The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

[Silk]

@schumanfu, the $100 question I have is this - how much did you actually pay for your suit at Senszio?

I finally had a chance to take some photos in my Senszio tailored suit. My one arm is longer than the other, something that was noted during the fitting. Sometimes I notice my shirt sleeve poking out the jacket sleeve more or less depending on how I'm standing and how the shirt is positioned against my body at the time.

 

[schumanfu]

@schumanfu, the $100 question I have is this - how much did you actually pay for your suit at Senszio?

I paid around $600 USD for my suit. I will be requesting alterations thanks to the feedback I've received here. They have 6 month window for such adjustments so I hope they can rectify.

 

[GBR]

I paid around $600 USD for my suit. I will be requesting alterations thanks to the feedback I've received here. They have 6 month window for such adjustments so I hope they can rectify.

Any thoughts on my thoughts?

#4919 - very good write-up.
I would be very interested to see the portraits in suits of yours. Pls point me to any link if posting new photos is causing inconveniences.

O don't have any current examples although I do intend to get a full set from baste fitting to finished suit next time. Unfortunately (or should that be fortunately) I have lost a considerable amount of weight since my last commission and so to use that would not help anyone!

 

[schumanfu]

Any thoughts on my thoughts?



O don't have any current examples although I do intend to get a full set from baste fitting to finished suit next time. Unfortunately (or should that be fortunately) I have lost a considerable amount of weight since my last commission and so to use that would not help anyone!

My thoughts are your analysis is very enlightening. I'm not sure what you're sizing mine up against in terms of price point. As mentioned I paid around $600 USD for my suit. I've seen bespoke pricing upwards of $1,000 - $5,000. The amount of man hours on mine vs the Savile Row standard is probably reflected in the price to some extent.

The customizations offered in terms of fabric and pockets are as you described. I chose to have a ticket pocket and mentioned I would carry my wallet and phone most likely inside the inner chest pockets. The photo was taken with nothing inside though so the note about the strain at the button is definitely a concern for how it should look with nothing inside.

The button holes are hand-stitched so I was expecting them to be imperfect, otherwise a machine makes more sense to use if perfection is the goal. But it seems like the goal is to have the button holes look as close to perfect while still maintaining a handmade quality?

The break in the pant was something I wanted. Vs no break. As I would like to minimize the sock-showing effect as much as possible when sitting. But your notes imply they weren't done properly. Too many kinks?

I'm not sure what's wrong with the lapels to be honest. Are the proportions off?

The pick stitch edging was not done by hand as was communicated to me.

Granted the photos aren't the highest quality and the suit wasn't recently ironed or pressed (at one point was packed into a backpack for an hour or so) I am attributing some of the ripples and wrinkles to those factors.

In my opinion the most glaring issues that can't be skirted from the photo context are the back arm ripples around the shoulder area, the ripples around the same shoulder/armpit area on the back, the overall handstitch quality and the bulging at the front button.

 

[GBR]

I agree with you that there will be different markers in terms of workmanship (though not obvious howlers) but at whatever price point with fittings it should fit correctly. Not to do so demonstrates that a salesman and not a craftsman has attended you.

The lapels exhibit curious kinks as Bamboo has evidenced and I have see a further one. There is something amiss with the lapels or else some other facet of the coat. Photograph below.

I agree with you about having a break for those reasons but what you have might charitably be described as a cascade and collision! I have found a few photographs of friend's suits: all are anonymised

The first is a high end tailor's effort which is quite elegant.

Suit

and a pair of casual trousers

This is from a middle ranking tailor.

First similar problem to yours established at fitting on one leg; note pin at knee demonstrating to the tailor how to rectify.

and this suit finished.

These should give you some idea what a 'break' should look like.

I would be very concerned about the chest measurement, the tailor has certainly managed to ignore your instructions about your wallet etc. Using these pockets and fastening the coat would betray the original purpose of bespoke tailoring. You will be forced to keep your wallet in a back pocket to avoid an unsightly bulge. I would suggest that you make this clearer (club over the head, perhaps) so that is properly understood. Then don't have back pockets at all in future which combination is ideal and makes both trousers and coat look good.

I agree about the back but I don't see that the photographs can be criticised for giving the wrong impression. An interesting thread, thank you for subjecting yourself to this torture, it does help to identify 'weak' tailors and give people some insight into what they should be seeking when paying for bespoke.

 

[Fishball]

Hi GBR,

Are you still commission Yao as your default tailor?
Or are you switching to Grand Tailor, IIRC?

 

[GBR]

Hi GBR,

Are you still commission Yao as your default tailor?
Or are you switching to Grand Tailor, IIRC?

My last commissions came from GT. My next ones likewise: This does not imply any shortcomings with GY, but a change is needed and a friend recommended them to me, well worth it.

 

[teoky]

I just placed an order at Proluge today, stay tuned.

Any update on your order?

 

[Fishball]

Any update on your order?

They have to fix up some issues, still waiting

 

[geeboo]

what issues ? take so long

 

[cognosciento]

Greetings all (longtime lurker, first time poster here). I will be visiting Hong Kong in December and already have an appointment with Gordon Yao to get a bespoke suit made. (I am hoping that he can pull off the style I am interested in -- a two button double breasted suit: see attached image. I haven't asked him as yet if I can bring my own fabric -- I have found some I like online at a site called intweed, if you are interested. I am also thinking about getting a suit made by either Peter Lee at Lee Baron in HK, or at Baroman. Does anyone know if these tailors still do CMT? Thanks very much for your help.

 

[GBR]

He

View attachment 835218 Greetings all (longtime lurker, first time poster here). I will be visiting Hong Kong in December and already have an appointment with Gordon Yao to get a bespoke suit made. (I am hoping that he can pull off the style I am interested in -- a two button double breasted suit: see attached image. I haven't asked him as yet if I can bring my own fabric -- I have found some I like online at a site called intweed, if you are interested. I am also thinking about getting a suit made by either Peter Lee at Lee Baron in HK, or at Baroman. Does anyone know if these tailors still do CMT? Thanks very much for your help.

Gordon is pretty good at replicating patterns. The other two that you mention are not in the same league so \I would suggest AMHC at the Mandarin or GT in Causeway Bay.

 

[MarcinVA]

Hi all,

I just received my commissioned suit from WW Chan. Getting it pressed today and will take pics. Any guidance on the right pics to take to help you all critique? They are back in my area in October so I want to take any notes and get it adjusted as needed. In general I am very pleased with the VBC revenge fabric, the cut, and the finishing, but as this is my first good bespoke I want to make sure I get it right.

 

[MrBergschrund]

Hi all,

I just received my commissioned suit from WW Chan. Getting it pressed today and will take pics. Any guidance on the right pics to take to help you all critique? They are back in my area in October so I want to take any notes and get it adjusted as needed. In general I am very pleased with the VBC revenge fabric, the cut, and the finishing, but as this is my first good bespoke I want to make sure I get it right.

stand straight but naturally, front, sides, and back (remember natural posture) and one more pic from back of your neck from side that includes the shoulders.

 

[cognosciento]

Cheaper is difficult to say, but GT Tailors in Causeway Bay might have something - they do not have a pretty shop front which attracts the high rentals as on the Island, but are on the second floor of a nondescript building. There is a lift. If you travel to Kowloon (very easy so I don't see why you stipulate the Island), you might try Y William Yu on Mody Road. There is also Ascot Chang in the Peninsular who might be able to meet your price.

A Man in the Hyatt would make you an excellent suit but their prices are necessarily high because of their location.

Bear in mind there is no such thing as a free lunch.

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Gordon is pretty good at replicating patterns. The other two that you mention are not in the same league so \I would suggest AMHC at the Mandarin or GT in Causeway Bay.

Thank you very much GBR. Do Gordon, AMHC or GT allow you to bring your own fabric?