Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[GeneralEmployer]

I believe ysl used f. Caraceni for bespoke suits. But I could be wrong. I’d imagine Leonard logsdail could do a faithful interpretation if you asked.

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I checked out Logsdail's website and Savile Row type stuff doesn't work for my body. Is he really adept at bringing to life a variety of styles? Also, a bit concerned he wears a vest with $$$ signs on the back for several reasons. What's the price point there?

 

[Marshak]

Draper's seersucker suit on its way.

Asked little alterations to my pattern with slightly larger shoulders and legs. It's gonna be great.

 

[jonathanS]

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I checked out Logsdail's website and Savile Row type stuff doesn't work for my body. Is he really adept at bringing to life a variety of styles? Also, a bit concerned he wears a vest with $$$ signs on the back for several reasons. What's the price point there?

I’m not sure. I’d ballpark Len around 8-9k. But he did the clothes for house of Gucci, wolf of Wall Street, American gangster. Some had to be period pieces which is why I suggested him. Caraceni doesn’t travel.

 

[brax]

I’m not sure. I’d ballpark Len around 8-9k. But he did the clothes for house of Gucci, wolf of Wall Street, American gangster. Some had to be period pieces which is why I suggested him. Caraceni doesn’t travel.

Kirby Allison has a video where he discusses the price point for Longsdail as well as many English and NYC tailors.

 

[GeneralEmployer]

@jonathanS + @brax

Found the Allison vid. Jonathan was right about Len's prices: $8,500 as of 2022.

If I get this done in Italy, is there anybody cheaper than Caraceni who could do it well? Also, I'm not married to an exact copy, just the idea and feel of the suit.

 

[CLH03]

@jonathanS + @brax

Found the Allison vid. Jonathan was right about Len's prices: $8,500 as of 2022.

If I get this done in Italy, is there anybody cheaper than Caraceni who could do it well? Also, I'm not married to an exact copy, just the idea and feel of the suit.

I’ve heard that Tailor Caid has quite an extensive range. Maybe not exactly what you’re looking for but I’m guessing he could get pretty close.

 

[Despos]

I'm looking to get some suits made that look and fit like vintage YSL. If you can ignore the way this is modeled (this is a big if), this is what I'm going for but as a two-piece:

A Vintage Win: YSL Three-Piece

Finding a vintage YSL three-piece suit at a luxury designer consignment shop in LA.

hespokestyle.com

Who would be the best tailor to go to for something like this? NY/LA is preferable, but I can travel just about anywhere.

Joe Genuardi would be closest to creating the style you want

 

[jonathanS]

@jonathanS + @brax

Found the Allison vid. Jonathan was right about Len's prices: $8,500 as of 2022.

If I get this done in Italy, is there anybody cheaper than Caraceni who could do it well? Also, I'm not married to an exact copy, just the idea and feel of the suit.

Joe Genuardi would be closest to creating the style you want

Yes, I misread the initial post. I thought he was referring to yves saint laurent’s actual suit.

Caraceni wouldn’t produce anything like that photo you posted. (None of them would, for good measure.) despos is correct in suggesting genuardi.

 

[Marshak]

The seersucker wool has arrived. Suit satisfaction level? High. The wider shoulders gives a bit of drama to the ensemble. I'm in love with the texture of the Draper's which you can't see because I'm too lazy to invest in a proper smartphone.

Next move? Maybe a tweed jacket with Antonio or... Assisi if they come back to Paris as planned (although my initial email exchanges with them in English have cooled me down, I got the feeling that they're not ready to face the demands of the Western, particularly the more demanding European world, off the beaten track of a Simon Crompton).

 

[Shetterd]

View attachment 1993473

Absolutely love the way this looks! This feels like quite a roomy jacket for Antonio? My first one was pretty tight, how did you communicate on this with him? Did you reference a particular style?

 

[Marshak]

Absolutely love the way this looks! This feels like quite a roomy jacket for Antonio? My first one was pretty tight, how did you communicate on this with him? Did you reference a particular style?

We'd established a pretty comfortable pattern over the past year. I asked him to widen the shoulders a little and align the back in proportion. The result is this: we're on the verge of going over my size, but in the end the whole thing is very well balanced and super comfy. No particular style, we just improved his classic cut over time. It must my seventh order with him.

I always found his mainstream cut quite similar to what Paone or Zizolfi do, a bit of room and square. No coincidence, since Mario, the father, was a cutter at Rubinacci and Antonio also worked there.

 

[xizenta]

Update on three works in progress for me.

Two 6x1 DBs:
Walnut Melange FA-16 from Fox Air
Green S160s & 1% cashmere English bolt I have had laying around for about ten years.

Lastly, a single breasted peak lapel, one button, in Ascot 2-ply (brown/grey 18017).

I think he has lowered the gorge very slightly from my last peak lapel, which was also a DB. This may be because I asked him to lower the gorge on my notch lapel jacket pattern. Looks a bit lower than I think I want, but let's see what happens when I get it and try it on. Whatever it is I will live with it because the rest of the details look great.

 

[bullethead]

The seersucker wool has arrived. Suit satisfaction level? High. The wider shoulders gives a bit of drama to the ensemble. I'm in love with the texture of the Draper's which you can't see because I'm too lazy to invest in a proper smartphone.

Next move? Maybe a tweed jacket with Antonio or... Assisi if they come back to Paris as planned (although my initial email exchanges with them in English have cooled me down, I got the feeling that they're not ready to face the demands of the Western, particularly the more demanding European world, off the beaten track of a Simon Crompton).

View attachment 1993473

 

[bullethead]

The seersucker wool has arrived. Suit satisfaction level? High. The wider shoulders gives a bit of drama to the ensemble. I'm in love with the texture of the Draper's which you can't see because I'm too lazy to invest in a proper smartphone.

Next move? Maybe a tweed jacket with Antonio or... Assisi if they come back to Paris as planned (although my initial email exchanges with them in English have cooled me down, I got the feeling that they're not ready to face the demands of the Western, particularly the more demanding European world, off the beaten track of a Simon Crompton).

View attachment 1993473

Interesting observation on Assisi. I will be in Paris in September and was thinking of scheduling a visit. They don’t seem to have a date locked down which makes me agree with your view

 

[Marshak]

Interesting observation on Assisi. I will be in Paris in September and was thinking of scheduling a visit. They don’t seem to have a date locked down which makes me agree with your view

They simply don't answer basic questions (payment mode, approximate schedule, difference in their mtm offer) because Inthink the owner doesn't speak english well. Such a gap in communicating with potential customers could be a no go because the meeting will certainly feel the same.