SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Burzan]

I got my email saying they've arrived at the Toronto store a few days ago. Going today to get them measured for hemming!

Ahh nice, I guess mine will hopefully ship out this week. Really looking forward to everyone's thoughts on them.

 

[thetallone]

@spiermackay - I order a bunch of custom shirts recently and I'm overall very please with the fit. I'm guessing there is some variation in dimensions (tolerances) with different fabric. I'm curious what variation is expected?

After one wash in cold water and ironing, the variation in measurements between my 8 most recent shirts was as follows:

• Pit-to-pit chest measurements vary by up to 1"
• Waist measurements vary by up to 1.25"
• Shoulder measurements vary by up to .625"
• Sleeve length measurements vary by up to .625"

Do you purposely dimension some fabrics larger/smaller based on their weight? Some of these variances are leading to shirts that are getting smaller than desired, so how should I specify my size preferences when they were all built to the same spec sheet?

Sorry for the needy question, I'm just trying to zero in on any final tweaks so I know what to expect in future orders. Thanks!

 

[yeknal]

I just got a shipping notification from the preorder this afternoon.

Ahh nice, I guess mine will hopefully ship out this week. Really looking forward to everyone's thoughts on them.

 

[Burzan]

I just got a shipping notification from the preorder this afternoon.

Same here!

 

[Burzan]

Now that I'm fully obsessed with the new denim shirt, how long will we have to wait for the 2 remaining washes?

 

[spiermackay]

@spiermackay - I order a bunch of custom shirts recently and I'm overall very please with the fit. I'm guessing there is some variation in dimensions (tolerances) with different fabric. I'm curious what variation is expected?

After one wash in cold water and ironing, the variation in measurements between my 8 most recent shirts was as follows:

• Pit-to-pit chest measurements vary by up to 1"
• Waist measurements vary by up to 1.25"
• Shoulder measurements vary by up to .625"
• Sleeve length measurements vary by up to .625"

Do you purposely dimension some fabrics larger/smaller based on their weight? Some of these variances are leading to shirts that are getting smaller than desired, so how should I specify my size preferences when they were all built to the same spec sheet?

Sorry for the needy question, I'm just trying to zero in on any final tweaks so I know what to expect in future orders. Thanks!

We have 1/4" tolerances on the half measurements as well as the shoulder, sleeve and length. This tolerance is +/- from the desired measurement. So it is entirely possible for one shirt to be +1/4" from x, and another to be -1/4" from x, result being 1/2" different from one another. Factor in shrinkage of anywhere from 1-3% on standard fabrics and it can be slightly more post wash. That said, a shirt should not be so close fitting to begin with that post wash it's unwearable/uncomfortable.

 

[MrGimpy]

The new khakis arrived this week and are pretty solid. The cloth is soft and substantial without being overly thick. Really liking the warmth of the copper colour.

As is often the case with Spier & Mackay, they feel much more expensive than they are.

 

[spiermackay]

The new khakis arrived this week and are pretty solid. The cloth is soft and substantial without being overly thick. Really liking the warmth of the copper colour.

As is often the case with Spier & Mackay, they feel much more expensive than they are.

Awesome. We're really happy with how they turned out. The fabric is woven from a 2 Ply Egyptian Yarn, then we had them lightly sanded and garment washed, but not overly so. Still can be worn for the office, or dressed down casually. Top them off with genuine horn buttons, tight stitching and open seams for easy alterations, you'll be hard pressed to find anything even remotely close in value.

 

[spiermackay]

Now that I'm fully obsessed with the new denim shirt, how long will we have to wait for the 2 remaining washes?

Good question. I'm as eager as you are. We have so much in the pipeline right now, we have to find a spot to slot these into production.

 

[iviustang50h]

We have 1/4" tolerances on the half measurements as well as the shoulder, sleeve and length. This tolerance is +/- from the desired measurement. So it is entirely possible for one shirt to be +1/4" from x, and another to be -1/4" from x, result being 1/2" different from one another. Factor in shrinkage of anywhere from 1-3% on standard fabrics and it can be slightly more post wash. That said, a shirt should not be so close fitting to begin with that post wash it's unwearable/uncomfortable.

Regarding your last statement, how much tolerance (space) do you recommend leaving in the chest and waste when comparing body measurements to actual garment measurements?

 

[spiermackay]

Regarding your last statement, how much tolerance (space) do you recommend leaving in the chest and waste when comparing body measurements to actual garment measurements?

For a slim fit, no less than 2" at the chest and 3" at the waist. I personally keep 2.5 at the chest and 3.5-4" at the waist.

 

[iviustang50h]

For a slim fit, no less than 2" at the chest and 3" at the waist. I personally keep 2.5 at the chest and 3.5-4" at the waist.

Thank you. So with that said, if I were to take advantage of your MTM program using body measurements, would your tailors then ask me how much extra space I wanted, or do they just use set numbers (such as the extra 2" chest and 3" waste you mentioned)?

Thanks in advance.

 

[spiermackay]

Thank you. So with that said, if I were to take advantage of your MTM program using body measurements, would your tailors then ask me how much extra space I wanted, or do they just use set numbers (such as the extra 2" chest and 3" waste you mentioned)?

Thanks in advance.

If you provide body measurements and select the fit (slim, contemporary, classic), we have our own set of rules that we follow for each fit.

You can advise how much ease you want and we can follow that.

 

[Burzan]

Awesome. We're really happy with how they turned out. The fabric is woven from a 2 Ply Egyptian Yarn, then we had them lightly sanded and garment washed, but not overly so. Still can be worn for the office, or dressed down casually. Top them off with genuine horn buttons, tight stitching and open seams for easy alterations, you'll be hard pressed to find anything even remotely close in value.

Yeah I considered all my options in regards to new chinos and even factoring in the alterations I couldn't find anything near the value of them. Was happy to buy every color and I hope they work out. I should have them in hand next week and I'll wash up my favorite color and begin the alterations on the first pair.

Only color I was really hoping for that wasn't offered was a lighter color, say more like the tan cotton suit. Will that pair of trousers be available as separates like the other suits have been?

Good question. I'm as eager as you are. We have so much in the pipeline right now, we have to find a spot to slot these into production.

Damn, so not in production yet haha. Guess a little while still then.

 

[CanadaCal]

Recent MTO jacket from Portofino book. 3R2 spalla shoulder. Wool silk linen.