What should be altered on this suit?

[IncognitoInnominatus]

Hi gents, I managed to pick this handsome charcoal suit off-the-rack and I think it fits well in most of the key areas overall. I intend to have it altered at a tailor to make it truly mine, but I wanted to get some opinions / suggestions before I bring it in so I can have a richer conversation with the tailor about what I want to achieve.

"Invisible" specs:

• Shell: 70% Wool / 30% Mohair. Really fascinated by the mohair content of the suit: there is just the slightest luster under bright lights, and also makes the fabric sort of stiff/structured and wrinkle-resistant.
• Lining: Bemberg
• Canvassing: At least partially, I didn't pinch the entire suit.
• Vents: Double-vented
• Sleeve buttons: Ornamental
• Trouser rise: Mid-rise

Well-fitted parts:

• Shoulder width
• Good drape across the back with no collar gap
• Blazer length
• Sleeve length
• Sleeve pitch
• Trouser waist

Suboptimal parts (please comment on these!):

• Chest might be slightly too small. I have narrow clavicles but am quite active, so off-the-rack tops that match my shoulders are usually snug around the chest. I think there is a very slight bunching around the top button of the suit, and there is a slight chest break as well. However, I also think that the break could be caused by the stiffness of the mohair that doesn't allow the lapel to flow into a natural curve.
• Armholes seem pretty low, so the entire jacket lifts with my arms. Don't think this can be reasonably altered.
• Shoulders seem pointier than most suits, not too sure why that is. Could be because of the structure or because of the stiffness that the mohair imparts.
• Waist of the jacket could be taken in a little? Otherwise, it looks really rectangular from the back and sides.
• Jacket sleeve width could be narrower especially around the bicep?
• Suit roll is not the fullest.
• Trousers seem to be snug around my posterior, and pockets flare out.
• On the other hand, the pant leg seems to be too loose around my thigh. One problem I have with pants is that if they aren't too wide when I'm standing, then I can't sit or squat comfortably in them because my butt stretches and pulls the fabric up when I sit.
• Trousers can be more tapered around the calf area since it has no break.
• Trousers might be a touch too short?
• Shirt waist and sleeves should be narrower.

Do excuse the shoes - they're part of a niche minimalist footwear movement and there aren't many formal options yet. Ignore the "haircut" - I was holding it back in a hairband for convenience.

Look forward to your comments!

 

[breakaway01]

Welcome!

You are asking a lot of questions around whether/how to adjust individual parts of the suit but I'd suggest first stepping back and looking at the silhouette of the suit as whole.

Just my opinion (so take that for whatever's its worth) but the overall silhouette frankly looks off to me.

The jacket is overall tight and short with a high buttoning point and lapels that are on the slim side. I agree, the chest looks a little tight based on the bowing of the lapels. Because the buttoning point is high and the trouser rise is on the low side, you can see the dreaded belt buckle and bit of shirt peeking out below the jacket button.

The trousers look odd to me. They are low rise but the legs are fairly classic in width. They're not perfect but they drape pretty well on the side view. Taken as a whole, the trousers look a little too wide when compared to the jacket, which is decidedly not 'classic' in its proportions. The overall effect looks a little unbalanced and bottom-heavy. The trouser legs are also too short but hopefully there is room to lengthen them.

Personally? I would return this.