STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.
Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!
Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luxire, Jun 20, 2012.
Cuff looks good to me, you can try pressing a little if you think it's sticking out.
I think the cuff looks fine, however, my totally unsolicited advice is that you could stand to add some more room to the calf, knee and thigh measurements. I'm not advocating a 'baggy' fit, but that bunching you see from the knee down is likely caused by tightness. The side-on shot really shows them grabbing the back of your calves. I've had the same issue on mine and have gradually started adding some more room.
Agreed. I think cuff looks fine, but something could be done to the fit to get rid of that bunching/the way the fabric falls.
Yes I am still struggling a bit with the fit of the pants/shirt, I chose not to post all pictures requesting input because there is a separate thread for that, but since the conversation has already initiated here, I may as well x-post from the tailor feedback thread:
Had some items made from Luxire, and I can't resolve the bunching in the lower back of the shirt, and pants. Would love any insight:
Their recommendations after this iteration are:
1) Reduce the midsection width of the shirt by 0.5" flat (total 1" at the shirt waist).
2) Reduce back pant length by 0.5" and reduce inseam by 0.5" at crotch.
@1up - I'll echo what others are saying about widening at the knee and calf. Luxire's recommendations will help with the excess fabric under the seat, but you'll be shocked how much better the pants hang/drape once you widen at the knee and calf. I had the exact same issue with Luxire making the same recommendations, which helped incrementally. It was not until I widened so that the fabric was no longer catching on my calves that I saw the excess fabric under the seat and at the knees completely disappear.
Should I suggest to increase the width from the knee down (Knee / Calf / Opening) by approx 0.25"?
Also, what is another popular pant that forum members seem to like? I've tried the wool-rich pants and mid-grey flannel so far.
@1up, I'd also add some width to the back of the upper thighs, probably about 1" per leg.
Yes I saw it there, but I do not like the shape.
Thanks for advice.
This is what Luxire calls Longflower - https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...affiliate-thread.304965/page-747#post-7226590 - and it's a different beast.
@1up - Since this is such a simple issue, another option, if you are otherwise happy with the fit and pattern, would be to take the pants to local tailor and have them simply let out the inseam some. When/if the results are good, take "after" pics and provide the feedback and precisely what the tailor did back to Luxire, they should be able to help then modify the pattern. Might be easier and less time-consuming.
Thanks for your reply.
That's a good recommendation, and is what I will certainly do for the shirt (take in 1" total waist).
For the pants, I don't know if I agree with the recommendation to shorten the back length by 0.5"? It seems like a good length - no?
And lastly, I'm not sure I understand their final recommendation. Reduce inseam by 0.5" at crotch? Does that mean shorten the rise of the pants? Would a tailor be able to do that?
My understanding is that it means lowering the crotch. Without changing the length of the rise this would make the curve of the seat seam more of a v shape. It seems to be their standard advice when the seam seems to be disappearing up your fundament (wedgie effect). This change can only be done in making the pattern, not as an alteration to garments.
Can anyone recommend some summer fabrics for 31C/90F + days. I'm specifically after brown and navy. I've heard that 100% linen really isn't great for office wear. Any comments?
For cool-wearing office wear my vote would be first for Minnis Fresco-- there's a Navy and on the browner side "Khaki" and "Rust" (which I have no experience with).
Secondly, VBC makes various "summer" worsteds (search for "VBC summer" on classic site), which wear cool enough (don't get 'em lined), not as performant as fresco but I've found them fine in my subtropical region at any rate. Cheaper than fresco.
Also priced less than fresco, are the Dugdale Cape Breeze--there are several brown/Cocoa and Navy colors. These are nearer the bottom for me just because they are quite thin and sheer, so don't feel or drape as nicely, and are very transparent in lighter colors... but otherwise perform similar to the frescos.
For slightly more casual, there also carry "summer chinos", but I have no experience with those.
Separate names with a comma.