Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[AriGold]

Nice fit of the trousers. What W. Bill code is it?

WB61307

W BILL PURE IRISH LINEN - Harrisons

TROPICAL

www.harrisons1863.com

 

[othertravel]

Hey everybody,

Any idea with Mario and Angelo Pecora are still operating? Last I read, they were leading Zegna’s Bespoke Atelier, but that may be outdated.

 

[jonathanS]

Hey everybody,

Any idea with Mario and Angelo Pecora are still operating? Last I read, they were leading Zegna’s Bespoke Atelier, but that may be outdated.

That’s what I heard. I think Hugo jacomet mentioned it in his book the Italian gentleman. I suppose contact Zegna?

 

[S K M]

WB61307

W BILL PURE IRISH LINEN - Harrisons

TROPICAL

www.harrisons1863.com

Wow, looks a lot lighter when made up. I'm in the market for a navy linen suit and got some samples from my tailor from W. Bill and Spence Bryson. I had actually settled for the 61307 as this seemed to be the most "true navy", but maybe it's just the sunlight making it look a tone or two lighter?

 

[ZRH1]

I can vouch for WB61309, a lovely dark shade, perfect for the evening.

 

[S K M]

I can vouch for WB61309, a lovely dark shade, perfect for the evening.

But that's more like midnight though, or am I wrong?

 

[tim_horton]

My grey flannel suit arrived from Sartoria Corcos. It’s perfect. The fabric was chosen by Kotaro. I just told him I wanted a heavy charcoal worsted flannel and he went from there, so I’m not sure of the provenance, but I’m glad I stopped trying to source my own fabric.

He really has my pattern nailed down and I notice the difference when I wear his suits compared to my others.

 

[CLH03]

My grey flannel suit arrived from Sartoria Corcos. It’s perfect. The fabric was chosen by Kotaro. I just told him I wanted a heavy charcoal worsted flannel and he went from there, so I’m not sure of the provenance, but I’m glad I stopped trying to source my own fabric.

He really has my pattern nailed down and I notice the difference when I wear his suits compared to my others.

I think you forgot the picture of the fabric…..🤣

 

[Sreezy36]

How far along are you guys on this list?

If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

-a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold -mid gray flannel pants -decent, non-chino khakis -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit -a navy worsted single breasted...

www.styleforum.net

 

[circumspice]

How far along are you guys on this list?

If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

-a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold -mid gray flannel pants -decent, non-chino khakis -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit -a navy worsted single breasted...

www.styleforum.net

That is somewhat dated.

Brown oxfords are becoming increasingly arcane - young d00ds starting out would be far, far better off with black captoes, and beyond that, some rotation of loafers/derbies/chukkas/Chelseas for the increasingly non-suited world we live in. If someone was starting over after a house fire, I'd only recommend one pair of oxfords in their first 5 pairs of shoes unless they wore a suit > 1 time a week

French cuffs are somewhat of a bother - I have the wrists of a 7 year old girl, so perhaps this is my problem, but RTW FC cuffs seem to be routinely oversized, and prone to hanging weirdly vis a vis suit coat sleeves. Getting a good collar + sleeve length is 10x more important than the cuff makeup on the white business shirt.

I have a big wardrobe, and I still don't own a FW navy or blue odd jacket. For FW in colder climes, I actually recommend something that works from denim to grey flannel, and I don't love navy on denim. I tend to not wear denim in summer, so I am more in line with the navy thinking for the One True Spring/Summer sport coat idea.

Requiring 2 suits is a bit much for a lot of guys - pick charcoal or navy for the One True Suit. Depending on climate, you might want 2 in different weights. But I feel like there are lots of guys who'd be better off with 1 suit + 3-4 sport coats versus 2 suits + 2-3 sport coats these days. Similarly, on the DB front - you are probably better off covering yourself for seasons than worrying about a DB - north of the Mason Dixon line? You might want one suit that works 85F+, and another for 40F, as well as any suit ever works in either.

 

[clee1982]

Yea time definitely has changed …

 

[tim_horton]

I have always preferred black to brown for captoe shoes. I don’t own any brown captoes. Probably my greatest Styleforum heresy.

 

[Sreezy36]

That is somewhat dated.

Brown oxfords are becoming increasingly arcane - young d00ds starting out would be far, far better off with black captoes, and beyond that, some rotation of loafers/derbies/chukkas/Chelseas for the increasingly non-suited world we live in. If someone was starting over after a house fire, I'd only recommend one pair of oxfords in their first 5 pairs of shoes unless they wore a suit > 1 time a week

French cuffs are somewhat of a bother - I have the wrists of a 7 year old girl, so perhaps this is my problem, but RTW FC cuffs seem to be routinely oversized, and prone to hanging weirdly vis a vis suit coat sleeves. Getting a good collar + sleeve length is 10x more important than the cuff makeup on the white business shirt.

I have a big wardrobe, and I still don't own a FW navy or blue odd jacket. For FW in colder climes, I actually recommend something that works from denim to grey flannel, and I don't love navy on denim. I tend to not wear denim in summer, so I am more in line with the navy thinking for the One True Spring/Summer sport coat idea.

Requiring 2 suits is a bit much for a lot of guys - pick charcoal or navy for the One True Suit. Depending on climate, you might want 2 in different weights. But I feel like there are lots of guys who'd be better off with 1 suit + 3-4 sport coats versus 2 suits + 2-3 sport coats these days. Similarly, on the DB front - you are probably better off covering yourself for seasons than worrying about a DB - north of the Mason Dixon line? You might want one suit that works 85F+, and another for 40F, as well as any suit ever works in either.

Yea time definitely has changed …

As you can imagine, this list wasn't very well received during it's inception back in 2012. Pages upon pages of people expressing many of the items that they don't have from the list and questioning/debating the necessity for some of the items mentioned on the list.

Nonetheless, it's still a pretty comprehensive list of classic menswear wardrobe items whether we all agree upon it or not.

I can imagine that a few people in this thread have completed (Not me) Manton's "Well Dressed" check list without trying to, or without referring to the list.

 

[Texasmade]

How far along are you guys on this list?

If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

-a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold -mid gray flannel pants -decent, non-chino khakis -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit -a navy worsted single breasted...

www.styleforum.net

Not very far. I think that list is kind of dumb TBH.

Just looking at the first part
-a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold
-mid gray flannel pants
-decent, non-chino khakis
-at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket
-a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit
-a navy worsted single breasted suit
-a white FC shirt
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
-black stitch caps
-some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)
-loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell
-a solid black tie, knit or grenadine
-a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine
-a plain white linen hanky

All the ones I don't have I scratched out and I don't really plan on acquiring.

 

[lordsuperb]

That is somewhat dated.

Brown oxfords are becoming increasingly arcane - young d00ds starting out would be far, far better off with black captoes, and beyond that, some rotation of loafers/derbies/chukkas/Chelseas for the increasingly non-suited world we live in. If someone was starting over after a house fire, I'd only recommend one pair of oxfords in their first 5 pairs of shoes unless they wore a suit > 1 time a week

French cuffs are somewhat of a bother - I have the wrists of a 7 year old girl, so perhaps this is my problem, but RTW FC cuffs seem to be routinely oversized, and prone to hanging weirdly vis a vis suit coat sleeves. Getting a good collar + sleeve length is 10x more important than the cuff makeup on the white business shirt.

I have a big wardrobe, and I still don't own a FW navy or blue odd jacket. For FW in colder climes, I actually recommend something that works from denim to grey flannel, and I don't love navy on denim. I tend to not wear denim in summer, so I am more in line with the navy thinking for the One True Spring/Summer sport coat idea.

Requiring 2 suits is a bit much for a lot of guys - pick charcoal or navy for the One True Suit. Depending on climate, you might want 2 in different weights. But I feel like there are lots of guys who'd be better off with 1 suit + 3-4 sport coats versus 2 suits + 2-3 sport coats these days. Similarly, on the DB front - you are probably better off covering yourself for seasons than worrying about a DB - north of the Mason Dixon line? You might want one suit that works 85F+, and another for 40F, as well as any suit ever works in either.

"at least one funky (but tasteful) non blue tweed jacket."

Purple Tragedy!!!