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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

ericgereghty

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Hey all, I've probably asked this before long ago - apologies.

I'm going to head to my tailor this weekend and get some linen commissions up and running.

I was thinking Solbiati, but was wondering if anyone has thoughts on their linen or other recommendation?
Usual suspects are of course Minnis and W. Bill, both of which I'd say feel a good deal stiffer than Solbiati at equal weight. Another well liked option is Spence Bryson/Ulster Weavers, but I can't speak to it.
 

kolecho

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Usual suspects are of course Minnis and W. Bill, both of which I'd say feel a good deal stiffer than Solbiati at equal weight. Another well liked option is Spence Bryson/Ulster Weavers, but I can't speak to it.
Also Caccioppoli’s Irish linens. They are single width. Lovely colours.
 

bdavro23

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Have your tailor, or yourself for that matter, wash the linen before making it up. It will soften the cloth considerably.

I am personally fond of the Harrisons or W. Bill over the Solbiati, but taste is in the mouth as they say.
 

kolecho

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Have your tailor, or yourself for that matter, wash the linen before making it up. It will soften the cloth considerably.

I am personally fond of the Harrisons or W. Bill over the Solbiati, but taste is in the mouth as they say.
My guy Gennaro Paone said they soak linen in water for a day or two and drip dry before pressing and cutting to shrink the cloth.
 

buddyfuzz

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Does anyone have much experience with the Anglo-Italian Tessuti collection?

I'm really liking the look of this W/S/L basketweave:
 

TC11201

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Does anyone have much experience with the Anglo-Italian Tessuti collection?

I'm really liking the look of this W/S/L basketweave:
I have a length of ait-024 that is currently in the process of being made up into a sports coat. Not sure how much to extrapolate to the other cloths in this collection given the weave, but I am very pleased with it. Very spongy and soft, relatively open weave, very interesting mottled base color and a restrained windowpane check. It’s also one one of the most voluminous bolts I’ve ever handled when folded - just keeps rising, like dough. I wouldn’t call it a bargain, but given what has happened to prices for places like Fox, pretty solid value. Fox is perhaps an outlier on that front with their aggressive increases, but I don’t really track comparative pricing all that much. Overall, quite pleased.
 

buddyfuzz

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I have a length of ait-024 that is currently in the process of being made up into a sports coat. Not sure how much to extrapolate to the other cloths in this collection given the weave, but I am very pleased with it. Very spongy and soft, relatively open weave, very interesting mottled base color and a restrained windowpane check. It’s also one one of the most voluminous bolts I’ve ever handled when folded - just keeps rising, like dough. I wouldn’t call it a bargain, but given what has happened to prices for places like Fox, pretty solid value. Fox is perhaps an outlier on that front with their aggressive increases, but I don’t really track comparative pricing all that much. Overall, quite pleased.
Thanks for this. Could I ask if your tailor had the AIT swatches, or if you sourced the cloth yourself? Providing the quality is there, I don't think I have any issues with the pricing. Being a consumer-facing website rather than business to business, I believe the prices (at least for me in the UK) include VAT, which would make this equivalent to £100 p/m ex. VAT, which I think actually would come in cheaper than a W/S/L jacketing from several merchants (Caccioppoli/LP etc). Then there's the added bonus of supporting a small independent operation like AI.
 

TC11201

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Thanks for this. Could I ask if your tailor had the AIT swatches, or if you sourced the cloth yourself? Providing the quality is there, I don't think I have any issues with the pricing. Being a consumer-facing website rather than business to business, I believe the prices (at least for me in the UK) include VAT, which would make this equivalent to £100 p/m ex. VAT, which I think actually would come in cheaper than a W/S/L jacketing from several merchants (Caccioppoli/LP etc). Then there's the added bonus of supporting a small independent operation like AI.
I bought directly from AIT without involving a tailor as I wasn’t sure who I wanted to use at the time. I only recently saw that my preferred tailor now carries AIT cloth. The quality is high and true to the description. I doubt I bothered with a swatch first, but can’t recall (this was Jan/Feb 2020 and I’m not sure if that was even an option), but the web pics are very close to actual, at least on my laptop and iPad, and give a good sense for how it feels (if that makes any sense). I’m also typically willing to take a chance on the hand/cloth feel when it’s reasonably priced and from a source that I trust, but then I’m also congenitally impatient and not especially picky on that front.

Re: pricing, yes, I agree. To me, it’s certainly not dear given current prices from some of the well-know makers with DTC operations - for this bolt, at least, I find it to offer good value. Sounds like the shipping time won’t be an issue for you, but FWIW, at the time, this made it to the US east coast in 4 business days. Hope this helps.
 

circumspice

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I recently added a AI length to the unfunded liabilities pile despite having previously made fun of their generally dark and or restrained palette. I can concur on super spongy handle for AIT-20 - I was quite impressed. I will likely have it made up at some point

Unfortunately, AI dropped the ball on adding a swatch sample to my order - I wanted to eyeball their charcoalish corduroy because I wasn't ready to dive into the deep end of suit lengths
 

classicalthunde

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Just ordered a dark grey/charcoal suit from my tailor...I knew I wanted a high twist, open weave wool so I had SW Finmeresco 2712 and Drapers Ascot 4249 in mind when going in to order and view the books.

I know we've identified some of these before, but I'm fairly certain they're the exact same cloth. The details (weight/ construction), color, and hand all match. And neither I nor the tailor could tell the difference aside from the extra $300 the Drapers would cost. Furthermore, there were several others in the book that were identical as well, like a electric blue glen check.
 

aristoi bcn

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Just ordered a dark grey/charcoal suit from my tailor...I knew I wanted a high twist, open weave wool so I had SW Finmeresco 2712 and Drapers Ascot 4249 in mind when going in to order and view the books.

I know we've identified some of these before, but I'm fairly certain they're the exact same cloth. The details (weight/ construction), color, and hand all match. And neither I nor the tailor could tell the difference aside from the extra $300 the Drapers would cost. Furthermore, there were several others in the book that were identical as well, like a electric blue glen check.
I would have thought that the Drapers would be made by VBC but the Finmeresco is english made if I'm not wrong.
 

classicalthunde

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I would have thought that the Drapers would be made by VBC but the Finmeresco is english made if I'm not wrong.
I mean I'm not an expert, but I couldn't tell the difference under artificial or natural light with them laying on top of each other. and neither could my tailor. And the fact that the electric blue glen check ones where identical too is what sold it for me...

I always assumed that VBC made the Ascot bunch, I know they make the 5-Star bunch...is it possible that Smith Woollens sources from VBC?
 

UrbanComposition

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All right fellas, in lieu of traveling tailors on standby for the foreseeable future, I’m getting a bespoke DB suit done locally here in SF using Tailors Keep. Pretty sure it’s going to be the less- WBill linen, but was wondering if anyone has experience with both of these:

799FCBD7-9798-4A9C-91D9-6DBBAE391CEC.jpeg
15CF4358-A736-40A1-9D3D-031DA89752BB.jpeg


specifically, what is the difference between the two?
 

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