SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Stylewords]

I've had some safaris which belt loops I took out and the waist taken in a bit. The belt is strictly a style issue and bothersome in my book. Plus it looks bad if you have a belly, which I don't, but a warning otherwise.

Yes, I've been put off the safaris because of the belt. Perhaps just removing the belt loops (if it doesn't leave any marks) would be a solution.

 

[palandar]

Ulsters are up for pre-order. Interesting fit note from S&M: "Note: Our ulster overcoat features a fuller cut & longer length that is designed to be worn over tailoring. We recommend taking your normal jacket size if you plan to wear it over a suit or sportcoat."

So is it advisable to size down if one does not expect to wear it over a suit/SC?

 

[James1051]

So is it advisable to size down if one does not expect to wear it over a suit/SC?

Short answer: we don't know
Based on the overcoat and polo coat fits last year, you size up to wear them over suits; if not, take your normal size.
The note on the new ulster coats, advising normal size to wear over suits, does not necessarily square with the Fit Chart.
So, more info needed from the owner

 

[orange fury]

So is it advisable to size down if one does not expect to wear it over a suit/SC?

Expected to ship 10/7, so I'll compare them in a couple weeks

 

[breakaway01]

So is it advisable to size down if one does not expect to wear it over a suit/SC?

We will see but IMO overcoats almost always look better when generously sized rather than sized to be trim/snug in fit. Even if you don’t wear over a tailored jacket, many people would want to be able to wear over a sweater. An ulster is not really the right coat to wear over just a shirt but if you want to do that, the current style is to go larger than than smaller.

 

[masernaut]

Is it just me or are the chunky cardigans of this year slimmer and/or have a higher armhole?

 

[Duke Santos]

Speaking of chunky cardigans, any word on timing?

 

[reidrothchild]

Received my green moleskin field jacket yesterday. Love everything about it--fit, color, material. I was worried it would overlap with a suede overshirt I own, but the moleskin is a lot heavier/warmer than my unlined suede shacket, so it will be the one I grab as temps start dropping or if there's a chance of precipitation.

 

[ericgereghty]

I've had some safaris which belt loops I took out and the waist taken in a bit. The belt is strictly a style issue and bothersome in my book. Plus it looks bad if you have a belly, which I don't, but a warning otherwise.

In fairness, very few things look better on a fat frame.

 

[Riva]

In fairness, very few things look better on a fat frame.

In general yes. But when talking about the safari in particular the thick fabric belt adds so much mass in front of the waist that it looks particularly bad on someone with a beer belly. The opposite effect is actually achieved when the same guy uses a belt with regular pants as the belt makes the bulge above the pants less apparent.

 

[SumDude]

Received my green moleskin field jacket yesterday. Love everything about it--fit, color, material. I was worried it would overlap with a suede overshirt I own, but the moleskin is a lot heavier/warmer than my unlined suede shacket, so it will be the one I grab as temps start dropping or if there's a chance of precipitation.

Can you provide some pictures? On the fence about picking this up. ?

 

[reidrothchild]

Can you provide some pictures? On the fence about picking this up. ?

Yeah, I'll snap a few this evening.

 

[SumDude]

Yeah, I'll snap a few this evening.

Thanks. I have seen @RajunCajun pictures and @Kappelan and they look different (besides color). The herringbone wool looks more like a "jacket" than the moleskin "workshirt". Maybe it's just they way the two are wearing them? ?‍♂️

 

[Riva]

In any case, the safari / field jacket is not something that you can just pick up and look good in it. I really want to use safaris as everyday alternative to the sportjacket and went as far as bespoke through 100Hands, Rubinacci, etc to the cheap rtws. Only a few I can actually use and the rest must be sold off. Far more variables must to be considered and visualized compared to a regular sportjacket:

- Can you rock the belt or not? I personally removed the belts and slim the waist on mines
- Are you ok with drawstrings that looks like elastic waist? I removed all drawstrings and slimmed as well.
- Does it have halfbelt at the back (which may look ugly when the jacket is too short)?
- Are the pockets shaped like middle aged woman's boobs? Or the opposite being too stiff squared?
- Are the lower pockets positioned too low? (a ***** when you need to shorten the jacket)
- Are they styled as to make women mistake you for a chauffeur or security officer or just too out of place in an urban setting or vs your personal style?

PS: There is one well known new brand that makes safaris that stands above the rest by far in terms of quality and style but I'm not going to mention in this thread.

 

[orange fury]

We will see but IMO overcoats almost always look better when generously sized rather than sized to be trim/snug in fit. Even if you don’t wear over a tailored jacket, many people would want to be able to wear over a sweater. An ulster is not really the right coat to wear over just a shirt but if you want to do that, the current style is to go larger than than smaller.

Agree with this. If you look back at overcoats over the years, its acceptable for them to run a bit bigger to allow for layering.