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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

aristoi bcn

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I have samples (not in those colours) of both the W.Bill and the Harrison's Mersolair. The Mersolair is more open weave.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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All right fellas, in lieu of traveling tailors on standby for the foreseeable future, I’m getting a bespoke DB suit done locally here in SF using Tailors Keep. Pretty sure it’s going to be the less- WBill linen, but was wondering if anyone has experience with both of these:

View attachment 1610340View attachment 1610341

specifically, what is the difference between the two?

I have a suit made from this tobacco swatch here. It's been a long time since I commissioned it so I don't remember the swatch number. But it's from W. Bill and in this weight, so I assume it's this same fabric from a different run.

I like the suit. It rumples more than it wrinkles. Very dense, heavy linen. I think it's good for Bay Area weather.


15CF4358-A736-40A1-9D3D-031DA89752BB.jpeg
 

UrbanComposition

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I have samples (not in those colours) of both the W.Bill and the Harrison's Mersolair. The Mersolair is more open weave.
I like the more open weave but not sure it’ll make a huge difference in Florence.
I have a suit made from this tobacco swatch here. It's been a long time since I commissioned it so I don't remember the swatch number. But it's from W. Bill and in this weight, so I assume it's this same fabric from a different run.

I like the suit. It rumples more than it wrinkles. Very dense, heavy linen. I think it's good for Bay Area weather.


View attachment 1610344
As much as I liked that color, I’ve always preferred a cooler brown, so I’m really happy to have this option.
 

kolecho

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There’s also this 500g beast from Harrison’s Mersolair in a mottled off-white...tempted.
View attachment 1610361
I’ve had both the Bill and Mersolair qualities made up before. The latter will wrinkle a lot more. Bill is sturdy but less breathable.

Dugdale Lisburn offers Irish linen in a more open weave than Bill. I like it a lot more. Besides wearing cooler, it’s also less stiff than Bill or Minnis linens but drapes equally as well. It’s my go-to Irish linen bunch these days.

Caccioppoli’s Irish linen bunch has some lovely colours as well and is single width. Similar weave as Bill and Minnis. I’ve got a suit being made up in that. I’ve had similar single width pre-Harrisons Bill linens made up before. It’s dense and drapes very well.
 
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kolecho

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I mean I'm not an expert, but I couldn't tell the difference under artificial or natural light with them laying on top of each other. and neither could my tailor. And the fact that the electric blue glen check ones where identical too is what sold it for me...

I always assumed that VBC made the Ascot bunch, I know they make the 5-Star bunch...is it possible that Smith Woollens sources from VBC?
Finmeresco has a mix of English and Italian made cloths. The mocklenos are English made while the other open weave 4 ply etc are Italian made. The 4 ply is identical to Drapers Ascot’s version.
 

dieworkwear

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There’s also this 500g beast from Harrison’s Mersolair in a mottled off-white...tempted.
View attachment 1610361
I've been thinking about getting a white linen suit.

Kenji in his


56422473_473144886795209_2070713461428980853_n.jpg




Mark says he got this as a suit but often just wears the jacket as a SC. He has a ton of videos on his IG of him wearing it in ways I think looks good. I was going to ask Mark for a swatch reference. His linen has a very slight hint of yellow that I like.

185733662_325813202391505_2017498506979529179_n (1).jpg



I've also thought about getting a grey linen suit. Seems like it could potentially look very "modern." W. Bill has some nice options


tumblr_npkxj6Qx7H1rynjwuo1_1280.jpg




Alan has also posted some nice videos of his linen suits. If you like these, you can prob ask him for a fabric reference number.


 

UrbanComposition

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I've been thinking about getting a white linen suit.

Kenji in his


View attachment 1610405



Mark says he got this as a suit but often just wears the jacket as a SC. He has a ton of videos on his IG of him wearing it in ways I think looks good. I was going to ask Mark for a swatch reference. His linen has a very slight hint of yellow that I like.

View attachment 1610406


I've also thought about getting a grey linen suit. Seems like it could potentially look very "modern." W. Bill has some nice options


View attachment 1610409



Alan has also posted some nice videos of his linen suits. If you like these, you can prob ask him for a fabric reference number.


I wear the white DB from Salvo waaaaay more than I thought I would, even though it’s 15oz. I’m leaning towards the 500g mottled taupe in SB with patch pockets because I can see myself wearing the pants and jacket separately, especially here in SF.
 

UrbanComposition

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Here’s another pic of it from Merino Bros:
350E8E98-A854-4D52-BA0C-690C29CAB01B.jpeg

I like it the more I look at it. The linen I chose for Salvo was optic white — very nice but one dimensional. I like the idea of this fabric in an SB with faux swelled edges.
 

bdavro23

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Here’s another pic of it from Merino Bros:
View attachment 1610433
I like it the more I look at it. The linen I chose for Salvo was optic white — very nice but one dimensional. I like the idea of this fabric in an SB with faux swelled edges.
I have this book and have toyed with making myself a chore coat/ safari jacket or something like it from one of these heavyweight linens. I also think they would make interesting workwear inspired trousers. On the other hand, I think they would look a bit odd as a suit, though its possible I just dont have the vision for it.

Obviously interested in what you decide to do, so make sure to post pictures.
 

classicalthunde

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How the LL Wabi Sabi compares to 4Ply Ascot ? Others cloths that may fit in this category ?
I always thought Brisa (high twist, 3-ply, 390g) was the LL equivalent of Ascot. I have a swatch for Lovat Bard, which is the same thing or very very close to Brisa.

I prefer the shade and hand of the Ascot/Finmeresco over the Bard swatch I have.
 

artyom.le.gall

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I always thought Brisa (high twist, 3-ply, 390g) was the LL equivalent of Ascot. I have a swatch for Lovat Bard, which is the same thing or very very close to Brisa.

I prefer the shade and hand of the Ascot/Finmeresco over the Bard swatch I have.
Thanks @classicalthunde. What would be the LL Wabi Sabi equivalent? its texture seems be somehow unique.
 

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