1st Custom Suit Questions - Research included - Need Confirmation - Short men measurements!

[ProvenStyle]

Long time reader.
Getting my first custom suit in asia.

I normally wear 38s for my off the rack suits.
5'7" 155 lbs.

Just need confirmation on my research from the more experienced. Thank you in advance.

1. Italian style - better for shorter men.
2. No shoulder padding - I have broader shoulders.
3. No belt loops - instead get side adjusters.
4. Suit should cover bottom only.
5. Mid rise pants (or should it be high rise?) - I have shorter legs and longer torso.
6. No break in the pants.
7. Lapel width 2.75 inches (or should it be 3 inches?) - I normally wear 31 pants.
8. Dark rich navy solid color.
9. Tailor only has 110s and 130s+. I should pick 110s for durability.
10. One button not the 2 button.

Kindly let me know if anything seems off or wrong.

Thank you!!

 

[bicycleradical]

I would go for high rise pants to avoid the dreaded triangle.

Get a 2 button suit.

 

[ProvenStyle]

I would go for high rise pants to avoid the dreaded triangle.

Get a 2 button suit.

Does high rise hit the belly button?
Most threads I read that the one button makes the the top longer.

 

[bicycleradical]

Does high rise hit the belly button?
Most threads I read that the one button makes the the top longer.

For the rise, discuss with the tailor. If this is actually a custom suit and not an MTM place using the misnomer of custom to describe their wares, they'll be able to discuss that at length.

Two button suits are the standard suit these days. If the pants have a good rise, the jacket is the proper length, and the button stance on the jacket is in a nice spot, it'll look fine.

Is this really a custom suit or MTM masquerading as such?

 

[ProvenStyle]

For the rise, discuss with the tailor. If this is actually a custom suit and not an MTM place using the misnomer of custom to describe their wares, they'll be able to discuss that at length.

Two button suits are the standard suit these days. If the pants have a good rise, the jacket is the proper length, and the button stance on the jacket is in a nice spot, it'll look fine.

Is this really a custom suit or MTM masquerading as such?

100% custom.

 

[bicycleradical]

100% custom.

Definitely talk to the tailor. If they have a house style, I do not recommend deviating from that. After all, that's what they do best however I am not a bespoke expert by any means.

 

[ProvenStyle]

updated my stats.

 

[KOz]

High rise trousers.

Lapels should be proportionate to the jacket, not a disconnected number. The same number can mean very different things between larger and smaller men, different shoulder types, jacket fits, etc.

 

[breakaway01]

Lapels should be proportionate to the jacket, not a disconnected number. The same number can mean very different things between larger and smaller men, different shoulder types, jacket fits, etc.

I would ask the tailor what they would recommend. That being said, 2.75" is fairly slim for a lapel. For a size 38 jacket I would want at least 3" but personally like 3.25-3.5" as a 'standard' lapel width.

 

[ProvenStyle]

I would ask the tailor what they would recommend. That being said, 2.75" is fairly slim for a lapel. For a size 38 jacket I would want at least 3" but personally like 3.25-3.5" as a 'standard' lapel width.

Thanks!