Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

My trousers at 600 grams are 6 years old and still going strong but they've had limited use since the start of Covid. Also had a pair of worsted calvary twill trousers around 440 gms which lasted me 7 years with repeated use. Moving forward I plan on using heavy weight twill (=< 600gms ) for trousers.

If you have a pair of trousers you like I would buy multiple pairs.

I'm not too familiar with the typical fabric weights for trousers - is this on the heavy side or normal?

Are you able to wear these in a DC summer? Or are these strictly fall/winter/spring trousers?

 

[The Chai]

Anyone have any experience using wool crepe to make a suit. Thinking of getting some 80s armani inspired jackets made

 

[The Chai]

Tobacco irish linen safari jacket

 

[reidd]

Anyone have any experience using wool crepe to make a suit. Thinking of getting some 80s armani inspired jackets made

Wool crepe DB would be awesome. Not sure I've seen any crepe in any books lately though. Any idea where you'd source it?

 

[lordsuperb]

I'm not too familiar with the typical fabric weights for trousers - is this on the heavy side or normal?

Are you able to wear these in a DC summer? Or are these strictly fall/winter/spring trousers?

DC summers are hot and humid. I would only recommend wearing shorts in the summer time, but if I have to go in I’ll wear linen or cotton trousers.

I definitely need to buy more high twist trousers for occasions that are summer formal.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

Hello guys!

I am currently planning my first (and basically essential) overcoat comission.

I want a heavyish navy ulster coat. Somewhere in the 600-800g range. Preferably Woolen, not Covert. The coat is meant to be worn with anything from denim to suiting.

Now, most navys i saw so far seemed quite flat to me.

Does anyone here have cloth suggestions for navy with a bit of depth and texture?

 

[classicalthunde]

Hello guys!

I am currently planning my first (and basically essential) overcoat comission.

I want a heavyish navy ulster coat. Somewhere in the 600-800g range. Preferably Woolen, not Covert. The coat is meant to be worn with anything from denim to suiting.

Now, most navys i saw so far seemed quite flat to me.

Does anyone here have cloth suggestions for navy with a bit of depth and texture?

what have you seen? Holland and Sherry and Fox Bros both have heavy weight navy wools in that range.

 

[Smarter_than_Casual]

I saw a few options from Fox and Dugdales. Haven't seen Holland and Sherry yet.
Texturally, this one from Draper's is really close to what I am looking for but unfortunately to lightweight.
Maybe this helps narrowing it down.

https://drapersitaly.it/bs-en/collection/6910/

 

[The Chai]

I was gonna buy an el cheapo bolt j clissold bolt off ebay but holland and sherry does one for their womenswear range and b and j have some nice double crepes. I always found the fabric intriguing and have always wanted one made. Might even get a fun dj...

Wool crepe DB would be awesome. Not sure I've seen any crepe in any books lately though. Any idea where you'd source it?

 

[reidd]

I was gonna buy an el cheapo bolt j clissold bolt off ebay but holland and sherry does one for their womenswear range and b and j have some nice double crepes. I always found the fabric intriguing and have always wanted one made. Might even get a fun dj...

I agree. Crepe has texture without truly standing out. A navy would have a lot of personality similar to the way mock leno does with the former reading slightly more formal (more suity).

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Might even get a fun dj...

You are our Dinner Jackets' man!

How many DJs already?

Best,

Dimitris

 

[The Chai]

You are our Dinner Jackets' man!

How many DJs already?

Best,

Dimitris

I have thrown alot of my old ones out as I have outgrown them. Regular gym and putting on weight can be paradoxically expensive. Currently down to 4 in regular rotation with 2 more otw...having the new ones recut with more drape...extended shoulders and lower buttoning point inspired by 80s armani and 90s brioni

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I have thrown alot of my old ones out as I have outgrown them. Regular gym and putting on weight can be paradoxically expensive. Currently down to 4 in regular rotation with 2 more otw...having the new ones recut with more drape...extended shoulders and lower buttoning point inspired by 80s armani and 90s brioni

I see.

Well, FWIW, I find the former (80s Armani) quite relaxed in style, while I never cared about the latter (90s Brioni); I let Pierce Brosnan (as James Bond) to do the job!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[The Chai]

I see.

Well, FWIW, I find the former (80s Armani) quite relaxed in style, while I never cared about the latter (90s Brioni); I let Pierce Brosnan (as James Bond) to do the job!

Best,

Dimitris

I personally found pierce brosnan suits as james bond to be the best in the series. I also loved his suits in thomas crown affair. I have been experimenting with the armani drape for casual sports jackets and suitings and the latter style for formalwear thought I'll try the crepe fabric dj in an armani style

 

[bdavro23]

View attachment 1709082
Tobacco irish linen safari jacket View attachment 1709083 View attachment 1709084

If you make another one of these, I would lower the buttons an inch or so, would be a more flattering shape on you. Also, and this is just preference, I would have them wash the linen before they make it as it removes some of the sheen and starchiness that you get sometimes. Will soften up the cloth as well. This happens naturally over time as you wear it, but I always like to give it a little head start.