterning, heft and slight hariness as indicated Harris! But, it's not marked as such, as so it seems that it's not--although the quality of the cloth certainly rivals (and even exceeds) that of most Harris being produced today.
Despite not being Harris this tweed is wonderful! It's a lovely complex weave that's similar to barleycorn, although considerably more heathery. It features very subtle vertical striping in chestnut and sky blue, which are also heathered into the base tones of the jacket. There is also flecking of light pale lichen green.
The jacket itself is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts; it has three button cuffs. All of the buttons are leather-covered and metal shanked. The jacket appears to be half-canvassed, and is half-lined; it has a single centre vent. It's in excellent condition, except for a tiny weave fault in the crease where the sleeve joins the shoulder. This is very close to the seam, and so cannot be seen when worn; indeed,it can only really be seen when the sleeve is placed vertically above the jacket--a stance you'll never be in unless you're an acrobat and intend to wear this jacket while performing. (I found it when measuring, which is when the sleeves are moved upwards in this unnatural way.) You'll likely have never found this flaw, but it is there, and so this is in very Good/Excellent condition--and a steal at just $25, or offer.
This is a bargain for a jacket like this!
Measurements:
Chest: 20
Sleeve: 25 1/2
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30
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