SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[flvinny521]

@spiermackay Are you around, Rick? I haven't heard from you after my last couple of e-mails.

 

[Wilson13]

Just received my test shirt of a four-shirt MTM order. For a first try, it's pretty close. Would like some feedback on a couple issues, though:

1. It's a little tight in the upper chest/ shoulders. I actually think it's solely due to the shoulders being too small. Was thinking to add about 3/8" or 1/2" to total shoulders width.

2. I would like the collar to be a little more open and to tuck under the jacket lapel (see how it is sitting a little on top of the lapel?). The collar points measure 3.75", so I don't think their length is the issue, but maybe the buttons could be moved out slightly.

Any feedback on the above is appreciated.

 

[Spex]

^^ I see, like myself, you've gone for a fairly long shirt, for ones that you would tuck in. Kudos.

It does look very slim over all, not just in the shoulders and chest, but althroughout the body. You may want to wash it a couple of times and see how that further affects the fit.

With respect to the collar, logically the buttons would have to lie beneath the lapels in order to hide the points, so I think you are right about that. I think they changed the button down collar this past year and I'm not sure what I think of it. I've only ordered 2 custom BDC shirts, about a year apart, an I think I like the older one better (both are 3.25" long). It's almost like the collar band has become higher.

 

[Wilson13]



^^ I see, like myself, you've gone for a fairly long shirt, for ones that you would tuck in. Kudos.

It does look very slim over all, not just in the shoulders and chest, but althroughout the body. You may want to wash it a couple of times and see how that further affects the fit.

With respect to the collar, logically the buttons would have to lie beneath the lapels in order to hide the points, so I think you are right about that. I think they changed the button down collar this past year and I'm not sure what I think of it. I've only ordered 2 custom BDC shirts, about a year apart, an I think I like the older one better (both are 3.25" long). It's almost like the collar band has become higher.

Thanks for the feedback. With respect to the collar, I provided measurements and a picture, so please don't take this collar to reflect their standard BD (though, this is not exactly what I was wanting - will have to make some adjustments). Also, I didn't articulate it well, but I was really meaning to say I wanted the sides of the collar to sit better underneath the lapel, not the collar points.

As far as fit, I did ask for the cloth to be washed and dried before cutting, but either way, good idea to wash the shirt before confirming the rest of the order.

 

[White Lotus]

That's what you need.

Which would be fine.

I got a 38S Contemporary instead. The length is 28.1 inches. The 38R Contemporary length is 29.5 which would be longer than I would like. I measured my length and its suppose to be 29.3 which is exactly the length of the 38R Slim Fit Suit. My legs are about the same length as my torso but my calves are big. Wouldn't a longer jacket make me look shorter because of that?

 

[dappercanadian]

I got a 38S Contemporary instead. The length is 28.1 inches. The 38R Contemporary length is 29.5 which would be longer than I would like. I measured my length and its suppose to be 29.3 which is exactly the length of the 38R Slim Fit Suit. My legs are about the same length as my torso but my calves are big. Wouldn't a longer jacket make me look shorter because of that?

the. length. on. the. 38R. slim. was. perfect.

.2" longer would not be a noticeable difference in length. 1.2" shorter would be.

 

[White Lotus]

the. length. on. the. 38R. slim. was. perfect.

.2" longer would not be a noticeable difference in length. 1.2" shorter would be.

I feel like its too long for me or is it something I've to get used to since I might become a fashion victim due to preference for shorter jackets?

 

[DFWWingnut]

Not my graphic but a good guide for sportcoat/blazer length.

 

[dappercanadian]

I feel like its too long for me or is it something I've to get used to since I might become a fashion victim due to preference for shorter jackets?

It's not too long for you, but style all comes down to preference.

 

[dtgsigns]



No, the length looks spot on. Way too many jackets these days are too short. Shorten the sleeves and let the chest out just so slightly, and then you'll be good to go.

I don't think chests can be let out. Back yes, but never heard of a tailor being able to let out extra fabric in chest area.

S&M, your input?

 

[dtgsigns]

Double post

 

[White Lotus]

It's not too long for you, but style all comes down to preference.

I got the longer one in regular. I'm on Styleforum after all.

 

[facet]



I got the longer one in regular. I'm on Styleforum after all.

How tall are you?

 

[White Lotus]

How tall are you?

5'6 1/2 150 lbs.

 

[Mr Clemson]

No, the length looks spot on. Way too many jackets these days are too short. Shorten the sleeves and let the chest out just so slightly, and then you'll be good to go.

I don't think chests can be let out. Back yes, but never heard of a tailor being able to let out extra fabric in chest area.

S&M, your input?

You make the chest bigger by letting out fabric from the back. At least that's my understanding.