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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

lordsuperb

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All right fellas, in lieu of traveling tailors on standby for the foreseeable future, I’m getting a bespoke DB suit done locally here in SF using Tailors Keep. Pretty sure it’s going to be the less- WBill linen, but was wondering if anyone has experience with both of these:

View attachment 1610340View attachment 1610341

specifically, what is the difference between the two?
What’s the configuration of the jacket and the house style of tailors keep? Pictures?
 

UrbanComposition

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What’s the configuration of the jacket and the house style of tailors keep? Pictures?
I’d say it’s in line with current #menswear trends but Ryan (co-founder and head fitter) is pretty flexible. That said Ryan’s pics on their Instagram is a good representation of their house style.


I’ll probably opt for a slightly lower gorge and wider leg.
 

M Parenti

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Can anyone recommend an alternative to the M&E 50/50 Wool/Linen Beige Hopsack?
View attachment 1608015

Unfortunately out of stock and won't be back in for a little while.
not sure if you're still looking but Drago's spring/summer jacketing bunch has the 60/40 linen/wool in a similar shade, maybe a bit too grey. The w/s/l from the same bunch is closer to this color.
 

lordsuperb

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Welp, I ended up getting both the 17/18oz mottled taupe/off white linen Mersolair for SB and 12/13 brown linen W Bill for DB. Not sure if I’ll do one or both this year, but leaning towards the SB for this summer.
I take it you've been buying shares of Johnson & Johnson? Because you'll definitely need the shower to shower powder wearing 17 / 18 oz linen in the summer.
 

reidd

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I've been thinking about getting a white linen suit.

Kenji in his


View attachment 1610405



Mark says he got this as a suit but often just wears the jacket as a SC. He has a ton of videos on his IG of him wearing it in ways I think looks good. I was going to ask Mark for a swatch reference. His linen has a very slight hint of yellow that I like.

View attachment 1610406


I've also thought about getting a grey linen suit. Seems like it could potentially look very "modern." W. Bill has some nice options


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Alan has also posted some nice videos of his linen suits. If you like these, you can prob ask him for a fabric reference number.


Lots of good stuff here. I agree about the grey linen. I've always seen those flat grey swatches in the books and thought that would make a really interesting and versatile suit.

Alan's chocolate Liverano looks phenominal as well. Most of the chocolate swatches look too dark, while I usually find the tobaccos a bit too rich and warm. His looks like the perfect middle ground. He mentions it having faded, I wonder if that's how the chocolate tones go over time.
 

circumspice

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I take it you've been buying shares of Johnson & Johnson? Because you'll definitely need the shower to shower powder wearing 17 / 18 oz linen in the summer.
SF summers peak at the average DC high temp on April 28th, I reckon
 

Andy57

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I believe @Andy57 had something made up from Wabi Sabi if I'm not mistaken...
You're not mistaken:
IMG_8243.jpeg

The weave of this LL Wabi-sabi is unlike anything I've seen elsewhere. It's not better or worse, just unique. It's a rather soft cloth and I feel it doesn't hold the crease as sharply as I might like. The overall impression is that it is a fairly casual cloth. It made up nicely, though, and I'm quite pleased with it.
 
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Hello!

I am fairly new here and have a question:
I recently saw this old Eidos Jacket in an IG Post from Aaron Benstead:

Aaron's WSL Eidos Jacket
another picture to show the colour...

I particularly liked the idea of a"beige" summer jacket that is grey enough to be worn with cream trousers as well. I would also like the idea of a summer suit in a similar colour. The Suit should split up well in to both an odd jacket and useful odd trousers. If possible I would like the jacket to be textured enough to be worn casually. I usually like quite heavyweight cloths.
To better illustrate the colour I am looking for here is a picture of the Rubato Fawn Sweater that is the precise shade I am looking for:

Fawn Rubato V Neck


I considered the following options:

Solbiati Time Off WSL 12031:

Good for the more casual side of things. My worry is that the colour might be a touch to brown and that the really lightweight cloth might not drape well enough, especially for trousers.


Light Grey Melange Fox Air:

Is an option, but could be a touch yellow from these pictures.Is also rather lightweight. Ordered a swatch from Fox to see in person. Any experiences with the drape and breathability of fox air?


and from Draper's/VBC Ascot:
https://drapersitaly.it/de-en/collection/18018/ (2-Ply)
--> probably closest in colour and the most textured, but fairly light

https://drapersitaly.it/de-en/collection/18054/ (4-Ply)
--> I have a navy suit in this and love it, but fear it might lack texture to easily work as anodd jacket.

https://drapersitaly.it/de-en/collection/18063/ (6-Ply)
--> Seems fantastic, but I dont know how it performs in summer. Is it breathable? Is it more or less textured than the 4ply?

I also requested some samples for these 3.

The last option I considered is the beige Pecora Nera from Loro Piana, but I dont really want a fine worsted trouser.
In the meantime I would be really thankful for all the insight or advice I can find here.


Does anyone here have any recommendationsor tips?

Thanks in advance

Johnny
 

UrbanComposition

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I take it you've been buying shares of Johnson & Johnson? Because you'll definitely need the shower to shower powder wearing 17 / 18 oz linen in the summer.
It’s generally in the 60s in San Francisco during the summer, and windy in the Marina, so it should be OK here. Florence is hellishly hot in the summer.
 

lordsuperb

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SF summers peak at the average DC high temp on April 28th, I reckon
It’s generally in the 60s in San Francisco during the summer, and windy in the Marina, so it should be OK here. Florence is hellishly hot in the summer.
Must be nice, I usually burn up when I try to wear my 13 oz linen piece in the dead of summer. I've only had luck with an 8 oz linen jacket.

My vote is for some milk chocolatey goodness....

1621281231152.png


1621281241488.png
 

Concordia

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More milk than chocolate, there. Not that it will help you in the DC summers.
 

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