SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[breakaway01]

You can let out the waist and lower the collar on the 40L. Both are considered easy jacket alterations.

I don’t think that lowering the collar is the right alteration for the 40L but will leave that to the tailors here.

 

[SteveMc]

I don’t think that lowering the collar is the right alteration for the 40L but will leave that to the tailors here.

I also don't know if it's required or not. I only mentioned it because the OP considered this alteration.

 

[breakaway01]

I also don't know if it's required or not. I only mentioned it because the OP considered this alteration.

As a non-tailor, think that the problem is that the 40L jacket is too tight across the shoulder blades. Harder to address after the fact. Think that S&M is not the right choice for the OP unfortunately.

 

[JTrent82]

Ordered a bunch suits and jackets from S&M to try out different cuts, and I like this reddish herringbone sportcoat a lot, but I'm not sure if I can actually make any of the stuff I ordered work with my body.
Thoughts on which of these will be closer to being tailored to fit?

40L:
View attachment 2089521

42L
View attachment 2089525

The 40L is closer in the shoulders, but the buttons are pulling more and it seems like it would need the collar dropped more.

42L seems too big in the shoulders, but the button pulls less, and the collar wouldn't need to be lowered as much (although I think my shoulders were pulled back a bit in the rear photo so it is harder to see.

Both bow out a bit at the lapel and need some level of collar lower, but that's par for the course for me. Wish they made a 41L stock size...

I think you may have square shoulders- MTO may be your only viable option.

 

[CLH03]

I think you may have square shoulders- MTO may be your only viable option.

Yeah definitely not an OTR fit by any shot. Those shoulders are never going to work

 

[otc]

FWIW, the OTR suits I do have were made to mostly work in that area by lowering the collar (which I understand is a pretty common alteration). You are right that it is my square shoulders--my shirts can easliy end up with the same problem.

Unfortunately Suitsupply no longer makes the cuts that worked for me, and nothing I have tried on recently has been even close.

 

[capablebedroom]

I like the fit of this polo coat in the shoulders and chest but I think the sleeves and waist need to be taken in quite a bit. Would a tailor be able to do that or am I better off returning? I do want to retain a very relaxed fit.

 

[Gil_Pender]

I like the fit of this polo coat in the shoulders and chest but I think the sleeves and waist need to be taken in quite a bit. Would a tailor be able to do that or am I better off returning? I do want to retain a very relaxed fit.

This looks a size too big. What size is it and what is your suit size? Very relaxed in a double breasted is a harder look to pull off than say in a balmacaan.

 

[ppk]

I like the fit of this polo coat in the shoulders and chest but I think the sleeves and waist need to be taken in quite a bit. Would a tailor be able to do that or am I better off returning? I do want to retain a very relaxed fit.

If you know a good alterations tailor, sleeves and waist are usually no big deal.

 

[classicoutfits]

I like the fit of this polo coat in the shoulders and chest but I think the sleeves and waist need to be taken in quite a bit. Would a tailor be able to do that or am I better off returning? I do want to retain a very relaxed fit.

I think it is big overall

 

[capablebedroom]

This looks a size too big. What size is it and what is your suit size? Very relaxed in a double breasted is a harder look to pull off than say in a balmacaan.

This coat is 46; my suit/sport coat size is typically 42. 44 in the polo coat would have been better but that size is sold out. I also thought the chest and shoulders in the size 44 might be tight based on comparing the listed measurements to those of an overcoat I own. I'll probably return.

 

[St1X]

This coat is 46; my suit/sport coat size is typically 42. 44 in the polo coat would have been better but that size is sold out. I also thought the chest and shoulders in the size 44 might be tight based on comparing the listed measurements to those of an overcoat I own. I'll probably return.

Look at 44s instead?!

 

[capablebedroom]

This looks a size too big. What size is it and what is your suit size? Very relaxed in a double breasted is a harder look to pull off than say in a balmacaan.

Do you think tailoring could fix it? For examples of the looser fit I was going for:

 

[ericgereghty]

It's not the easiest to tell from your photos, but I don't think it's DRAMATICALLY oversized from those pics

 

[Rhodia]

Do you think tailoring could fix it? For examples of the looser fit I was going for:

I personally would not want a tailor doing major surgery on an overcoat. It's rare that a manufacturer makes something so slim that a two size jump is required (unless it's for the Japanese market). Point is, one issue might is how large it appears to be around the bottom portion of the coat.

I would also note that based on the length of the sleeves, this type of coat may not be ideal for your height. At least not in the length you have here. How long is it? If you're under 5'10", anything beyond your knees risks making you look even shorter and possibly like you're wearing your father's coat (so to speak).

At least two of the three gentlemen in the pictures you posted are tall, at least 6'0" it seems to me.