SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[AntiHero84]

These are Alpha sized and a Massdrop Exclusive. We don't stock these. Follow the size chart. The collars/cuffs are completely unlined. The back has a box pleat and locker loop. The back of the collar has a button. More of a traditional oxford, and a bit shorter to wear better untucked.

Locker loop... 3rd collar button... I'm sold. Thanks for the response!

 

[adelorenzo]

Just want to shout out to Tim, not only is he a fashionable dude he knows his tailoring. I was in the downtown shop a couple weeks back. I brought in my VBC Neapolitan suit that I had taken in somewhat at a local tailor but still wasn't fitting well. Also bought myself one of the navy hopsack blazers. Tim spent a lot of time with me, stuck me full of pins and I left the stuff with them and headed back up north. Received everything yesterday and the fit is absolutely perfect now. I'll plan to post some pics once I get the wrinkles out but I am super happy with how everything is fitting.

 

[evilmerino]

It is a work in progress when it comes to special requests. It's something that a good majority of MTM companies will shy away from simply because of this reason. I'm pretty sure Propercloth does not accommodate and their business is humming along just fine. Luxie has an advantage as you are communicating directly with the factory itself. With us, at the moment, you communicate to someone in our shop or online. That then gets translated again via our MTM manager, then again once it reaches the factory. Any bump in the chain and you get something that may not be 100%. That said, we're looking at how to better improve this. I'm not defending this in any way, we can do better and believe me we are working hard with the factory to ensure clearer communication and proper interpretation of measurement points and requests.

Appreciate the very honest take on this. I'm in the process of my first S&M MTM commission and so far Michael has been extremely professional. Time will tell how it eventually turns out, but I feel like the "lost in translation" aspect is something customers may not be aware of when issues crop up. Glad to hear you're working on continuous improvement for the overall process. Also - this thread is an overall very positive one due to how involved your team is here.

 

[Wilson13]

Pretty clean fit in the front for the Neapolitan but some issues with the back. No real bump behind collar but some pulling, probably exacerbated by uneven shoulders.

Can this be resolved by letting out the back seam or am I looking at more major surgery?

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It looks like you need to shorten the back slightly (i.e., bring it up at the collar, forgive me if my tailoring terminology is incorrect). Doesn't look too tight, but you're the judge on that. Not sure about the diagonal ripple caused by your lower shoulder, though it seems a competent tailor can fix these issues with relative ease.

 

[induere_to]

Just want to shout out to Tim, not only is he a fashionable dude he knows his tailoring. I was in the downtown shop a couple weeks back. I brought in my VBC Neapolitan suit that I had taken in somewhat at a local tailor but still wasn't fitting well. Also bought myself one of the navy hopsack blazers. Tim spent a lot of time with me, stuck me full of pins and I left the stuff with them and headed back up north. Received everything yesterday and the fit is absolutely perfect now. I'll plan to post some pics once I get the wrinkles out but I am super happy with how everything is fitting.

So glad to hear! I was actually thinking about this the other day and was meaning to call you to ask how everything turned out but got a little distracted with the hustle and bustle in the shop.

Glad you received everything in a timely manner as well. Stop by any time you’re in Toronto and I’d be more than happy to alter anything you need done. It is my absolute pleasure. Maybe we’ll look at some MTM options in the future.

 

[induere_to]

Huddersfield seersucker MTM:

 

[marker2037]

Pretty clean fit in the front for the Neapolitan but some issues with the back. No real bump behind collar but some pulling, probably exacerbated by uneven shoulders.

Can this be resolved by letting out the back seam or am I looking at more major surgery?

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Nothing major at all, relax. So many gents around here are always looking for the "no crease, no lines" look on light, thin fabrics and it's almost impossible to get that look unless you're wearing tweeds and heavier stuff that has more weight and more natural drape.

 

[marker2037]

Huddersfield seersucker MTM:

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Looks great!

 

[adelorenzo]

Glad you received everything in a timely manner as well. Stop by any time you’re in Toronto and I’d be more than happy to alter anything you need done. It is my absolute pleasure. Maybe we’ll look at some MTM options in the future.

Timing was perfect, it arrived yesterday and I am heading out of town on Monday with that new sport coat.

I'm definitely going to get measured up next time I am in Toronto. MTM pants and jackets are in my future I think.

 

[wigglr]

Pretty clean fit in the front for the Neapolitan but some issues with the back. No real bump behind collar but some pulling, probably exacerbated by uneven shoulders.

Can this be resolved by letting out the back seam or am I looking at more major surgery?

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Yeah, I’d just wear this and enjoy

 

[Wilson13]

Nothing major at all, relax. So many gents around here are always looking for the "no crease, no lines" look on light, thin fabrics and it's almost impossible to get that look unless you're wearing tweeds and heavier stuff that has more weight and more natural drape.

Eh, not necessarily. Here is a picture someone took of me at a baptism this past weekend. This is a light, unlined linen jacket from a very cheap online MTM place. You can see how light the fabric is because the front panel is being pulled forward just from having sunglasses in my pocket. Pretty clean to me eye, other than standard linen wrinkles. I think a couple nips and tucks would be worth it for @cp3

 

[Plumluck]

Huddersfield seersucker MTM:

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Damn!! How much did does something like that run? Love the pants.

 

[Cartwright]

Huddersfield seersucker MTM:

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Saw you cruising through the Bay today lookin' dapper af.

Couldn't grab your attention though.

 

[mossrockss]

Huddersfield seersucker MTM:

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i've wondered about DB with y'all. this is fantastic.

 

[induere_to]

Damn!! How much did does something like that run? Love the pants.

Fortunately, the fabric cost spike did not affect cotton as drastically as it did wool over the new year. This seersucker fabric runs at 795 CAD for a 2-piece suit.

Since this one turned out so well, I'm considering also using some all-white seersucker fabric that we have in the factory for a Neapolitan-style 3/2.5 suit with similar styled trousers... and matching shorts (same details as the trousers: two pleats, high waisted, but hemmed above the knee.) I know this an extremely anti-StyleForum move but that's why I'm all the more excited about doing it!

Saw you cruising through the Bay today lookin' dapper af.

Couldn't grab your attention though.

Oh, man! Sorry to hear! Whereabouts did you see me? I occasionally walk through on my way to work. Next time, feel free to pick up some unpaid merchandise within arms reach and give it a whirl my way. I'm sure that will grab my attention.

i've wondered about DB with y'all. this is fantastic.

I went with an unpadded shoulder with mappina on the sleeve, I also asked for the armhole raised a quarter from my last order and it was accomplished successfully. There's a slight belly on the lapels and I asked for the lapel to be 4.25 inches wide; so because of the belly, it makes the lapel a bit more striking. Barchetta, patch pockets, two button functional cuff and Mother of Pearl buttons... oh, and a little Milanese friend winking at me below my left shoulder. I also requested that the jacket be made completely lining-less except for the sleeves with the intention to aid the seersucker fabric to do as it is naturally supposed to... not stick to sweaty skin, and maintain a sufficient amount of air circulating inside the jacket.

The trousers, I wanted to see if the factory could pull of a back-adjuster, which I'm rather pleased with. 2-forward pleats, jetted back pockets and a 2 inch waist band. I actually asked for dropped loop belt loops, but I didn't state how many, which was my fault... they did however drop the belt loop for the closure, which thus prevents the closure from... closing, but that's an easy fix. I'm pretty thrilled with the way it turned out, and I'm satisfied with all the attention I've received wearing it thus far.