Mod to Suedehead

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Spirit of 69, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. buttons

    buttons Senior member

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    Did you notice many skinheads there?
    There's plenty on the footage but I suspect its quite biased. I'm assuming it was generally a black music event with mostly West Indians there, but with small groups of skinheads dotted about.

    As for Jon Woods, its strange the way its gone. I can't find any sign of Jon Wood before 1970. They're massed produced colorful shirts for the big skinhead market of 1970. They're not bad, but differ quite a lot from the average British made 'skinhead button down'. Second button's quite low so the collar sits quite wide (not unlike an American shirt). (they did do a high second button one as well but this is a lot less common). Sleeves are baggier (than Ben Sherman, Brutus, Jaytex, Arnold Palmer etc etc) and the short sleeved version has a cuffed finish with vee cut but with a single button at the top of the vee. The same sleeve appears on Slim Jim and Mr Pigalle (off the top of me head - sure I could find a few more in me wardrobe), unlike the Brutus style one which was copied by many more. Check's twisted on the top pocket (always the mark of cheaper manufacture). Full back pleat with 2 darts, 3 button collar. Collars are a little longer (3 3/4inch, as opposed to the 3'n'arf inch Benny collar and 3 3/8 Brutus) and the kneck sits slightly higher, again subtley changing the look from say a Benny. They did various bright checks (as well as plains but very rarely stripes). Later they did many designs of Penny collar, with buttons galore - another story. They also did some of the same shirts sold under the Permenant Press and Man Alive labels (but from the same pattern). They also shared cloth with Jaytex at one point (from a standard Jaytex pattern).
    They've become the modern day skinhead staple, with the big, bold orange, green or blue checks being very popular (and changing hands for up to 200 quid on ebay). "The orange Jon Wood" is in most skinhead's vocabulary nowadays.
    I've had dozens over the years, proof in itself how common they were originally and despite having a few pics of original skinheads wearing them, I wear them now and then but in my opinion, its far from Sunday Best..
    I'll stop before I go into too much (irelevant) detail but I hope that helps.

    Buttons
     


  2. Lasttye

    Lasttye Senior member

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    Their is alway exceptions to the rules, and I'am sure some London lads wore a Levi Jacket, If you was in a gang ..you would wear what everyone else was wearing, believe me One could not turn up wearing a jean jacket around our way. same at Chelsea everyone knew it was Northern kit and scruffy looking.

    In any gang their would be idiots wearing none conformist kit, often they was the odd ball scruffy cnuts who did not care a fcuk.:D

    Those last two photos seem 80s ??
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  3. buttons

    buttons Senior member

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  4. buttons

    buttons Senior member

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  5. Lasttye

    Lasttye Senior member

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    Back in my day it was all about being in the gang, You dressed like each other.. like a uniform..you could not just wear anything, in saying that many of the smarter lads and girls would try and get the latest patten, colour etc. before anyone else. but it still had to be part of the uniform.
    In my opinion the skinheads at Chelsea was the smartest, they was known for it, also QPR .. it was a West London thing, I believe its the same today, maybe i'am being biased :D

    Having brought up three Children it was the same for them, all went to the Holland Park School , Notting Hill, They had a no uniform policy back then, so my my kids had to wear the latest clobber, I was in New York some years ago with my Daughter she wanted these trainers that no one had... so we went into the Bronx to get the trainers, got back home ,,, she put the trainers on to go to school, I said why have you tied the laces different on each trainer, Dad i have to otherwise they will take the piss.:D
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  6. Lasttye

    Lasttye Senior member

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    Repeat.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  7. Lasttye

    Lasttye Senior member

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    Buttons so was Jon Wood a Brutus designed by Jon Wood? , whoever he was,:) People nowdays will pay £200 for a 1970 issue,

    Enjoyed Chris Browns Booted and Suited.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  8. buttons

    buttons Senior member

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    Jon Wood were a shirt manufacturer in their own right, but as with scores of other makes, they basically copied what was selling well and put their own slant on it.

    So within the gang, there must have been a lot of pressure to fit in, be part of the the gang whilst still keeping ahead of the crowd.

    I've heard from other skinheads from the time that the West End skinheads had a different style to the East End, due to affluence as well as local influences, parents jobs, surroundings etc. That true for your lot?
     


  9. Lasttye

    Lasttye Senior member

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    Like anything their is leaders and followers, also a inner and outer circle, some was quite happy to go along with it all, others by their personality would become leaders or respected in the gang, one lad had all the latest cloths, he was the Ace face, he was flash but in a nice way :) some got noticed for their fighting skills, But most important if it kicked off you was expected to get stuck in... you did not have to be the hardest lad.. but you got respect, if you run off then you was never welcomed back again and would get a hiding if seen around.

    All the time you was aware of the way you looked and acted..it was a fine balance, you just did not want to fcuk up especially in front of girls, with skinhead girls you did not have to be the best looking bloke, but if you was smart and had a rep for getting stuck in, then you stood a chance with them, but this was local where you was known, If you went to the Tottenham Royal, where a couple of thousand skinheads from all over London.. north of the river was there, pulling a girl would be harder, We called them girls in glass cages, they would stand there immaculate, looking you up and down :)

    I worked in the building trade and got to know skinheads from all over London..so i would get over to their areas and to be honest their was no real difference, maybe North of the river was smarter, this was mostly down to the Royal, the Royal was the Mecca for smart skinheads. and i suppose it influenced all who got in there.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  10. Lasttye

    Lasttye Senior member

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    Repeat deleted.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2011


  11. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    I'm not at all sure about this being 80s.

    [​IMG]

    The reason I say that is that I can recall from early 1968 'up North' there was already a vogue for Levis jackets in suede and in leather. They were pretty expensive, though, and not that many people had them.
     


  12. bunty

    bunty Senior member

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    Hello mate,

    I think Colin said it was Brixton, It jogged memories here, pretty sure that was correct, definitely 'other side of London'

    When I asked what the 'type' was, I only got 'American bomber jacket (brown) like Steve McQueen wore in 'The Great Escape'. (The epaulets were removed though) I reckon this was an A2....however I was informed that you could also get A1 bombers too, but personally preferred the 'collared' one.

    The 'suede jerkin' photo was this jacket (taken from the Mods! book)

    [​IMG]

    Although these are not considered 'skinhead' these jackets were worn from the mid 60s on wards (locally) I think Colin has said that there was an East/North London cross fertilisation of styles? This must of been happening in every city all over the country.

    It's also worth noting that a lot of the lads in those photos that I have been posting were at the time late teens/early 20s, they didn't class themselves as 'Skinheads' , they were Mods earlier on, now they considered themselves as just following (and trying to lead) fashion. 'We were too old to be skinheads as such but that's just how most boys looked 'round here.'

    [​IMG]

    From that same photo, hanging on the back of the chair, the dreaded Levis jacket :happy:

    Levis jackets in suede and leather were very expensive and desirable (so you could never take them off!) as MoM said.

    Amazing, the old bugger* can't remember how much he owes me from last week- but he can remember ridiculous details about clothes in 1968! :D

    Buttons - I know it's a lot of buggering about but could you post a few photos of your Harry Fenton shirt please?


    Happy New Year everyone!

    * Edit - My brother I mean, not MoM!! :happy::
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2011


  13. soundsnpressure

    soundsnpressure Senior member

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    'Hope that helps' ?

    Just a bit [​IMG] . Many thanks for the background on Jon Wood.

    Brill [​IMG]
     


  14. Man-of-Mystery

    Man-of-Mystery Senior member

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    Nice save!
     


  15. Gramps

    Gramps Senior member

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    New to the Forum.

    Gotta send out Thanks and respect for for this thread. What was going to be another Boring Xmas break, has turned out to be both entertaining and infomative reading this thread. Its taken up about 5 days in total, but Ive enjoyed every minute of it. Theres been times when Ive wanted to reply and stick my 2 penneth in, but realised the post was 100 pages back, so it would be lost.

    Anyway, all the best for 2012 to you all, and look forward to more posts.

    Graham.

    BTW I know quite a few of you on here (some better than others) but after 332 bloody pages, i feel like im related to you's!!

    Been a Skinhead since about 1990 (apart from a small lapse come mid life crisis around the mid 2000's when I dropped away from the fashion side of things) and must admit Ive learned more in the last few days than possibly the last 10 years or more.
     


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