Question regarding no-break pant length . . .

[Despos]

If the rise is different, the inseam length changes.
short rise, longer inseam
higher rise, shorter inseam

 

[William Kazak]

If the rise is different, the inseam length changes.
short rise, longer inseam
higher rise, shorter inseam

Don't you have that reversed? Long rise, longer inseam? Please explain I always choose long rise. Maybe it has no bearing on the rise either way?

 

[Despos]

Don't you have that reversed? Long rise, longer inseam? Please explain I always choose long rise. Maybe it has no bearing on the rise either way?

Nope
The way I wrote it is the way it works.

Explain your thought process so I understand what you mean by your statement.

 

[ppk]

The way I think about it is:

Outseam = rise + inseam

So if the rise is longer, the inseam needs to be shorter to keep the same outseam. Outseam is top hem to bottom hem.

For example, if your outseam is 41in. You like a 11in rise the inseam has to be 30in. If the rise is shorter, the inseam needs to be longer to maintain the overall length.

 

[kdv10]

Just be careful! As in the pics above, there's the risk of negative break.

Serious question here: How did his pants go up so high when sitting down. I wear zero-break trousers with shoes like that and when I sit, it does rise a little more than usual, but not that high. It seems like when he stands up, it is already a high water hem length?

 

[kdv10]

Same here. One possibility is to hem it to the loafer length. If it is a bit lower on the boot it might not make a difference? Just guessing here.

fahking hell. i'm 6'1" with a 29" inseam. swimmers body, i have stubs for legs. i need grandpa-levels of rise to make my legs look normal. but i would go with loafers because they're the most "exposed" and going with derbies/boots on a loafer alteration will probably look better than if you alter based on boot

Heel height, thickness of the sole and then style of shoe have an equal effect on trouser length. Circumference of the hem is the other variable. 7.5' opening will be a different length than a 8" or 9" circumference. If you want the trouser length to work with 3 different shoe styles; one will be just right and the other 2 will break a bit more or a bit less.
Decision is; which shoe do you want the length to be just right and which shoes will look better with a small break.
Assuming you don't want them to be short

Thanks for all the responses. I was guessing using my loafers as a baseline when getting trousers hem with no-break as this would work for all 3 types of shoes. However, my tailor said, wear the boots when deciding how to handle the hem length; thus I posted this question to the forum for suggestion.

Also thx Despos for giving me another way to look at this.

 

[Despos]

The way I think about it is:

Outseam = rise + inseam

So if the rise is longer, the inseam needs to be shorter to keep the same outseam. Outseam is top hem to bottom hem.

For example, if your outseam is 41in. You like a 11in rise the inseam has to be 30in. If the rise is shorter, the inseam needs to be longer to maintain the overall length.

@ppk
reading what you wrote here and what I wrote; we are saying the same thing

 

[Despos]

Thanks for all the responses. I was guessing using my loafers as a baseline when getting trousers hem with no-break as this would work for all 3 types of shoes. However, my tailor said, wear the boots when deciding how to handle the hem length; thus I posted this question to the forum for suggestion.

Also thx Despos for giving me another way to look at this.

Boot will probably require the longer length, not the loafer.
Saying this based on shoe style but I don't know how much heel the boot has so can't be certain. I agree with your tailor.

Have had a lot of clients who like the trouser to touch the top of the heel of the shoe. Would mark the length to that spot and mark the front 1" or 1 1/4" shorter than the back so the hem angles down from front to back. Saying this as another way to look at trouser length. You do get more break on the shoe but the profile was the look they liked. Helped to cover and not see your socks.

 

[Stylewords]

For example, if your outseam is 41in. You like a 11in rise the inseam has to be 30in. If the rise is shorter, the inseam needs to be longer to maintain the overall length.

But surely your outseam is 41 because you like an 11 inch rise. The distance from the bottom of your balls to your feet is fixed. The only variable is where you want the pants to lie on your gut.

 

[Mirage-]

Personally I try trousers with a medium height shoe, I don't mind if they are slightly short with loafers, id' rather that than have a full break on others. But then again I ask for a quarter break (in many more words, since there is no equivalent term in Italian for it afaik), not no break at all, so if you go with no break but using loafers which are usually shorter, we might actually end up with roughly the same result.
I actually do find it a bit problematic with boots that have a pull tab, since trousers often catch on that even if they are fairly wide, when you stand up. For that reason I try to fold the pull tab in or even remove it completely if I don't find I really need it.

 

[CLH03]

I just measured my height at 5 foot seven inches. I usually wore 30 inch inseam but I have been wondering why my newest pants are too long. They are thirty inches. I am going for twenty nine inch inseam from now on. Measured with leather dress shoes.

Rise of the pant makes a big difference too. Lot of people don’t consider that.

 

[ppk]

But surely your outseam is 41 because you like an 11 inch rise. The distance from the bottom of your balls to your feet is fixed. The only variable is where you want the pants to lie on your gut.

For clarity, those measurements were an example. They are not mine.

The split between rise and inseam is influenced by your anatomy but also the desired style. If one wants high waisted, relaxed fit, the trousers will rest higher up the torso, but also the crotch might be lower than what their anatomy dictates. This will definitely impact the inseam length.

In general, I prefer trousers that are 1-2 inches lower than the crotch on my body. My inseam on a pair of slim fit jeans is 34-35, but on my ideal dress pants is 31.5.

I'm still learning and figuring things out - I would take the above with a grain of salt.

 

[Despos]

In general, I prefer trousers that are 1-2 inches lower than the crotch on my body. My inseam on a pair of slim fit jeans is 34-35, but on my ideal dress pants is 31.5.

this is an example of the point I tried to make.
have a client with a 30” inseam when we make tailored trousers.
When we make lower rise jeans for him the inseam is 31.5”

not sure what you mean in the first sentence quoted here

 

[ppk]

this is an example of the point I tried to make.
have a client with a 30” inseam when we make tailored trousers.
When we make lower rise jeans for him the inseam is 31.5”

not sure what you mean in the first sentence quoted here

I could have phrased it better - what I meant was that I prefer a longer rise and a relaxed fit in the crotch area in dress pants.

 

[ppk]

Honestly?
Honestly??
Bill's motherf*n khakis.

The M1s.

The WW2 grandpa pants.

I know. Seems impossible. You must get the M2s, they say. Bill's are for old prepsters, they say.

I have 26" thighs my guy. The torso and arms of a man 6'4". And the legs of a dachshund. When a man has challenges, a man must also throw out the rules as to what is conventionally cool or normie. No Rota. No Incotex. These are for twiggy legs with tiny tapers.

You must let those Christmas hams breathe.

You must embrace the 8.5-9" hem at the ankle.

You must accept your proportions and elevate your style.

1. I got big thighs, and these things are roomy: ✅
2. I got a looooong torso, short legs, and these things have like a 11.5" rise: ✅
3. They have basically the same dimensions as the Rubato Officer Chino but a fraction of the price, and relatively same quality if you get the actual authentic MiUSA versions (not the new crap they produce): ✅✅✅

This is the way. Thank you for coming to my TED talk.

I checked Bill's again. I misremembered the issue. It's not the inseam, but the waist. I *WANT* the damn M1s. I'm a 30 waist and they start at 34.