- Aug 12, 2015
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I have samples (not in those colours) of both the W.Bill and the Harrison's Mersolair. The Mersolair is more open weave.
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All right fellas, in lieu of traveling tailors on standby for the foreseeable future, I’m getting a bespoke DB suit done locally here in SF using Tailors Keep. Pretty sure it’s going to be the less- WBill linen, but was wondering if anyone has experience with both of these:
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specifically, what is the difference between the two?
I like the more open weave but not sure it’ll make a huge difference in Florence.I have samples (not in those colours) of both the W.Bill and the Harrison's Mersolair. The Mersolair is more open weave.
As much as I liked that color, I’ve always preferred a cooler brown, so I’m really happy to have this option.I have a suit made from this tobacco swatch here. It's been a long time since I commissioned it so I don't remember the swatch number. But it's from W. Bill and in this weight, so I assume it's this same fabric from a different run.
I like the suit. It rumples more than it wrinkles. Very dense, heavy linen. I think it's good for Bay Area weather.
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I’ve had both the Bill and Mersolair qualities made up before. The latter will wrinkle a lot more. Bill is sturdy but less breathable.
Finmeresco has a mix of English and Italian made cloths. The mocklenos are English made while the other open weave 4 ply etc are Italian made. The 4 ply is identical to Drapers Ascot’s version.I mean I'm not an expert, but I couldn't tell the difference under artificial or natural light with them laying on top of each other. and neither could my tailor. And the fact that the electric blue glen check ones where identical too is what sold it for me...
I always assumed that VBC made the Ascot bunch, I know they make the 5-Star bunch...is it possible that Smith Woollens sources from VBC?
I've been thinking about getting a white linen suit.
I wear the white DB from Salvo waaaaay more than I thought I would, even though it’s 15oz. I’m leaning towards the 500g mottled taupe in SB with patch pockets because I can see myself wearing the pants and jacket separately, especially here in SF.I've been thinking about getting a white linen suit.
Kenji in his
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Mark says he got this as a suit but often just wears the jacket as a SC. He has a ton of videos on his IG of him wearing it in ways I think looks good. I was going to ask Mark for a swatch reference. His linen has a very slight hint of yellow that I like.
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I've also thought about getting a grey linen suit. Seems like it could potentially look very "modern." W. Bill has some nice options
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Alan has also posted some nice videos of his linen suits. If you like these, you can prob ask him for a fabric reference number.
I have this book and have toyed with making myself a chore coat/ safari jacket or something like it from one of these heavyweight linens. I also think they would make interesting workwear inspired trousers. On the other hand, I think they would look a bit odd as a suit, though its possible I just dont have the vision for it.
I always thought Brisa (high twist, 3-ply, 390g) was the LL equivalent of Ascot. I have a swatch for Lovat Bard, which is the same thing or very very close to Brisa.How the LL Wabi Sabi compares to 4Ply Ascot ? Others cloths that may fit in this category ?
Thanks @classicalthunde. What would be the LL Wabi Sabi equivalent? its texture seems be somehow unique.I always thought Brisa (high twist, 3-ply, 390g) was the LL equivalent of Ascot. I have a swatch for Lovat Bard, which is the same thing or very very close to Brisa.
I prefer the shade and hand of the Ascot/Finmeresco over the Bard swatch I have.