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mlcgloves

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I'm looking to get a navy Neo cut suit that I can wear year round for things like weddings, interviews, etc. Does have anyone have insight on if the VBC 4-ply or the Fresco under Previews would be a better option? Or should I look for a different fabric MTO?
 

JTrent82

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The new waistcoats really highlight the lack of lining options S&M offers. This looks awful imo.
1649278636571.png
 

DapperPhilly

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Can't help the divot unless you do custom and even then, that's an expensive handmade thing. However, what you're noticing is a detail 99% of the population won't even see. The suit looks great on you. It may also pop out to you a lot more initially because for the longest time, no padding has been the trend. With a DB, the shoulders definitely give you the "power" look.
Thanks for your reply. I agree, almost nobody else would notice the divot but I would know its there.
 

jrdngr

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Speaking of DB, would really appreciate some feedback on a wedding suit from you guys!

My dress attire is fairly limited compared to most on here, a couple suits and a handful of sport coats. Everything is Spier though so I have my size nailed down fairly well.

I was considering going MTO to allow for a few tweaks and the potential addition of a waistcoat as well.

The fabric I'm leaning towards is the light gray POW by Drago: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/light-gray-prince-of-wales-check-223c-571-01-mto-s
SpierAndMackayFW21_223C57101-MTO_43663-Edit.jpg

I also like this VBC Glen Check: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/vbc---gray-glen-check-865205-1-mto-s

865205-MTM-1.jpg

But I'm open to other suggestions also!

My questions would be:
I'm quite slim - 36R jacket, but 6 feet tall. Would a double breasted jacket look a bit busy on my frame? Do people tend to skip the vest when it comes to DB?

Does the POW fabric call for being a DB suit, or would it still work well going single breast + waistcoat instead.

If I went with the waistcoat, are there standard areas on the jacket I should add more room to accommodate? Waist, chest?

If it helps with anything, the wedding is in Vancouver in mid-September, so potential to be anywhere from a cool rainy day to quite warm.

Apologies for the probably basic questions and thank you for any insights!
 

schraiber

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I received this navy DB yesterday (Guabello 130's) and while I like the fabric and color I'm not sure I like the English cut. Padded and roped shoulders. Also you can see on one side the jacket has a large divot regardless of how I stand. It looks like it goes back. Thoughts/opinions are appreciated.

View attachment 1776436 View attachment 1776437 View attachment 1776438
I think it looks pretty good, but mainly I'm commenting to express my jealousy of people for whom the sleeves aren't hilariously long off the rack. My short arms mean that off the rack jackets usually go down past my thumb knuckle!
 

stuffedsuperdud

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Speaking of DB, would really appreciate some feedback on a wedding suit from you guys!

My dress attire is fairly limited compared to most on here, a couple suits and a handful of sport coats. Everything is Spier though so I have my size nailed down fairly well.

I was considering going MTO to allow for a few tweaks and the potential addition of a waistcoat as well.

The fabric I'm leaning towards is the light gray POW by Drago: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/light-gray-prince-of-wales-check-223c-571-01-mto-s
SpierAndMackayFW21_223C57101-MTO_43663-Edit.jpg

I also like this VBC Glen Check: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/vbc---gray-glen-check-865205-1-mto-s

865205-MTM-1.jpg

But I'm open to other suggestions also!

My questions would be:
I'm quite slim - 36R jacket, but 6 feet tall. Would a double breasted jacket look a bit busy on my frame? Do people tend to skip the vest when it comes to DB?

Does the POW fabric call for being a DB suit, or would it still work well going single breast + waistcoat instead.

If I went with the waistcoat, are there standard areas on the jacket I should add more room to accommodate? Waist, chest?

If it helps with anything, the wedding is in Vancouver in mid-September, so potential to be anywhere from a cool rainy day to quite warm.

Apologies for the probably basic questions and thank you for any insights!

Hello! Maybe I can help as you've touched on a few of my favorite things: PoW suits, 3-piece suits, and DB jackets. I don't believe in any of the guidelines saying that people of X body-type shouldn't year a Y-style garment, and with DBs specifically I was actually originally told that if anything, they were better for tall slim guys like you and not gnomes like me. I don't think it'.. look too "busy" as they'll scale down the button positions proportionally. I would skip the ticket pocket they have in the example, and perhaps opt for jetted pockets instead of flapped, to clean up any potential clutter. Jetted pockets are give you a cleaner pattern-match, whereas the flaps would disrupt it somewhat.

There's no relationship that I know of between PoW and SB vs DB. Now PoW is considered a bit more casual than just a plain glen plaid like in the VBC fabric, which in turn is considered a bit more casual than a solid gray, so for the formality of your wedding that's something to consider perhaps.

I think most people skip getting a waistcoat for their DB suits because it's barely visible with the DB buttoned, and you would hardly ever walk around with a DB unbuttoned, but I actually am a huge fan of the 3-piece DB. It's kind of a fun throwback to the style of the interwar years, plus if it warms up and you're sitting outside, you can take the jacket off and still look put together. Might be worthwhile to check with SM and see just how visible the vest might be with their templates.

With a heavier fabric you might want to give yourself an extra 0.5" or so in the waist to make room for the vest. This seems like a lightweight fabric so you probably don't need to change anything, assuming your current Spier jackets are not cut super close.
 

DapperPhilly

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Speaking of DB, would really appreciate some feedback on a wedding suit from you guys!

My dress attire is fairly limited compared to most on here, a couple suits and a handful of sport coats. Everything is Spier though so I have my size nailed down fairly well.

I was considering going MTO to allow for a few tweaks and the potential addition of a waistcoat as well.

The fabric I'm leaning towards is the light gray POW by Drago: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/light-gray-prince-of-wales-check-223c-571-01-mto-s
SpierAndMackayFW21_223C57101-MTO_43663-Edit.jpg

I also like this VBC Glen Check: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/vbc---gray-glen-check-865205-1-mto-s

865205-MTM-1.jpg

But I'm open to other suggestions also!

My questions would be:
I'm quite slim - 36R jacket, but 6 feet tall. Would a double breasted jacket look a bit busy on my frame? Do people tend to skip the vest when it comes to DB?

Does the POW fabric call for being a DB suit, or would it still work well going single breast + waistcoat instead.

If I went with the waistcoat, are there standard areas on the jacket I should add more room to accommodate? Waist, chest?

If it helps with anything, the wedding is in Vancouver in mid-September, so potential to be anywhere from a cool rainy day to quite warm.

Apologies for the probably basic questions and thank you for any insights!
Both those suits are really nice. I'm not a wedding expert in regard to dress but that DB would maybe show up the groom which is the number one no-no to do at a wedding. But that might just be that I think that particular DB is really gorgeous.
And it also depends what the groom is wearing. If he is a friend (or the bride) you can ask them.
 

jrdngr

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Hello! Maybe I can help as you've touched on a few of my favorite things: PoW suits, 3-piece suits, and DB jackets......

Wow, this helps immensely, thank you so much!

I really do prefer the look of the DB in the POW so I may head that direction. I was curious about the visibility of the waistcoat so maybe to make things simple I could skip that if I went DB. I'm in agreement on the ticket pocket/flaps as well. I guess my next concern would just be baseline fit of a DB compared to SB from Spier. I'd assume they should fit the same.

I definitely assumed the opposite on the formality of POW vs. Glen Check vs. solid, thanks for pointing that out as well.

I'll run the colors and DB/SB+waistcoat by my partner as well to see what she thinks before moving forward. Again, can't thank you enough!

Both those suits are really nice. I'm not a wedding expert in regard to dress but that DB would maybe show up the groom which is the number one no-no to do at a wedding. But that might just be that I think that particular DB is really gorgeous.
And it also depends what the groom is wearing. If he is a friend (or the bride) you can ask them.

Thank you as well for the reply! I will be the groom so no concern there :)

I certainly agree with you about how that DB looks - I actually was really interested in the thicker fabric, full canvas Hardy Minnis POW, but I think I would run too hot with that.
 

breakaway01

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Speaking of DB, would really appreciate some feedback on a wedding suit from you guys!

My dress attire is fairly limited compared to most on here, a couple suits and a handful of sport coats. Everything is Spier though so I have my size nailed down fairly well.

I was considering going MTO to allow for a few tweaks and the potential addition of a waistcoat as well.

The fabric I'm leaning towards is the light gray POW by Drago: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/light-gray-prince-of-wales-check-223c-571
I also like this VBC Glen Check: https://www.spierandmackay.com/product/vbc---gray-glen-check-865205-1-mto-s


But I'm open to other suggestions also!

My questions would be:
I'm quite slim - 36R jacket, but 6 feet tall. Would a double breasted jacket look a bit busy on my frame? Do people tend to skip the vest when it comes to DB?

Does the POW fabric call for being a DB suit, or would it still work well going single breast + waistcoat instead.

My two cents FWIW. I think it’s harder to get a really good fit with a DB jacket than with a SB jacket. The button stance, length, and body shaping have to be more precise to look good. If you don’t already have a DB pattern dialed in or already have a good sense of how the RTW DB pattern fits you, I’d personally go SB for a time-sensitive project like my own wedding.
At 6’ I’d think that the 36R is short on you? Definitely add some length to the jacket. Be sure the waistcoat is long enough as well if you are getting a 3 piece suit.
Congratulations by the way!
 
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