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14 CLASSIC COATS! Vintage Cashmere; Swedish Military; Brooks Bros. Chesterfield; Italian Field Jacke

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Distinguished Member
May 18, 2009
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I have a series of wonderful classic coats to pass along today--including vintage cashmere overcoats, a Brooks Brothers Chesterfield, a wonderful vintage Great Western Mackinaw coat, a tweed coat from Paul Stuart, vintage topcoats, and more!

As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING in the USA; International inquiries are very welcome, with shipping at reduced cost.


Please PM with interest and offers!

1) Swedish Military Utility Jacket

This is lovely; extremely well-designed, and very well made!

This is Swedish military issue, and retains all of its original Swedish Army buttons, featuring the Triple Crown of Sweden. The front features two flapped hacking pockets that are secured with military buttons; the placket is secured with four buttons at the top (as shown), and then further buttons at the bottom of the placket in the interior, giving this a very elegant silhouette. The interior features a flapped security pocket with button closure, while the back features two further utility pockets, with security hook and button closures. It features interior security pockets. This jacket is unlined, and would be perfect for warmer days.

This jacket is in Very Good/Excellent condition.

Asking just $29, or offer.

Tagged a 40, this runs smaller; it measures:

Chest: 19 1/2
Sleeve: 21 1/2
Shoulder: 17
Length: 25 1/2

2) LOVELY Made in Italy Full Length Belted Overcoat. Likely Cashmere and Wool.

This is lovely! A rare full length double-breasted belted overcoat in a classic dark navy, this could be worn either casually or over a suit. It's a truly beautiful coat, and you'll attar ct attention in it however it's worn. The fabric that it is cut from --likely a blend of wool and cashmere, judging by its softness--has a wonderful hand and drape. The coat itself is cut as a classic double-breasted overcoat with a belt for added panache. It is fully lined, and has a single center vent. It also features a lapped back seam, two deep front pockets, and straps on the cuffs. It was Made in Italy.

Although this appears to be in excellent condition it does have some minor issues. First, it has a few moth nibbles, as shown--although these are small and could be ignored. Second, it has some schmaltz near the hem, as shown, and a small white dot on one sleeve--these will all likely come out with dry cleaning. This is thus in Very Good condition, and so is a bargain at just $60, or offer.


Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 21
Length: 49 (This is a traditional full-length overcoat!)

3) BEAUTIFUL Vintage Topcoat

Cut from a lovely classic charcoal tweedy cloth with a wonderfully subdued yet complex weave this is a classic American topcoat. It features a four button front--although the top button is traditionally left open at the throat--and ornamental straps at the cuffs. The shoulder seams are lapped, as is the center seam down the back; this coat also features raglan sleeves. This coat is half-lined and half-canvassed, and features a vertical security pocket set into the seam in the interior. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $49, or offer.


Chest: 22
Sleeve: c. 36 (+1 1/2) (Measured like a shirt)
Shoulder: NA--raglan sleeves.
Length: 40

4) VINTAGE Heavy Cashmere Overcoat. ABSOLUTELY LOVELY!

This is absolutely lovely! This is a vintage cashmere overcoat, cut from cashmere when cashmere was a seriously luxurious fabric indeed. This coat is beautifully soft, and extremely warm, and in a different class altogether from the cashmere topcoats and overcoats that can be found today. This is a very, very serious garment indeed, with a heft and gravitas that is simply lacking in most modern clothing.

This is cut as a traditional overcoat, with a three button front that, like a 3/2 sack jacket, has the lapel cut so that it rolls and the bottom two buttons are those that are primarily functional. It features wonderfully elegant lapels, as you'd expect from a coat of this quality and vintage, and two deep flapped front pockets that are lined in durable cotton duck. All of the external seams on this coat are lapped--the shoulder seams, the center back seam, the side seam, the sleeve seams, and even the seams that surround the pockets. This coat was made to last! It appears to be fully canvassed and is fully lined. The sleeves feature ornamental buttons on the turnback cuffs and it has a rear center vent. It was, of course, Union Made in the USA, and carries the Union label in its interior pocket.

This coat is in Very Good condition. It could do with a dry clean to freshen it up, and the lining is fraying at the hem; this could be an easy fix for your dry cleaner tailor who could patch this easily with a lining strip. The vent should also be resewn as the stitching is coming loose; again, an easy fix.

Given these fixable flaws this beautiful, heavy, pure cashmere vintage coat is just $65, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.


Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 39 1/2

5) VINTAGE WIndowpane Topcoat. Beautiful condition!

This is lovely! The cloth is a classic grey with miniature windowpane overchecking in charcoal--a quintessential look from the 1950s and 1960s. The coat is lined in a complementary dark loden green in "Midtown Satin" rayon. The cloth is lighter-weight than usual, making this perfect for today's climate-controlled commutes. The coat has two deep front exterior pockets, and a deep interior security pocket. It has lovely narrow lapels, appropriate for the middle of the last century, a lapped center seam down the back, and a single hook vent. It has raglan sleeves. It was Union Made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $45, or offer.


Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 34 (+1 3/4) (measured like a shirt)
Shoulder: NA
Length: 39 1/4

6) Pure Cashmere "Kashmara" topcoat

Union Made in the USA, this wonderful coat is cut from the Old School version of cashmere--the thick, rich, soft, and luxurious fabric that gave cashmere its name for luxury, not the thin mall cashmere that is so prevalent today! The fabric is seriously heavy; this is a coat to be reckoned with!

The cut and construction of the coat do full justice to the beautiful fabric that it is cut from. A standard three button closure with two button cuffs, this coat features pick stitching on the lapels and on the flaps of the pockets. It is fully lined, and appears to be half-canvassed. It features a single centre hook vent at the rear.

It does have some minor moth nibbles, as shown, but these are not very noticeable when worn. Nevertheless, they are there, and as a result this wonderful vintage cashmere coat is likely best suited to events that are not office-related. It is accordingly in Very Good condition, and so is a bargain at just $59, or offer.


Chest: 23
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 41

7) WONDERFUL Vintage "Great Western" Jacket!

This is absolutely wonderful, and if it were smaller and fit me it wouldn't be here! Likely dating from the 1960s this is a classic and utterly wearable piece of Americana, being a thick and wonderfully warm wool Rancher coat in a bold Western plaid in grey, cream, moss and peat. It features two deep slanted and flapped pockets on the front and a classic faux-fur collar, as well as oversized buttosn fro ease of closure when it's bitterly cold on the prairie. The cuffs have functional cuff strapsn to tighten the cuffs against the cold. It features a quilted lining for warmth. The collar is designed to stand up, and there is a locker loop on one side and a button on the other so that it can be fastened into place.

This was sold by Gimbels, which closed in 1987 and was famous for having the largest Thanksgiving Day parade in the country.

This was, of course, made in the USA.

It is in excellent condition, with two minor flaws; a very, very small moth nibble on the top of one sleeve, as shown, and one of the buttons for the left cuff strap is missing; this could be easily replaced.

Asking just $39.

This is tagged 46. Measurements:

Chest: 26 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/2
Shoulder: 20 1/2
Length: 35 1/2

8) VINTAGE 1960s Herringbone Tweed Topcoat

This is lovely! Although this lacks any identifying labels, this coat was clearly Made in the USA sometime in the 1960s; it has a classic 1950s/1960s cut, with wonderfully high, narrow lapels and a sleek silhouette. The colouring of the tweed is also classically late 1950s 1960s, being a herringbone in dark brown and black; the sort of muted color combination that was typical of the mid-century.

This coat has a classic three button front with a concealed placket to ensure a sleek silhouette. It is fully lined, and appears to be half-canvassed. It has a single center vent and two button cuffs. The two slash front pockets can either be used to reach through the coat to your jacket pocket, or else used as deep pockets in their own right.

This coat has no damage of any sort, but I'm conservative in rating vintage pieces, so this is in Very Good/Excellent condition. As such, it's a steal at just $39, or offer.


Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 39

9) WONDERFUL VINTAGE Dunn & Co. Tweed topcoat in West of England cloth

Dunn & Co. of England are among the stalwart makers of tweed clothing; their heyday was in the 1950s and 1960s, when their heavyweight tweed offerings became justly recognized as reprsenting superb value for money as well as evincing a particular form of British country style. So well known were they for their tweeds that no American academic visiting England could return without having bought at least one Dunn tweed jacket or coat!

This classic topcoat shows why Dunn were so well known. Dating from the 1960s judging by the classic vibrant 1960s lining and the muter earth tones of the tweed itself, this wonderful coat is cut from extremely hard-wearing and classic West of England tweed. The colourway and patterning f the tweed is wonderful, being a classic shepherd's check in tones of moss, light tan, and golden bracken.

It also has a lovely vintage Dunn & Co label, noting that they cater to clients in both London *and "the provinces"! :)

The coat features raglan sleeves for ease of movement, a three button front closure, and deep slash handwarmer pockets. It appears to be half-canvassed, and is fully lined. As is often the case with British coats it eschews buttons on the cuffs as unnecessary; it has a single centre vent. The lining is wonderfully 1960s... But, alas, it has multiple frays. These should be patched, but this would be an easy and cheap job. (Or you could have the lining replaced, but why would you want to lose it?) Given this, this coat is in very Good condition only--the tweed itself is in excellent condition--and so this is just $39, or offer.


Chest: 21
Sleeve: 35 1/2 (+2 1/4) (Measured like a shirt)
Shoulder: NA--raglan sleeves.
Length: 41

10) MADE IN ITALY Waxed Cotton Jacket

Just to break up the parade of topcoats and overcoats, here's something completely different--a Made in Italy waxed cotton coat! Made by "Island Jackets" and billed as being for extreme cold weather protection (something that I am doubtful is true), this is a lovely jacket that's rather a cross between a Barbour and a LL bean Field Jacket. The waxed cotton outer shell is 94% cotton and 5% resin, which no doubt makes for a shell that is more water resistant than those of Barbour--although this is rather "crinkly" as a result.

The jacket features deep lamb chop pockets, like a Bean Field jacket, which are located just above the deep expandable flapped pockets on the front. This jacket features a right-hand shooting patch on the shoulder, a corduroy collar, and a twin vent; this can be fastened shut with snaps. The cuffs can be buttoned shut. The interior is quilted, and features a deep zippered security pocket. The throat features a fully functional throat latch.

This jacket does have a few minor flaws, which add to its character. It has some minor scuffs and staining, especially around the bellows pockets and near the cuffs, and it has a small snag hole near the right hand cuff. At first I also thought that it was missing a button from each of the bellows pockets flaps, but close inspection reveals that it only came with one button each side, despite having two buttonholes! As such, this jacket is in Very Good condition, and so it priced very reasonably at just $25, or offer.

Tagged 56 (US 46), this measures:

Chest: 26 1/4
Sleeve: 25 1/8
Shoulder: 22
Length: 32 1/2

11) Brooks Brothers Formal Chesterfield Topcoat. (ALMOST NWT!)

The Chesterfield is an iconic topcoat. A classic wardrobe staple from the 1920s to today, the Chesterfield is characterised by its lack of darting; a characteristic that it now shares with many other types of topcoats, but which was highly innovative when it was first designed in the mid C19th as a reaction to the highly shaped coats that were then in vogue.

This example is an absolute beauty! Made by Brooks Brothers, this is cut from solid dark charcoal woolen cloth--the most formal of cloths for a Chesterfield. The wool is extremely soft and luxurious, giving this coat a beautiful hand and drape--indeed, so soft is this that it could pass as cashmere. The cloth is perfectly complemented by the beautiful velvet collar, which together with the classic peak lapels provides an air of aristocratic elegance to the wearer, even if this is casually slung over an Aran sweater and a pair of jeans.

The coat is fully lined and fully canvassed, and has a single center vent. The two front pockets are both deep and secure, and the right-hand one features an interior change pocket.

With the exception of a tiny rub on the velvet collar on the left-hand side--something you'd likely not notice unless it was pointed out--this coat is in absolutely excellent condition. Indeed, it comes complete with its original cardboard sleeve tag, included in the interior pocket--which indicates that this coat was worn very sparingly, if at all.

Union Made in the USA, and likely dating from the late 1980s to early 1990s, judging by the script on the sleeve tag, this is a wonderful, classic piece of clothing, at a steal at just $65, or offer.

Tagged 42R, this measures:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/2
Shoulder: 19
Length: 43 1/2



Not surprisingly, the Polo coat owes its name to the camelhair coats worn by Polo players between chukkas.... and as such it was originally an English, rather than an American, garment. But the English Polo had only a distant resemblance to what would quickly become an American style icon. They often lacked any form of buttoning, closing only with a belt, and were essentially glorified bathrobes..... which was fine for their original purpose of being casually tossed over the shoulders of unmounted players.

(Polos were also originally called "Wait Coats", as they were worn only while waiting.)

During the Edwardian era polo became popular with the East Coast establishment, and the polo coat quickly became popular with spectators and players alike. Guided by WASP frugality the original wrap coat was quickly improved to be a more useful garment, acquiring buttons, deep patch pockets, and the oversized Ulster collar, while retaining the functional half-belt at the back, and often shedding the original belt.

The American Polo Coat was born.

But being produced is one thing; becoming a style icon is quite another. The Polo was not long in securing this status. Its practicality and swagger was quickly noticed by the young men at Ivy colleges whose friends and cousins were associated with the polo set, and within a few years it became the coat of choice for the stylish Roaring Twenties, along with Stutz Bearcats, bootleg liquor, and--for the truly wealthy and adventurous--barnstormer biplanes sold off cheaply after the Great War. Indeed, at the 1929 Yale-Princeton game many noted that the Polo had supplanted the Raccoon coat among the Ivy set... and raccoons everywhere rejoiced.*

By the 1950s, alas, the Polo was in decline, supplanted by the double-breasted trenchcoat made popular by its Second War utility and style. It enjoyed a brief popular resurgence in the 1980s with its fascination with the romance and style of the 1920s and 1930s. Yet that it has declined in general popularity by no means detracts from its iconic status, and the Polo has since its inception always warranted a place in every well-dressed man's wardrobe.

Indeed, so classic is the Polo that a lovely example from 1915 (by Brooks Brothers) is held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

And if you want one, they're available.... Brooks still stocks them, so does J. Press, Ben Silver, and O'Connell's, who'll be happy to sell you one for $1,400.

Or you could buy this!

Made by Taglianetti, this is a classic double-breasted Polo coat in the classic camelhair colour--please note, though, that I believe that this is a wool coat, although the fabric is not listed. It has a classic six button front, oversize collar, and two flapped patch pockets. It has the classic half-belt, and a horizontal lapped seam across the back providing a cape effect. The back also features a box pleat for ease of movement, and a deep single vent. The coat is fully lined, and appears to be half-canvassed.

It does have a couple of minor issues; there are two tiny moth nibbles, as shown, but these are hard to spot and could be ignored. There is a tiny amount of loose stitching at the top of the vent in the lining; this is an easy fix, or else could be ignored. And there is wear to one of the buttonholes.

Overall, then, this is in Very Good/Excellent condition. Asking just $45, or offer.

Tagged 40--and this is repeated on the original paper tag affixed to the interior of the half-belt--this measures:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 27 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 42 1/2

13) Paul Stuart Tweed Double Breasted Overcoat

This is wonderful! Cut from classic grey herringbone tweed, this beautiful coat by Paul Stuart is double breasted with peak lapels. It has four button cuffs, is fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has a chain handtag, that is intact, and a single centre vent. It also features a very deep interior game pocket--oddly, for a coat of this degree of formality--as well as the more usual interior pockets for your wallet. This coat was Made in Canada.

It does have some fraying at the bottom of the lining, as shown; it has also had a small repair done to the lining to reinforce the area where the interior button is located. Given these minor flaws, this is in Very Good condition, and so it is a bargain at just $45, or offer.

Tagged a 40L, this measures:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+1 1/)
Shoulder: 18
Length; 45 1/2

14) WONDERFUL MADE IN ENGLAND Classic Grey Herringbone Topcoat in West of England Cloth!

This is lovely! A classic single-breasted topcoat cut from classic grey herringbone West of England cloth, loomed in Oxfordshire (which is in the east of England...), this was Made in England for Saks of Fifth Avenue. It has a three button closure and standard notch lapels, three button cuffs, and a single center vent. It is half-canvassed, and fully lined. This is a lovely, classic coat!

It has a couple of minor mars, however. There is some minor sag to the top of the interior breast pocket; this doesn't affect function, and can't be seen when worn. There are also three very small snag holes by the left hem at the bottom; these could either be rewoven, or else simply darned--or ignored!

Given these issues, this is in Good/Very Good condtion, and so it a bargain at just $35, or offer!


Chest: 22
Sleeve: 27 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 46

1) Britches of Georgetown Suede Harrington Jacket.

Founded in Georgetown in 1967, Britches quickly established itself as a store that offered extremely well-made traditional clothing... but often with a slight twist, to appeal to a younger crown who, while steeped in the Ivy clothing tradition, wanted something slightly different. Britches expanded quickly and, unlike Banana Republic, never lost its way to become just another mall brand. Unfortunately, this might have been its undoing, and in 1998 it sold off its stores, to be declared bankrupt in 2002.

This suede Harrington jacket is a lovely example of Britches' wares. The Harrington jacket is a iconic clothing piece that is typically offered in cotton or a poly-cotton blend (like trenchcoats, the poly-cotton blends are considered perfectly acceptable in Harringtons). Britches took the classic Harrington and offered it in suede--a neat and classic twist on a well-loved standard. This jacket has all of the features of a traditional Harrington. It has knit cuffs and hem, a a lovely contrasting tartan lining--one of the hallmarks of a Harrington jacket--raglan sleeves, and two deep slash handwarmer pockets with button down flaps on the front. The collar can be folded up and secured against the wind, as shown. It also features a scalloped back yoke. Although the age of this jacket is uncertain judging by the label it is likely from the 1980s. It is in excellent condition; the suede is still lovely and supple, the YKK front zipper moves beautifully smoothly, and the two buttons for the flaps are still firmly attached. It does have two minor flaws; there are two tiny white spots on it (one of the back, one of the front), and the interior pocket is missing its button--an easy fix if you so desire.

This is a lovely, classic jacket, and a bargain at $49, or offer.

Tagged 40. Measures:

Chest: 19 3/4
Sleeve: c. 35 (measured like a shirt)
Shoulder: NA--raglan sleeves.
Length: 24 1/4.

2) Vintage 1960s suede collegiate jacket by Ralph Edwards Sportswear

Ralph Edwards Sportswear held a contract for producing military G-1 for the United States Navy jackets from 1961 - 1964. One of these jackets was recently sold by Good Wear Leathers, who described Ralph Edwards as being a "well-known contractor" for leather jackets, a testimony which speaks well to the quality of their products.

This suede jacket also speaks well to the quality of Ralph Edwards products! Likely dating from the mid-1960s judging by the cut, label, and collar size, this is a lovely and utterly wearable piece of Americana. An elegant and minimalist suede jacket the vertical seams on the front produce the openings to the two deep handwarmer pockets that are lined in warm cotton drill. The jacket is zippered at the front with a Talon zipper; this moves beautifully fluidly. The jacket can be tightened at the waist by the use of the buttoned waist adjusters; unlike many jackets this has both of its original buttons intact. This jacket also features a protective leather strip on the inside of the collar, the area where most suede jackets start to face or fray first. This has ensured that the collar of this jacket exhibits no wear to the suede at all!

The suede of this jacket is still beautifully supple, and, although it is slightly rumpled from storage, there are no major scuffs or marks to the suede at all, apart from the small blemish by the left-hand waist adjuster at the back, as shown. This jacket is thus in Very Good condition.

Although it is not labeled as such, it was also Made in the USA!

This is just $49, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.


Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4
Shoulder: 20
Length: 24 7/8



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