SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[orange fury]

Got my charcoal VBC sharkskin Neapolitan in the mail tonight, love it. It’s different enough from mid gray that I can definitely justify owning both. Charcoal jacket with mid gray pants:

Side by side:

I was nervous the charcoal was going to be a “just shy of black” shade, but this is truly a dark gray. It’ll work great for evening events.

Also, I’m in love with the Neapolitan fit for suits- I can understand how most seem to prefer it for sportcoats only, but I just really love the 3/2 roll, wide lapels, and soft shoulder. I don’t know, the Neapolitan fit just fits me really well.

Edit: as an aside, can’t wait for MTO to launch. I don’t necessarily need it from a fit standpoint (I’ve been really impressed with the OTR fit), but I’m excited to try out different fabrics and full canvas

 

[Identity Crisis]

@spiermackay not going to ask what BF deal will be, but if you are doing one can you say when? Will it start Thursday or Friday?

 

[benjamin831]

Is it the wool/cashmere or the wool/silk/linen gun check.

If it's from SS18 and Neapolitan it's good. Everything from FW18 is good too. Everything before had a lower armhole then the current season.

Or to make life easy. PM your order# and I can see the exact jacket we're talking about.

This is the jacket I got:

https://www.spierandmackay.com/ethomas-blue-brown-gun-check-slim-fit.html

 

[SJR3]

Got my charcoal VBC sharkskin Neapolitan in the mail tonight, love it. It’s different enough from mid gray that I can definitely justify owning both. Charcoal jacket with mid gray pants:
View attachment 1075047

Side by side:
View attachment 1075048

I was nervous the charcoal was going to be a “just shy of black” shade, but this is truly a dark gray. It’ll work great for evening events.

Also, I’m in love with the Neapolitan fit for suits- I can understand how most seem to prefer it for sportcoats only, but I just really love the 3/2 roll, wide lapels, and soft shoulder. I don’t know, the Neapolitan fit just fits me really well.

Edit: as an aside, can’t wait for MTO to launch. I don’t necessarily need it from a fit standpoint (I’ve been really impressed with the OTR fit), but I’m excited to try out different fabrics and full canvas

I had the charcoal but sold it. Honestly the 0.6 cm AMF (instead of the 0.2 AMF these were supposed to be) killed the Neo v3 suits for me.

I also much prefer the latest iteration of v3 lapels as seen on the recent sportcoats and chalk stripe suits, which seem to have less negative belly and are more of a true 3r2 instead of 2.5.

Finally, isn't that jacket a bit short for you?

 

[Riva]

Finally, isn't that jacket a bit short for you?

Can't see the whole outfit so can't gauge from just the position of the thumb.

 

[SJR3]

Can't see the whole outfit so can't gauge from just the position of the thumb.

True. But I'm not basing my observation solely on thumb position. (Also, the thumb test is more accurate/applies to more people than its detractors will admit.)

 

[orange fury]

I had the charcoal but sold it. Honestly the 0.6 cm AMF (instead of the 0.2 AMF these were supposed to be) killed the Neo v3 suits for me.

I also much prefer the latest iteration of v3 lapels as seen on the recent sportcoats and chalk stripe suits, which seem to have less negative belly and are more of a true 3r2 instead of 2.5.

Finally, isn't that jacket a bit short for you?

Admittedly I would prefer it to be a touch longer (I think the back on a 38R is 29.5”- 30” is usually better for me, so if a 38L existed that might be better, but could also run the risk of being too long), but the back does cover my butt. I think it’s exacebated here by the bottom of the photo being cut off and the mismatch in pant/jacket colors. I also noticed, throwing on the jacket right now, that when my arms are at rest while looking in the mirror, the jacket does hit the knuckle of my thumb- not sure why it looks like that in the pic.

I have a vintage Corbin blazer that is a 3/2.5, I wouldn’t consider this a 3/2.5- the roll on this is much more pronounced to the button. Just my opinion though.

Also, what is AMF?

Edit: I’ve been looking at the size chart this morning. Both suits are 38R and fit everywhere else. If I were to size up to a 40R (29.9” length) or 40L (30.9” length), I could narrow the chest and shorten the sleeves, but I couldn’t do much about the 18.1” shoulders (the 17.7” on the 38 fit, but any bigger and I feel it would start to divot).

 

[SJR3]

Admittedly I would prefer it to be a touch longer (I think the back on a 38R is 29.5”- 30” is usually better for me so if a 38L existed that might be better, but could also run the risk of being too long), but the back does cover my butt. I think it’s exacebated here by the bottom of the photo being cut off and the mismatch in pant/jacket colors.

I have a vintage Corbin blazer that is a 3/2.5, I wouldn’t consider this a 3/2.5- the roll on this is much more pronounced to the button. Just my opinion though.

Also, what is AMF?

AMF refers to the pick stitching, the distance from the edge of the lapel. It was supposed to be right along the edge (0.2 cm) as is common for suits. But instead it was done further from the edge, giving the lapels the casual "swelled edge" look more typical of cotton and other very casual jackets. Here's the original quote from Rick on the matter when the suits were released:

Gents, the pre-orders are up for the v3 Neapolitan suits. Est. Ship date is Tuesday, May 15th.

https://www.spierandmackay.com/shop/apparel/new-arrivals.html

The same adjustments that we carried out on the Neapolitan jackets have been done to the suits. So fitting, details are the same. Only different is the pockets. They are flapped, but can easily be tucked in to make them jetted if that's your preference.

In all openness, these suits came in with a 0.6 cm AMF instead of the 0.2 AMF that we requested. The current factory has not been the most cooperative this season and just getting these suits out was a challenge. If this is something that will bother you to high hell, then I suggest not to order. And yes, this is probably disappointing to some, we are completely aware of it. That said, surprisingly, it looks good and works well with the soft casualness of the cut.

View attachment 970194 View attachment 970195 View attachment 970197

Not a huge issue, but since charcoal worsted wool suits are by nature rather formal, I couldn't get over the incongruence.

 

[SJR3]

Admittedly I would prefer it to be a touch longer (I think the back on a 38R is 29.5”- 30” is usually better for me so if a 38L existed that might be better, but could also run the risk of being too long), but the back does cover my butt. I think it’s exacebated here by the bottom of the photo being cut off and the mismatch in pant/jacket colors.

I have a vintage Corbin blazer that is a 3/2.5, I wouldn’t consider this a 3/2.5- the roll on this is much more pronounced to the button. Just my opinion though.

Also, what is AMF?

As for the lapels, compare these images:



I greatly prefer the second image, the latest iteration of the Neapolitan lapels. A true 3r2 and no negative belly.

I recognize this is preference. I also admit I'm not sure if any changes were actually specified, or if this is simply a case of normal variance between production runs, or perhaps an entirely different factory altogether. Maybe Rick can offer insight.

But if we can get a "bright navy" hopsack Neapolitan sportcoat with lapels just like the navy jacket above, I'll be a very happy man.

 

[orange fury]

AMF refers to the pick stitching, the distance from the edge of the lapel. It was supposed to be right along the edge (0.2 cm) as is common for suits. But instead it was done further from the edge, giving the lapels the casual "swelled edge" look more typical of cotton and other very casual jackets. Here's the original quote from Rick on the matter when the suits were released:

Not a huge issue, but since charcoal worsted wool suits are by nature rather formal, I couldn't get over the incongruence.

Gotcha, I hadn’t even noticed tbh. Not a huge concern for me I guess.

As for the lapels, compare these images:

View attachment 1075224 View attachment 1075225

I greatly prefer the second image, the latest iteration of the Neapolitan lapels. A true 3r2 and no negative belly.

I recognize this is preference. I also admit I'm not sure if any changes were actually specified, or if this is simply a case of normal variance between production runs, or perhaps an entirely different factory altogether. Maybe Rick can offer insight.

But if we can get a "bright navy" hopsack Neapolitan sportcoat with lapels just like the navy jacket above, I'll be a very happy man.

Fully agree- I was looking at that med blue Drago Neo SC and was considering swapping the buttons, but I don’t need another navy flannel (which I assume it is, based on the “cool weather weight” descriptor)

 

[smsuits]

@spiermackay Can you please confirm whether there are more fabrics coming soon to custom shirts, or if the current set is the expanded offering that’s been mentioned over the last few months? Just trying to plan BF purchases.

Also, could someone summarize or point me to a resource about the differences in the MTM white shirt fabrics on offer? I really dislike translucent white shirts so would like to avoid that with my choice.

 

[DFWWingnut]

Grey Brown Check IRL

 

[TurboTropic]

I recently purchased two suits from S&M as I was in desperate need following rapid weight loss. I've now realized that I need to make some alterations in order for the jackets to fit correctly, namely waist suppression. Can anyone comment on the quality of alterations there and pricing? Thanks

 

[Jason Kadushin]

looking for a little feedback from folks who have seen these in the wild (@spiermackay)...i need to replace my navy blue suit with another "blue" suit. I want to get something a bit more informal than a say a sharkskin or similiar. I will sometimes go w/o tie. looking at these three...navy pin texture, Guabello Blue Texture, Navy. thoughts?

also what are thoughts on the green tweed, baby camel or (gasp!) the light brown windowpane with denim?

 

[JFK-esque]

also what are thoughts on the green tweed, baby camel or (gasp!) the light brown windowpane with denim?

of course! that is a perfect combo