The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.

  1. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    I must admit that I had the same thoughts about back pockets as you - having used two for many years. However, with a little thought and compromise I found that I can do without. All future commissions including casual trousers will be without in order to emulate the look in those two photographs; I reckon the change I needed to make was worth the trade off to achieve the look. Try it and see how you go, I was sceptical now I am convinced.
     


  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Oh
    Oh dear!

    Inked5_LI.jpg
    1. I have heard of waist suppression but this looks more like a clown's costume or suggests that your silhouette is 'challenged'. By all means some, but not excessive as this coat.
    2. The sleeves are not set correctly.
    3. Trousers at the seat, wrinkles galore.
    4. This pair appear to be about half an inch too short, difficult to be certain but there does not appear to be any break at all.
    A correctly made coat is a joy to wear (as these things go) and there are no compromises between technical adherence and function/comfort.

    None of these should cost money (as such) but they demand skill in the fittings and then further skill at translating that into the garment. This is the reason why I prefer businesses which sell from the work room or at least have the tailor do the fitting as the top market people such as Gordon Yao, AMHC, Chan. That said they still need to be time served craftsmen at the top of their game. Nice chairs, deep pile carpet and a large number of bolts of cloth on display on glossy shelves with a salesman (or woman) doing the fittings/measures do not make a good suit - save by chance. My new tailor in HK does sell from his workroom and all those involved can see the figuration, peculiarities of my body and know what to do when sewing it up. This I mention also have skilled craftsmen who attend the fittings etc.
     


  3. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Hi kpl I hope you don't mind that I pop in randomly and make these pictures for you...
    There are quite some issues which you and your tailor should pay attention to in future commissions. The folds on your chests are there because the overall balance is off, evidenced by the side view and other pictures.

    image1sf.JPG
    image2sf.JPG
     


  4. Falu_al

    Falu_al Senior member

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    Thanks for sharing. Did you alter the thighs, making them wider. I agree the "fall" much nicer but they look less fitted.
     


  5. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    No, didnt touch that part.
     


  6. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Yes, I think that the front/shoulders would fall into place if the cutter took heed of the intended use of the inside pockets. AS you mention it, it appears slightly tight as I previously suggested; however, how many actually fasten the coat buttons to demonstrate this issue?
     


  7. klp2332

    klp2332 Well-Known Member

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    Expert Photoshop magic there; tanks for that. Of course, I don't mind at all -- I welcome all the feedback I can get, whether negative or positive criticism. After all, I'm hiding behind a veil of anonymity here.

    There's some pretty good discussion going on. But I was wondering if you could elaborate on balance and how it would remedy the folds? Do you mean to say that the front length is too short?

    @GBR, Maybe, this is going way beyond me. But what do you mean by the cutter's intended use of inside pockets?
     


  8. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Not only the length but also the waist line. You need to drag the whole front piece down until the folds disappear and the bottom parts hang properly, not flying away from your belly as shown in the side view. I did add some room in chest but that is mainly stylistic choice. Balance is the main issue, and the issue wont disappear by unbuttoning it.
    Try drag the front piece down and see how it works.
     


  9. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    And for the gentleman posted earlier:
    image1hksf.JPG
    image2hksf.JPG
    image3hksf.JPG

    The two suits actually have same problems. No one is significantly better than the other (ok maybe kpl's is better in some way, but not significantly).
     


  10. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    The cutter should have made adequate allowance for your use of the inside pockets, at the present using them would lead to unsightly bulges and when your jacket is fastened lead to stress points which are plainly obvious from day one. These are unsightly.

    To develop this thread further, I too have delved into Photoshop to do another redesign.

    First Up: The back of the Trousers.


    Breake 3  USE.jpg


    1. I first removed the back pockets to tidy the seat area: This is something that I would strongly recommend to you. I then tidied the seat more generally to remove excess cloth.
    2. Second comes the break: The clumsy way in which it has been done leads to folds of cloth where they should be folds of cloth. They have gone.
    Front View

    Break 2  USE.jpg

    1. This again suffers from excess cloth so that the beak is derived from the whole width of the opening. It should primarily come from the line of the crease and you can see that with the left leg.
    2. The break is just the same, I have not touched the point where it lands on your shoe.
    3. I have left the right unaltered to show the point.

    Alternatives to back pockets
    In one of your posts you referred to credit cards and other small things. Do these trousers have a fob pocket? Naughty if they don't as many HK tailors normally fit one.

    Two forms, one just below the belt externally and


    Ext Fob.JPG



    the one which is preferable, access through the top of the waist band.


    Trouser Pocket.jpg




    Hope that this gives you some food for thought.

     


  11. Falu_al

    Falu_al Senior member

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    Interesting read - thanks for sharing!
     


  12. Styleternity

    Styleternity Senior member

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    Hello all, longtime lurker on this lovely thread.

    I hate to flog the proverbial dead horse if someone has already asked this but has any forumite here had 1st hand experience with Suitaccess? They have a well pitched marketing strategy, in conjunction with their (seemingly) adequate communication skills I was interested in finding out a bit more about their product before jumping in.

    The one piece collared shirts look fairly nice.
     


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