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Question regarding no-break pant length . . .

kdv10

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Folks:

I’m 5’7” with a ~ 30” waist and 29” inseam. So I normally hem all my pants with no-break. One thing came to mind.

When visiting the tailor, to achieve the no-break look, would it be best to try on the unfinished trouser with my (1) loafers, (2) derbies, or (3) with my boots?

Some trousers, like jeans, I could see myself wearing footwear, 1,2, or 3.

Was thinking, if I wore my boots for the tailor to measure a no-break hem, the trousers would then be high-water when wearing my loafers?
 

breakaway01

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yes, this is true. You'll just have to compromise. In any case, at least in my experience, trousers won't sit exactly at the same level on my hips all of the time. The waistband (and thus the hem) will move up or down easily 1/4-1/2" as I move around. People who take static photos of their perfect fits have all the time in the world to arrange things just so. I wouldn't overanalyze this too much.
 

ppk

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yes, this is true. You'll just have to compromise. In any case, at least in my experience, trousers won't sit exactly at the same level on my hips all of the time. The waistband (and thus the hem) will move up or down easily 1/4-1/2" as I move around. People who take static photos of their perfect fits have all the time in the world to arrange things just so. I wouldn't overanalyze this too much.

Same here. One possibility is to hem it to the loafer length. If it is a bit lower on the boot it might not make a difference? Just guessing here.
 

acconrad

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Folks:

I’m 5’7” with a ~ 30” waist and 29” inseam. So I normally hem all my pants with no-break. One thing came to mind.

When visiting the tailor, to achieve the no-break look, would it be best to try on the unfinished trouser with my (1) loafers, (2) derbies, or (3) with my boots?

Some trousers, like jeans, I could see myself wearing footwear, 1,2, or 3.

Was thinking, if I wore my boots for the tailor to measure a no-break hem, the trousers would then be high-water when wearing my loafers?
fahking hell. i'm 6'1" with a 29" inseam. swimmers body, i have stubs for legs. i need grandpa-levels of rise to make my legs look normal. but i would go with loafers because they're the most "exposed" and going with derbies/boots on a loafer alteration will probably look better than if you alter based on boot
 

KOz

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I've so far seen zero practical evidence that hemming your trousers in relation to your height does anything for height perception. Trouser rise in relation to leg and torso length seems to have more relevance.

I agree with the previous posters - hem to loafers.
 

flowen

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fahking hell. i'm 6'1" with a 29" inseam. swimmers body, i have stubs for legs. i need grandpa-levels of rise to make my legs look normal. but i would go with loafers because they're the most "exposed" and going with derbies/boots on a loafer alteration will probably look better than if you alter based on boot
6' tall, 30-30.5" inseam here. Not as extreme as you but this is very validating.
Where do you get your trousers? I'm sick of crushing my nether regions to get my pants waist at a reasonable level.
 

acconrad

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6' tall, 30-30.5" inseam here. Not as extreme as you but this is very validating.
Where do you get your trousers? I'm sick of crushing my nether regions to get my pants waist at a reasonable level.
Honestly?
Honestly??
Bill's motherf*n khakis.

The M1s.

The WW2 grandpa pants.

I know. Seems impossible. You must get the M2s, they say. Bill's are for old prepsters, they say.

I have 26" thighs my guy. The torso and arms of a man 6'4". And the legs of a dachshund. When a man has challenges, a man must also throw out the rules as to what is conventionally cool or normie. No Rota. No Incotex. These are for twiggy legs with tiny tapers.

You must let those Christmas hams breathe.

You must embrace the 8.5-9" hem at the ankle.

You must accept your proportions and elevate your style.

  1. I got big thighs, and these things are roomy: ✅
  2. I got a looooong torso, short legs, and these things have like a 11.5" rise: ✅
  3. They have basically the same dimensions as the Rubato Officer Chino but a fraction of the price, and relatively same quality if you get the actual authentic MiUSA versions (not the new crap they produce): ✅✅✅
This is the way. Thank you for coming to my TED talk.
 

ppk

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Honestly?
Honestly??
Bill's motherf*n khakis.

The M1s.

The WW2 grandpa pants.

I know. Seems impossible. You must get the M2s, they say. Bill's are for old prepsters, they say.

I have 26" thighs my guy. The torso and arms of a man 6'4". And the legs of a dachshund. When a man has challenges, a man must also throw out the rules as to what is conventionally cool or normie. No Rota. No Incotex. These are for twiggy legs with tiny tapers.

You must let those Christmas hams breathe.

You must embrace the 8.5-9" hem at the ankle.

You must accept your proportions and elevate your style.

  1. I got big thighs, and these things are roomy: ✅
  2. I got a looooong torso, short legs, and these things have like a 11.5" rise: ✅
  3. They have basically the same dimensions as the Rubato Officer Chino but a fraction of the price, and relatively same quality if you get the actual authentic MiUSA versions (not the new crap they produce): ✅✅✅
This is the way. Thank you for coming to my TED talk.
Crushed nether regions are a problem for tall guys with short torsos as well. Unfortunately, Bill's khakis look like clown pants on me. The proportions are all off - too short and very wide. I like wide, but not a negative break. I just go to Luxire. I have the measurements down to a T.
 

Despos

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Heel height, thickness of the sole and then style of shoe have an equal effect on trouser length. Circumference of the hem is the other variable. 7.5' opening will be a different length than a 8" or 9" circumference. If you want the trouser length to work with 3 different shoe styles; one will be just right and the other 2 will break a bit more or a bit less.
Decision is; which shoe do you want the length to be just right and which shoes will look better with a small break.
Assuming you don't want them to be short
 
Last edited:

paxonus

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I spend a great deal more time sitting than standing. So I prefer my trousers to have some break. They are more comfortable and look better when seated. And I think they also look better when standing. My preference is to have the hem covering the top half of my shoelaces.
 

William Kazak

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I just measured my height at 5 foot seven inches. I usually wore 30 inch inseam but I have been wondering why my newest pants are too long. They are thirty inches. I am going for twenty nine inch inseam from now on. Measured with leather dress shoes.
 

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