Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[oldworldelegance]

Just got back from the tailor to commission a suit this time.

Fox City CharNavy FC17

Classic single breasted with Flap pockets and peak lapel

Wanted to get thoughts about Peak vs Notch Lapels for a “business” style suit. My suitsupply ones had Peaks and I thought they went well but I wonder if notch would be better for this commission? (Although he said it will be changable at first fitting if I decide not to go with it)

There are peaks and there are peaks. It all depends on what sort of effect you want.
One option is a fairly flat peak lapel, with the peak almost pointing sideways. This tailor makes such peaks, I have them for my DBs.

The other option is a wider-than-average (for your size) lapel. It's not a peak of course, but if what you're looking for is a lapel with more of a presence, this is one way to go.

To avoid "bat wings" (unless that's what you like), the lapels should have little to no belly and the buttoning point should be fairly low (within reason, to maintain proportions).

 

[classicalthunde]

Divij @ Divij Bespoke convinced me to try single button as well and I'm sold as well for formal suits.

oooh, maybe I'll consider this for my next commission with Divij! next one on deck is a formal-ish business style navy suit.

 

[ppk]

oooh, maybe I'll consider this for my next commission with Divij! next one on deck is a formal-ish business style navy suit.

Mine is exactly that in a fabric by Dormeuil. I wear mine every week. I have had multiple compliments on it.

 

[Texasmade]

for me, sbpl is better on English tailoring and Milanese / Roman.

I’ve never been into sbpl for Florence or Neapolitan with the obvious exception being tuxedos

Kind of agree. I always thought peak looked weird on Florence or Neapolitan tailoring. I have a single button PL from Cifonelli that looks pretty nice.

 

[clee1982]

There are peaks and there are peaks. It all depends on what sort of effect you want.
One option is a fairly flat peak lapel, with the peak almost pointing sideways. This tailor makes such peaks, I have them for my DBs.

The other option is a wider-than-average (for your size) lapel. It's not a peak of course, but if what you're looking for is a lapel with more of a presence, this is one way to go.

To avoid "bat wings" (unless that's what you like), the lapels should have little to no belly and the buttoning point should be fairly low (within reason, to maintain proportions).

I always thought button point should be lower, but MB convinced me otherwise (or I suppose English in general) to him you loose the skirt. It’s not high either, just higher than Italian

 

[brax]

Just got back from the tailor to commission a suit this time.

Fox City CharNavy FC17

Classic single breasted with Flap pockets and peak lapel

Wanted to get thoughts about Peak vs Notch Lapels for a “business” style suit. My suitsupply ones had Peaks and I thought they went well but I wonder if notch would be better for this commission? (Although he said it will be changable at first fitting if I decide not to go with it)

For me this is easy. Get notch lapels on SB business suits and peak lapels on DB business suits. If you are looking at non-business suits, stay with peak lapels for DB suits but you can opt for either lapel for SB suits. It you opt for nonbusiness SBPL then be certain to get it one button.

 

[oldworldelegance]

I always thought button point should be lower, but MB convinced me otherwise (or I suppose English in general) to him you loose the skirt. It’s not high either, just higher than Italian

Of course the buttoning point has to be proportional, so when we say lower or higher we mean just a little bit either way. That’s true for most tailoring, we’re talking about small changes, although they can change the overall appearance of the jacket.

It’s fair to say that going lower means less skirt flair and going higher means shorter, less elongated lapels. It all depends what you want to prioritise and what look you’re after. It’s also possible to extend the lapels by having a higher gorge too.

 

[S K M]

As promised a small report from my latest trip to Naples. Started off at Paone for three fittings (LL Piuma, Fox Air, and W. Bill linen) and went on to have the trousers fitted by Cerrato before ending up at Luca Avitabile where I ordered nine new shirts and an over shirt in linen.

Paone was great as always, amazing first fitting though sleeves will obviously be lengthened. For more photos and details I have posted some in the Paone thread.

Cerrato was as always spot on in his fitting. He has moved to a new atelier in Via Chaia (third location in the time I have known him!) and business seemed to be bustling, judging from the size of his atelier as compared to the previous ones. He travels a lot these days, New York, London, and Amsterdam, since interest is a lot bigger there than in Italy.

Lastly Luca Avitabile, great as always. I'm always impressed with his very precise advise when picking fabric for shirts regarding how the shirt can be used. For instance we discussed two blue stripes in cotton linen, the only difference being the one being one or two millimetres wider than the other, and Luca advised that the former could be used for the office, whereas the latter would probably be too casual for that purpose. I hadn't paid much attention to such a subtle detail, but Luca obviously had, and I had to agree with him.

 

[tdang]

Ư

As promised a small report from my latest trip to Naples. Started off at Paone for three fittings (LL Piuma, Fox Air, and W. Bill linen) and went on to have the trousers fitted by Cerrato before ending up at Luca Avitabile where I ordered nine new shirts and an over shirt in linen.

Paone was great as always, amazing first fitting though sleeves will obviously be lengthened. For more photos and details I have posted some in the Paone thread.

View attachment 2188233
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Cerrato was as always spot on in his fitting. He has moved to a new atelier in Via Chaia (third location in the time I have known him!) and business seemed to be bustling, judging from the size of his atelier as compared to the previous ones. He travels a lot these days, New York, London, and Amsterdam, since interest is a lot bigger there than in Italy.

View attachment 2188237
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Lastly Luca Avitabile, great as always. I'm always impressed with his very precise advise when picking fabric for shirts regarding how the shirt can be used. For instance we discussed two blue stripes in cotton linen, the only difference being the one being one or two millimetres wider than the other, and Luca advised that the former could be used for the office, whereas the latter would probably be too casual for that purpose. I hadn't paid much attention to such a subtle detail, but Luca obviously had, and I had to agree with him.

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What a tour - love the shirting selections at L.A.

Meanwhile, just got an update from Kotaro's cutting table. Love the riotous ivy over check on this cloth.

 

[jonathanS]

Thinking of placing an order for 4 pairs of trousers to rebuild my summer wardrobe. Thinking 3 pairs of gray high twist / frescos & 1 beige.

Thoughts?

My thinking is belt. But my weight keeps fluctuating, so maybe I should consider side adjusters. They’d be high twist, so side adjusters make more sense (vs. flannel, where they become worthless). But I have some awesome belts I like to wear.

 

[Sreezy36]

Thinking of placing an order for 4 pairs of trousers to rebuild my summer wardrobe. Thinking 3 pairs of gray high twist / frescos & 1 beige.

Thoughts?

My thinking is belt. But my weight keeps fluctuating, so maybe I should consider side adjusters. They’d be high twist, so side adjusters make more sense (vs. flannel, where they become worthless). But I have some awesome belts I like to wear.

Lightgrey
Mid grey
Light taupe/beige
Dark taupe(donkey)

All high twist

 

[aristoi bcn]

This was my second order from Cerrato. July of 2017 if memory serves. All 3 Minnis Fresco. Couldn’t wear them for some years as I got on weight so last year I asked Marco to let them in in the waist.

 

[_AMD]

Ư

What a tour - love the shirting selections at L.A.

Meanwhile, just got an update from Kotaro's cutting table. Love the riotous ivy over check on this cloth.

View attachment 2188249

I’ve come back to look at this one several times. I can’t get enough of that green over check. I’m a fan of Lovat so I’ll need to keep my eye out for this one. Great choice! I’m looking forward to seeing your finished jacket.

 

[The_Schmidt]

Thinking of placing an order for 4 pairs of trousers to rebuild my summer wardrobe. Thinking 3 pairs of gray high twist / frescos & 1 beige.

Thoughts?

My thinking is belt. But my weight keeps fluctuating, so maybe I should consider side adjusters. They’d be high twist, so side adjusters make more sense (vs. flannel, where they become worthless). But I have some awesome belts I like to wear.

Depending on how many trousers you have and how bad the summer is, Id wager that some linen trousers (e.g. in brown or green or blue) are really versatile. However, you need to be into the sexy wrinkles

Edit: high twist various greys (typically lighter tones than what you would wear in the darker months) are obviously the more classical choice.

Also, I personally prefer side adjusters and I am suffering from fluctuating weight as well.

 

[jonathanS]

Depending on how many trousers you have and how bad the summer is, Id wager that some linen trousers (e.g. in brown or green or blue) are really versatile. However, you need to be into the sexy wrinkles

Edit: high twist various greys (typically lighter tones than what you would wear in the darker months) are obviously the more classical choice.

Also, I personally prefer side adjusters and I am suffering from fluctuating weight as well.

I was thinking about a linen. But Im kinda rebuilding my trouser wardrobe. It’s one thing that’s lagged behind.

It’s been one of those things I’ve had a harder time justifying spending money on. I’m moving to Florida too, so summer trousers = year round wear. Unfortunately, I have a lot of flannel / heavier worsted stuff, and less summer stuff. But that will change!