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[NYC] Enzo Custom Suit - How's the fit?

Ardvatar

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Hello, if you've seen any of my past posts/comments on other threads I've been in the market for a MTO suit. With my chest size, it's been difficult my whole life to buy anything RTW. Below are some images of my first fitting of the suit since it was made. In 1 week, there will be some alterations made. I will update here with new fitting pics when I return on Thursday again. I went with Enzo's in NYC. Super 140 Charcoal gray in-house fabric. Shirt was also made to order, I think it looks good and doesn't constrain my neck at all. Felt great overall and the suit was very comfortable as well.

In another thread I was conflicted with 3.5" vs 4" lapels, very happy I went 4". I think it's perfect for my shoulder/chest width.

Alterations being made:
  1. Bringing pants waist in about 1/2"
  2. Letting out jacket waist, cannot remember how much they said. I believe 3/8"
  3. Shortening sleeves a touch, 1/4" I believe
My concerns are:
  1. How the left sleeve falls, might be better when shortened.
  2. The armpit/rear shoulder area bunching?
  3. Front of pants look okay now that I'm looking at the images, but the rear looks slightly bunched.
  4. My shirt is seen near my waist, below the button, and I believe it shouldn't be seen. Hopefully letting the waist of the coat out a little makes this fall better and hide that portion of my waist.
 

KOz

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Everything is so, so tight - the chest, back, waist. Trousers are bunching behind the knee and not draping properly. The trousers are also not high waisted enough, exaggerating the peaking shirt problem.

Personally I think the issues are beyond the scope of alterations. I'd ask for my money back.
 

Ardvatar

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Everything is so, so tight - the chest, back, waist. Trousers are bunching behind the knee and not draping properly. The trousers are also not high waisted enough, exaggerating the peaking shirt problem.

Personally I think the issues are beyond the scope of alterations. I'd ask for my money back.
Sigh, that is worrying. Lost a month having this made, so with a June 30 date of needing a suit I guess I'll have to try to force a RTW option.

After looking at the pictures again, things do feel very tight. Wondering how they could have gotten it so wrong.
 

KOz

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Sigh, that is worrying. Lost a month having this made, so with a June 30 date of needing a suit I guess I'll have to try to force a RTW option.

After looking at the pictures again, things do feel very tight. Wondering how they could have gotten it so wrong.
To be fair, I looked at their website and I'm seeing all the worrying signs, such as tight and short jackets, as well as skin-tight trousers.
 

Ardvatar

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To be fair, I looked at their website and I'm seeing all the worrying signs, such as tight and short jackets, as well as skin-tight trousers.
I'd attribute not catching these myself to not being well versed in suit wear.

Other's on the forum shopped here and their suits looked good to me in some postings, at the price point I was looking at and also the turn around time I needed. I was considering No Man Walks Alone but their turn around as 2 months.

Any suggestions for a NYC dweller?
 

Ardvatar

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Check out:

The Armoury (high end)
J. Press (mid tier)
Suit Supply (low end)

You could also mail order Spier and Mackay, order 2 nearest sizes and then choose and alter
Thanks!

There is a Suit Supply near me so I'll head there after work. At this point, going cheap and splurging later is probably going to be my best option.

I went to The Armoury last month, but they only had 2 jackets RTW that fit me. (They weren't colors I wanted, but they were very kind!) :(

Going MTO at The Armoury would be out of my budget I think. However, in hindsight, I would have rather had a good experience for the higher cost.
 

classicalthunde

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Thanks!

There is a Suit Supply near me so I'll head there after work. At this point, going cheap and splurging later is probably going to be my best option.

I went to The Armoury last month, but they only had 2 jackets RTW that fit me. (They weren't colors I wanted, but they were very kind!) :(

Going MTO at The Armoury would be out of my budget I think. However, in hindsight, I would have rather had a good experience for the higher cost.

I was a 46/48, so I sort of understand...the good thing about SuitSupply is that even if they don't have anything in your size in stock at the store their sizing online goes up to 50 I believe and you could get it altered by them.

If and when you're ready to splurge on custom again, I'd highly recommend Divij Bespoke...he comes to NYC 4x a year and has a great quality to price ratio. Happy to discuss more over DM if you're interested.

When buying a suit (primarily custom, but also RTW to an extend) its important to note that buying the 'fitter' is just as important as buying the 'suit'...it could be the best quality in the world, but if the guy fitting you doesn't know what has doing or makes bad design choices its all moot anyways.

Lastly, this has happened to all of us in our custom/bespoke/mtm journey at some point. I believe Mark Cho from the Armoury coined the term 'school fees' for sunk cost of bad commissions.
 

Ardvatar

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I was a 46/48, so I sort of understand...the good thing about SuitSupply is that even if they don't have anything in your size in stock at the store their sizing online goes up to 50 I believe and you could get it altered by them.

If and when you're ready to splurge on custom again, I'd highly recommend Divij Bespoke...he comes to NYC 4x a year and has a great quality to price ratio. Happy to discuss more over DM if you're interested.

When buying a suit (primarily custom, but also RTW to an extend) its important to note that buying the 'fitter' is just as important as buying the 'suit'...it could be the best quality in the world, but if the guy fitting you doesn't know what has doing or makes bad design choices its all moot anyways.

Lastly, this has happened to all of us in our custom/bespoke/mtm journey at some point. I believe Mark Cho from the Armoury coined the term 'school fees' for sunk cost of bad commissions.
I tried to learn as much as I could before diving in, but it's difficult overall so I'm paying my school fees either way haha! Appreciative of your help and everyone on the forum. I'll shoot you a DM!

Crossing my fingers for Suit Supply to work out.

Yeah, I was confident in Enzo at first because he noticed some things like my right arm slouching a bit more than my left so he adjusted arm length for that. In terms of fitters, seemed good at first, but if the house style is super slim then I fell into that hole unfortunately. As a bigger guy, slimmer cuts make me feel like I look top heavy and a little silly.
 

jonathanS

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Sigh, that is worrying. Lost a month having this made, so with a June 30 date of needing a suit I guess I'll have to try to force a RTW option.

After looking at the pictures again, things do feel very tight. Wondering how they could have gotten it so wrong.
How big is your chest?

Go into suitsupply, ask if they have size 58 or 60. I suspect it’ll be fine.
 

Ardvatar

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How big is your chest?

Go into suitsupply, ask if they have size 58 or 60. I suspect it’ll be fine.
49 inches around last I measured, at Enzo they measured the same. I think it'll be alright at Suit Supply - but I'm always borderline on RTW stuff.
 

jonathanS

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49 inches around last I measured, at Enzo they measured the same. I think it'll be alright at Suit Supply - but I'm always borderline on RTW stuff.
You should be okay with size 58;or 60 (European). 48/50 us. You may have to take the waist in
 

Ardvatar

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I hate coming back here and seeing the Enzo suit. Supposed to go at 5pm today to see if the adjustments made it any better.

@jonathanS I went to suit supply and found a gray suit off the rack that was phenomenal. Shortening the pants, more seat room to help the pockets fall flat, and shortening the jacket sleeves slightly and bringing in the waist of the jacket slightly are the only alterations I needed. Pleasantly surprised they had something off the rack that fit and wish I had just started here a month ago.

I pick the Suit Supply suit up Friday, will post both the Enzo updates and the Suit Supply photos this week!

Thanks everyone.
 

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