Car folks- Oil pan bolt/threads stripped, how to fix?

longskate88 · Jun 27, 2009

Originally Posted by Thomas

Hmmm. These guys who tell you it's seized...how well do you trust them? Do you change your own oil or have it done? And...when's the last time you changed your oil? For as often as oil gets changed, and the fact that there's oil on the other side of the bolt, I am really reluctant to believe it's seized and won't come out. My thought - if it's a professional shop telling you this, I'd be suspicious that they're trying to sell you more work than you really need. Times are tough, even for mechanics, and it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a mechanic pad their time with useless work. If you trust them, or if you're tried it yourself with no luck at all...here's what I'd do 1. I'd search for a used oil pan and new gasket and see what they run. I'd probably put one on hold at a junkyard somewhere as a back-up. Also: if you don't already have one, I'd get a Haynes manual. 2. Break off that bolt. Your best case scenario is that the pan holds the threads and the bolt strips. Again, since there's oil on the other side, a full seize is IMHO unlikely, though I could always be wrong. There are a few outcomes from here, though. If the bolt threads hold but the pan strips out, I'd get a drill bit, tap, and bolt to clean out the hole and then tap new threads - provided the hole hasn't gotten too big. If it's too big: new pan. If the bold head breaks off but the shank remains in the hole, then I'd seal off any cracks with JBWeld and see if I can tap a new hole closeby. Alternately you can try to drill out the bolt and re-tap, but that may be a lot of work (and you run the risk of leaving the rest of the bolt in your oilpan). The other caveat from here is that the area where the original threads are is probably thicker than the rest of the pan. You run the risk of drilling into a thin spot, which is unusuable and ruins the pan. Hence, the back-up. And be sure to have a back-up car at the ready, because you'll be sure to need something after you've started. As for replacing it outright, I see no reason why you couldn't. Ratchet drive, long extenders, and 12mm sockets (or 10mm?) should do the trick. But - drain it first, and even then it will be messy as hell. And whatever you do - use jackstands to hold the car up. If that floorjack gives way, or rolls, or whatever, you're hosed in a very bad way. Your hospital bills - if you survive - will make your car service bills seem cheap.
Thanks Thomas. The drip you see on the outside of the bolt is actually a bit of JB Weld or similar, the guy at the dealer turned the bolt about 1/2 turn, and stopped and re tightened it, applying the stuff to save his ass in case the bolt came loose. The first guy to notice it was at Oil Changers, and they have no interest in faking it since they wouldn't be able to fix it anyways. It's got 220,000 miles on it, so I'm not really shocked tha things are starting to fail. I'm going to call my BIL and see what he says, he's more mechanically inclined than myself. It'll still cost $200 or so for the OEM pan from a discount website, but our labor is free. Quick question: Suppose I go with the rubber temp plug the guy at Oil Changers suggests. What is the worst case scenario if it fails? I picture the oil light would pop on, and I'd have to get the engine turned off within, what, 10 seconds or so? Or is it like instant death if that happens?

longskate88 · Jun 27, 2009

Originally Posted by Thomas

Exhaust bolts? ugh. $550 might be worth it to not have to deal with those. They rust as soon as you drive it off the lot.

LOL, some of the DIY's have mentioned that

Thomas · Jun 27, 2009

Originally Posted by longskate88

Thanks Thomas. The drip you see on the outside of the bolt is actually a bit of JB Weld or similar, the guy at the dealer turned the bolt about 1/2 turn, and stopped and re tightened it, applying the stuff to save his ass in case the bolt came loose. The first guy to notice it was at Oil Changers, and they have no interest in faking it since they wouldn't be able to fix it anyways. It's got 220,000 miles on it, so I'm not really shocked tha things are starting to fail.

I'm going to call my BIL and see what he says, he's more mechanically inclined than myself. It'll still cost $200 or so for the OEM pan from a discount website, but our labor is free.

Quick question: Suppose I go with the rubber temp plug the guy at Oil Changers suggests. What is the worst case scenario if it fails? I picture the oil light would pop on, and I'd have to get the engine turned off within, what, 10 seconds or so? Or is it like instant death if that happens?

Okay then: it's not really seized after all. Something's stripped, but the bolt will come out, and it's a matter of seeing whether the bolt or the pan is stripped. I'd bet you can break the JBWeld off usng a breaker bar and then sort it out from there.

The rubber plug isn't an ideal solution by any stretch of the imagination: the heat of the oil may make it brittle, and unless you get the fit just right, you'll have a continuous slow leak. I don't think it's instant death once the light comes on. What I've heard is that you pull over, shut it off, and wait for a tow truck, unless you know you're out of oil and have some on hand. That said: You'll want to check it every week until you install a threaded plug.

dah328 · Jun 27, 2009

Have you considered leaving the drain plug in and doing future oil changes with a top-side oil extractor such as the one below? http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=416343331

longskate88 · Jun 27, 2009

Originally Posted by Thomas

Okay then: it's not really seized after all. Something's stripped, but the bolt will come out, and it's a matter of seeing whether the bolt or the pan is stripped. I'd bet you can break the JBWeld off usng a breaker bar and then sort it out from there.

The rubber plug isn't an ideal solution by any stretch of the imagination: the heat of the oil may make it brittle, and unless you get the fit just right, you'll have a continuous slow leak. I don't think it's instant death once the light comes on. What I've heard is that you pull over, shut it off, and wait for a tow truck, unless you know you're out of oil and have some on hand. That said: You'll want to check it every week until you install a threaded plug.

I don't know the technical term if not 'seized', but yes, the bolt will come out just fine, but it sounds as though they will not be able to put the same bolt back in, as the threads on the pan were stripped due to over tightening. Not like I need money for anything else...

longskate88 · Jun 27, 2009

Originally Posted by dah328

Have you considered leaving the drain plug in and doing future oil changes with a top-side oil extractor such as the one below?

http://store.motiveproducts.com/shar...unt2=416343331

. The guy at Oil Changers actually tried on of these, but couldn't seem to maneuver it properly to extract more than a small amount.

Would sucking out most of the old oil, combined with a new oil filter at each oil change, be good enough to approximate a normal oil change? I like this idea the best, since it's free to me. I normally go about 4500 between oil changes, maybe increasing the frequency would help offset the incomplete oil removal that would come with the extractor method?

dah328 · Jun 27, 2009

Some newer cars such as certain Mercedes models specify this method for oil changes so it's certainly sufficient. If you are able to get 75% or more of your oil out, you will be fine. Even less would not be particularly bad if you're doing it at 3k mile intervals.

Thomas · Jun 27, 2009

Originally Posted by longskate88

I don't know the technical term if not 'seized', but yes, the bolt will come out just fine, but it sounds as though they will not be able to put the same bolt back in, as the threads on the pan were stripped due to over tightening. Not like I need money for anything else...

Then if the pan's stripped out (and that's not really the end of the world anyway) the bolt will come out with the threads intact, and you take a few measurements and tap a new hole and put in a new bolt. Take the bolt to your local Home Depot or Auto Store and they should be able to help you...although if it's big...you're probably looking at Grainger to get what you need.

ALTHOUGH - if you want to go the rubber plug route, and seal it with Permatex, that might hold you pretty well between oil changes.

Originally Posted by longskate88

. The guy at Oil Changers actually tried on of these, but couldn't seem to maneuver it properly to extract more than a small amount.

Would sucking out most of the old oil, combined with a new oil filter at each oil change, be good enough to approximate a normal oil change? I like this idea the best, since it's free to me. I normally go about 4500 between oil changes, maybe increasing the frequency would help offset the incomplete oil removal that would come with the extractor method?

I recall reading somewhere that the new models of Mercedes work this way. One more way to do away with the people who turn their own wrenches. But...If you do this with a cold engine, most of the garbage settles to the bottom, and you'd be taking it off the top.

Hombre Secreto · Jun 28, 2009

Replace it yourself. Go to a junk yard, and look for one. It ain't that hard and it saves you money. It isn't like replacing piston rings...

jgold47 · Jun 28, 2009

Originally Posted by Hombre Secreto

Replace it yourself. Go to a junk yard, and look for one. It ain't that hard and it saves you money. It isn't like replacing piston rings...

I am a 10+ year honda dIY guy. First off, you are in So Cal so you are in the honda graveyard of the world. you should have no problem finding one in a yard. find a pick and pull and save money, or find a place that already has it off. As for replacing it, its pretty easy once you get into it. You didnt mention what engine it has in it, but if its a b/d16, try looking on Team-Integra.net, they have better tech info/articles, and the engines are the same alot. Get a hanynes manual, and just follow the instructions. as for the exhaust bolts, those area huuuuge PITA. The really do rust solid the minute the car is started for the first time. Unfricking beliveable. Blast them with some PB blaster and let the soak if your even going to try to pull them.

That said, one of the areas I dont mess with is the oil pan. I had a stripped bolt on a del sol I had, and I just replaced the pan. Someone crossthreaded it and it deformed the orifice (just wanted to say orifice). I could have tried to straigheten it out, but it was still going to leak.

jgold47 · Jun 28, 2009

Originally Posted by longskate88

. The guy at Oil Changers actually tried on of these, but couldn't seem to maneuver it properly to extract more than a small amount.

Would sucking out most of the old oil, combined with a new oil filter at each oil change, be good enough to approximate a normal oil change? I like this idea the best, since it's free to me. I normally go about 4500 between oil changes, maybe increasing the frequency would help offset the incomplete oil removal that would come with the extractor method?

that could work. The idea is to get clean oil in. your honda probably holds about 4q of oil, so if you pull out 3q at the change, your getting pretty close.

longskate88 · Jun 28, 2009

Originally Posted by jgold47

that could work. The idea is to get clean oil in. your honda probably holds about 4q of oil, so if you pull out 3q at the change, your getting pretty close.

Thanks. I just found out the dipstick tube goes straight into the oil pump apparently on my engine, so the extractor won't work

Thomas · Jun 28, 2009

Originally Posted by longskate88

Thanks. I just found out the dipstick tube goes straight into the oil pump apparently on my engine, so the extractor won't work

Bizarre. I always thought the dipstick went into the oil pan.

Milhouse · Jun 28, 2009

Well, the oil pump is usually in the oil pan. The exception being dry sumps. . .

longskate88 · Jun 28, 2009

Originally Posted by Thomas

Bizarre. I always thought the dipstick went into the oil pan.

Me too, I'll check with the guy at Changers one more time, but Honda-Tech said it goes to the oil pump, and the guy at Changers couldn't get out more than 1/2 quart, and he didn't know why. It all adds up so far.

Car folks- Oil pan bolt/threads stripped, how to fix?

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