SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[spiermackay]

Awesome. Do you only have fabrics in custom that you've made in RTW? I can see a yellow OCBD not selling well, but would it still be possible in custom?

I'd love something like this.

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At the moment yes. It's a carry over from the OTR fabrics. But I literally sat down yesterday with my production manager to figure out how we can get a larger variety of specialty cloth for MTM. For OTR we commit to anywhere between 500-800 metres/colour, way too much for us to risk on niche colours, but there might be a workaround that we are discussing with the Mills.

 

[orange fury]

Scattered sizes left, and on sale!

EThomas - Brown Glen Check - Neapolitan Cut Spier & Mackay

<ul> <li>38% Wool, 34% Silk, 28% Linen from EThomas.</li> <li>270 gsm. Three Season Cool Weather Weight.</li> <li>Half Canvas Construction.</li> <li>3 Roll 2 Front.</li> <li>Notch Lapels.</li> <li>Unpadded, Spalla Camicia Shoulders.</li> <li>Patch

www.spierandmackay.com

Spoiler: Shoe questions...

Good eye both of you— Belgian Shoes “Mr. Casual” med. brown lizard calf, for a very light pebble grain.

I wear black suede ones with black tie. Not the most traditional, but I’ve yet to be tossed out of anywhere for it.

How’s the sole durability? I’m imagining that, like my slippers or AE Verona bit loafers, theyre a “dry weather, mostly non concrete” shoe

 

[theedoor]

I work in a pretty business casual environment (O&G, lots of golf polos and khakis). All I’ve been wearing the past few weeks have been 100% linen shirts and linen/linen blend pants. It’s gone unnoticed and has been like wearing pajamas.

This is great, I’ll look into what linen and blends they still have in stock for MTM. For A/W do you usually wear oxfords? I’ve found the adjustment from business casual to casual to be hard. Harder to find a standard “uniform”

 

[Lancaster]

Generally Scabal and Dormeiul are MTM cloth suppliers who only supply in short cuts to tailors. Rarely will you find their cloth in OTR. Both are cloth merchants and are well known for specialty cloth and interesting designs. Both own small mills that they only produce some of their specialty cloth in. The balance of their cloth is contracted out to other Mills (Such as VBC, Drago, E.Thomas, John Cavendish) They do sell larger quantities on request, but from our conversations the price is still prohibitive for us running something OTR. We do have access to their cloth for MTO/MTM if you wish.

Thanks so much for sharing! Your product stands on its own, but even if it didn't, your CS does. The twin peaks of SM, product and service!

 

[orange fury]

This is great, I’ll look into what linen and blends they still have in stock for MTM. For A/W do you usually wear oxfords? I’ve found the adjustment from business casual to casual to be hard. Harder to find a standard “uniform”

Typically ocbds and chinos or wool dress pants, and I’ll usually carry a blazer/sportcoat with me to the office just in case (that’s worked out well on a couple occasions). Later in the year (November-February), I’ll wear more sportcoats and sweaters (and overcoats), as well as cords, moleskin, flannel, etc.

Also, I love wearing tattersalls in the fall. Is key very much towards GTH/GFY during most of the year (patch madras in summer! Stewart tartan pants in winter!), but one of my favorite outfits is a tattersall shirt with moleskins, a hoofpick or shotshell belt, and a Barbour jacket. I wear this as often as I can in October/November. More casual, but still well put together.

But yeah, uniform for if I’m just throwing something on and getting out the door is ocbd, chinos, and penny or tassel loafers.

@spiermackay- hint hint on the tattersalls, I saw the discussion about Acorn

 

[bnd6xc]

How’s the sole durability? I’m imagining that, like my slippers or AE Verona bit loafers, theyre a “dry weather, mostly non concrete” shoe

The typical process is that you wear them in, return them and they will essentially “topy” them, then you are good to go. In Manhattan I’d say 50 city blocks or so then they’re ready for the sole. They do it in about a week so I usually time up business so that I can drop them off and pick up later.

Pre-topy it’s a leather sole, but think shoe upper leather, rather than shoe sole leather. I wore an unsoled version to an outdoor wedding (think gravel road) and they were fine, but I had the soles added shortly there after.

 

[Wilson13]

What is the consensus on the hem for a casual shirt that will be worn un-tucked? Straight with a ****?

 

[bnd6xc]

What is the consensus on the hem for a casual shirt that will be worn un-tucked? Straight with a ****?

I still like a regular shirt tail, but might want it an inch shorter than something I usually tuck.

A straight hem works best with some combo of a fuller cut, short sleeves or a funky collar.

 

[Eli Curt]

Quick style question for you gents (that's why we're here, isn't it?):

Next week, on Tuesday, I have a couple of meetings in Westchester. Weather looks to be pretty great so far (75 - 85*) and the meetings are:

1. Meeting a prospective client about moving over his portfolio of 25 buildings in The Bronx to my office and
2. Meeting a medium-sized business about my buying them out.

Which suit would you wear, and what kind of tie?

Discuss.

 

[othertravel]

Quick style question for you gents (that's why we're here, isn't it?):

Next week, on Tuesday, I have a couple of meetings in Westchester. Weather looks to be pretty great so far (75 - 85*) and the meetings are:

1. Meeting a prospective client about moving over his portfolio of 25 buildings in The Bronx to my office and
2. Meeting a medium-sized business about my buying them out.

Which suit would you wear, and what kind of tie?

Discuss.

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Easy. Navy suit with navy tie.

 

[pickergc]

dark suit, dark neat tie, white shirt. presuming clients are formal. I'd probably pose this in the "do you still wear a suit to work?" thread or the "waywt" thread -- just not to junk up the affiliate's thread.

 

[Eli Curt]

Easy. Navy suit with navy tie.

Not so much in response to you, but my reasoning when considering a "country" suit is that Westchester's far from the city and it is a few days to August. The idea is to "disarm" and have both meetees feel comfortable with me.

 

[JFK-esque]

Quick style question for you gents (that's why we're here, isn't it?):

Next week, on Tuesday, I have a couple of meetings in Westchester. Weather looks to be pretty great so far (75 - 85*) and the meetings are:

1. Meeting a prospective client about moving over his portfolio of 25 buildings in The Bronx to my office and
2. Meeting a medium-sized business about my buying them out.

Which suit would you wear, and what kind of tie?

Discuss.

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Glen plaid with open collar. You're above the system. They need you, etc. Millionaire business casual

 

[ericgereghty]

At the moment yes. It's a carry over from the OTR fabrics. But I literally sat down yesterday with my production manager to figure out how we can get a larger variety of specialty cloth for MTM. For OTR we commit to anywhere between 500-800 metres/colour, way too much for us to risk on niche colours, but there might be a workaround that we are discussing with the Mills.

More linens and linen/cotton blends please! Happy to throw out ideas/hopes if that's being considered.

This is great, I’ll look into what linen and blends they still have in stock for MTM. For A/W do you usually wear oxfords? I’ve found the adjustment from business casual to casual to be hard. Harder to find a standard “uniform”

Are you in climates where you can get away with linen in fall/winter? If so, that's my choice. I've become an almost exclusive linen wearer over the past 18 months.

 

[orange fury]

The typical process is that you wear them in, return them and they will essentially “topy” them, then you are good to go. In Manhattan I’d say 50 city blocks or so then they’re ready for the sole. They do it in about a week so I usually time up business so that I can drop them off and pick up later.

Pre-topy it’s a leather sole, but think shoe upper leather, rather than shoe sole leather. I wore an unsoled version to an outdoor wedding (think gravel road) and they were fine, but I had the soles added shortly there after.

Awesome, thank you. It’s terrible, but I first became aware of Belgians during Bernie Madoff’s trial, where they were showing his collection as evidence. I thought they looked awesome and have been wanting a pair ever since.

What is the consensus on the hem for a casual shirt that will be worn un-tucked? Straight with a ****?

Either, as long as the shirttail hem isn’t overly long. I’d wear some of my linen PRL shirts untucked, but wouldn’t wear my Brooks dress shirts untucked since they’re several inches longer.

Quick style question for you gents (that's why we're here, isn't it?):

Next week, on Tuesday, I have a couple of meetings in Westchester. Weather looks to be pretty great so far (75 - 85*) and the meetings are:

1. Meeting a prospective client about moving over his portfolio of 25 buildings in The Bronx to my office and
2. Meeting a medium-sized business about my buying them out.

Which suit would you wear, and what kind of tie?

Discuss.

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I have all three of those suits, I’d probably opt for the navy with a white shirt/burgundy grenadine, or the charcoal with a white shirt/navy pindot.