SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[TheLawBeard]

Is this really a WSL? The description says 80 silk 20 linen. I'd probably order this if it's a WSL.

edit: Please tell us how it breathes when you get a chance to test it out.

It's silk/linen. The E Thomas label says WSL but it's SL, no wool.

Unfortunately, I'm now pretty sure it'll be going back for fit reasons. I'm going to ask my tailor first but the fit is "different" compared to my other Spier purchases in this size. The armholes don't feel great but also it fits a bit different around my neck. The Emerald label quality is VERY nice though. Spier is definitely trying to step up into the more "sartorial features" with it.

 

[sargeinaz]

That’s a shame about the fit issues because that’s a super sharp sport jacket. Love that fabric.

 

[taxgenius]

I am looking to get some fit feedback on the this 40R contemporary Navy Hopsack E. Thomas sports coat. The front looks pretty good and the sleeve pitch is clean. The back however does not look great... Since the jacket is unlined and I have not removed the stitching on the vents, the jacket is catching at my lower back (jeans are also not helping). I also have a fair amount of "rippling" between the shoulder blades (see side shot photo). I am not sure how much of this can be tailored/corrected? Would it be worth trying the slim fit or a different size (40R contemporary is the only jacket I have tried on from S&M)? I appreciate any feedback people are willing to offer.

Interestingly we are the same size and both have a dropped right shoulder, which is what's causing the back to not be clean. I think a competent tailor could fix the shoulder issue but it won't be cheap.

 

[7_rocket]

Hello. For those who have purchased the chukka boots. The laces are obviously way too long. Where did you get replacements? Brooks Brothers seems to not have the dark brown in stock currently.

 

[thisfits]

Hello. For those who have purchased the chukka boots. The laces are obviously way too long. Where did you get replacements? Brooks Brothers seems to not have the dark brown in stock currently.

I own the chukkas, and don't recall the laces seeming too long.

I usually turn to Allen Edmonds or (shame, shame) random Amazon sellers for laces.

 

[Shawl Lapel]

Hello Spier and Mackay experts, looking for some advice on a possible MTM black tuxedo as they don't have any OTR in stock. I am 5 foot 7 inches and 150 lbs.

1) Will likely go for peak labels and asked for a 9.5cm instead of their stock (I think it was 10cm). Is this an appropriate width or should I go narrower? (I saw some advice to go even 9 cm for someone bigger than me: (46) Tuxedo Advice for 5'11" 170lb guy | Styleforum)
Measure from armpit to edge of sleeve (width of upper arm from the front) for a proportional lapel width. Could go bigger for more effect if you wanted. What's the dimension you got?

2) This probably doesn't matter since it's black but asked for pick stitching on the collar and jacket bottom (not the lapels), any problems with that?
Should be ok.

3) Cummerbund vs Evening Waistcoat? was going to get waistcoat originally. I think I also read somewhere that for a tux the waistcoat opening should be lower then for a suit waistcoat, should I ask for any specific adjustments to their stock waistcoat? Lapel or no lapel?
Are Spier's waistcoats cut for a tuxedo or business suit? If it's not a low u-cut vest, I'd go cummberbund. If they have a proper waistcoat lapel is personal preference.

4) I was told that usually a waistcoat back uses the same color lining as the suit jacket lining, but that seems a bit flashy if I got a colored lining for the jacket. Is it normal to match them if I get the navy or burgundy lining?
🤷‍♂️

5) I'm just reading that belts are not usually worn with tuxedos, but I wasn't told that when picking the option. So I shouldn't get belt loops then?
No belt loops. Have buttons sewn in for braces (and go buy some nice braces from Albert Thurston or Trafalgar). Tuxedo pants should be cut with a higher rise compared to regular trousers, they're meant to be worn with braces.

6) I will be wearing a flower, should I get a button hole in the lapel?
Sure.

Thanks for any help!

Replied above.

 

[dapperclassic]

The armholes don't feel great

Could you elaborate on what's not so good about the armholes, is it related to them being too high since they were raised in FW21?

Since this SC appears to have the lowered breast pocket, I was expecting it to have been made from the revised pattern with the lowered armhole too.

 

[TheLawBeard]

Could you elaborate on what's not so good about the armholes, is it related to them being too high since they were raised in FW21?

Since this SC appears to have the lowered breast pocket, I was expecting it to have been made from the revised pattern with the lowered armhole too.

Note: this is the first SC I’ve bought since any changes. The armholes feel “smaller” to me. I just don’t feel like I move well in them. Will have further info on this Tuesday. Still having my tailor check it out first.

 

[gonnagetmine]

I am looking to get some fit feedback on the this 40R contemporary Navy Hopsack E. Thomas sports coat. The front looks pretty good and the sleeve pitch is clean. The back however does not look great... Since the jacket is unlined and I have not removed the stitching on the vents, the jacket is catching at my lower back (jeans are also not helping). I also have a fair amount of "rippling" between the shoulder blades (see side shot photo). I am not sure how much of this can be tailored/corrected? Would it be worth trying the slim fit or a different size (40R contemporary is the only jacket I have tried on from S&M)? I appreciate any feedback people are willing to offer.

What's your height, weight? I would try 40L Cont. Hard to tell with jeans but seems like buttoning point is too high and body length is short. Sleeves would have to go up a lot.

 

[stubbsj20]

What's your height, weight? I would try 40L Cont. Hard to tell with jeans but seems like buttoning point is too high and body length is short. Sleeves would have to go up a lot.

I am 5’11”, about 180-185 pounds. I agree the jeans don’t help.

 

[gonnagetmine]

I am 5’11”, about 180-185 pounds. I agree the jeans don’t help.

40R Cont is probably right then, and it's just the jeans and basting throwing things off. I wouldn't go slim though.

 

[stubbsj20]

Interestingly we are the same size and both have a dropped right shoulder, which is what's causing the back to not be clean. I think a competent tailor could fix the shoulder issue but it won't be cheap.

40R Cont is probably right then, and it's just the jeans and basting throwing things off. I wouldn't go slim though.

Thank you taxgenius and gonnagetmine for the feedback.

 

[stubbsj20]

Interestingly we are the same size and both have a dropped right shoulder, which is what's causing the back to not be clean. I think a competent tailor could fix the shoulder issue but it won't be cheap.

Have you ever tried S&M’s MTO shoulder adjustment options to account for your dropped right shoulder? Or, have you always relied on a tailor to make the necessary adjustments?

 

[Click821]

Anyone got a real world pic of the neopolitan tobacco seersucker suit? Looks great in pics

 

[BlueSteel]

Hi Gents!

Anyone have a pic wearing a S&M double-breasted suit? I saw other posters made this request before, but very little response. I think I only saw one poster show pics of his MTO DB suit in grey.

Do any of you have a S&M RTW DB suit you could share a fit pic of?

Thanks!