Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Marshak]

Escorial jackets came in as well as a pair of Larusmiani heavy cotton trousers. Fantastic experience throughout the process. Highly recommended (jackets only in my experience) for anyone with an itch for Neapolitan jacket on a budget.

Yes, I paid for both jackets and trousers. Not sponsored, just a review to help out small tailoring workshops. Definitely near the top for value, imo. Fits me, but ymmv.

I sent in a list of measurements (self measured ). I would suggest erring slightly towards looser, bigger measurements. Me having a big ego, gave myself some extra cm in chest and shoulders ? and that worked out well.

Jackets have very soft canvassing, so heavier fabrics will hide the imperfections of the fit a bit better. Of course you can always send them a jacket to clone, to be on the safe side. I would suggest lighter fabrics after one or two orders nailing down the fit. Fittings can be offered but cost goes up a lot.

Overall, I'd say jackets fit pretty good. Just took out of the box and a quick (unthorough) steam. My lower back has a more pronounced arc due to covid gains in the glutes, creating some problems. For next order, I will increase sleeve length 1/3 inch, let waist out a tiny bit 1 inch or so, increase front chest 1 inch, and higher/smaller armhole 1 inch.

Trousers are well made with great details. The dark beige cotton fabric reminds me of Yeezy 350 Moonrocks. Looks green or mint in certain lightings. Sadly, my butt is too big, making it uncomfortable sitting down. I did tell them to use Incotex size 50 for reference, maybe I should have emphasized the regular fit, not the skinny fit ?. Fits my dad fine, so he'll be wearing the pents after a trip to the tailor.

I am wearing a Kamakura shirt made by Vanacore (Luigi Borrelli?) in size 41. Ties are F. Mariano and Drake's.

Edit: I am bloated from having a double quarter pounder and fries for lunch.

Spoiler: Brown Escorial Tweed

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Spoiler: Green Escorial Tweed

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Spoiler: Trousers

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The jackets are pretty good for a remote order based only on measurements. A shame for the trousers. I confirm Antonio is a delight to deal with. And yes I also paid for it (but sent a suit to copy).

 

[ChasingStyle]

The jackets are pretty good for a remote order based only on measurements. A shame for the trousers. I confirm Antonio is a delight to deal with. And yes I also paid for it (but sent a suit to copy).

These jackets were cut by Pastena, right? I'm sorry but had a hard time finding the corresponding messages on the thread.
Could I ask about the process? Where the jackets cut straight-to-finish with just a set of measures, or did you do fitting(s) in between?
What is the price point, approximately, if I may ask?

 

[Marshak]

These jackets were cut by Pastena, right? I'm sorry but had a hard time finding the corresponding messages on the thread.
Could I ask about the process? Where the jackets cut straight-to-finish with just a set of measures, or did you do fitting(s) in between?
What is the price point, approximately, if I may ask?

Full remote for me. I sent a bespoke suit to copy. 8 days to complete and deliver the order. 1200 euros/suit. Of course if you go to Naples you'll have the right to a fitting.

 

[jiredell]

Full remote for me. I sent a bespoke suit to copy. 8 days to complete and deliver the order. 1200 euros/suit. Of course if you go to Naples you'll have the right to a fitting.

8 days from the moment you make the commission to completion of the order? This seems impossible, no? There must not be much in the way of handwork, or they have a slew of tailors in a kind of assembly line fashion in order to achieve this?

 

[Crispyj]

8 days from the moment you make the commission to completion of the order? This seems impossible, no? There must not be much in the way of handwork, or they have a slew of tailors in a kind of assembly line fashion in order to achieve this?

It's a small workshop, so yes assembly line of some sort.

 

[ChasingStyle]

8 days from the moment you make the commission to completion of the order? This seems impossible, no? There must not be much in the way of handwork, or they have a slew of tailors in a kind of assembly line fashion in order to achieve this?

The later. If you visit small tailor shops in Sicily, Naples, etc., you'll find 4-5 workers (often family members) who work on the different parts of the commission. If they are not incredibly busy (as is now the case), they are able to turn commissions around in a week. Last time I was in Sicily, Sartoria Crimi turned around 2 sport jackets in a week, with 3 fittings.

 

[jiredell]

I'm curious to know a bit more about this process. Are those of you who have worked with this tailoring house living in Europe? Or where else are you living? My sis-in-law lives in Sweden, and my experience/understanding of sending packages back and forth from the North American continent to Europe is less than ideal. Also, I'm assuming that those of you who are talking about this 8-day turnaround time are likewise in Europe? Not sure, and don't feel like prying into everyone's accounts to find out where you all live, etc. But the process is interesting, just in terms of discussion, and I can't say that the work I've seen posted here does not seem promising--it does. Anyway, more info for the curious minded would be appreciated. thx.

 

[Crispyj]

I'm curious to know a bit more about this process. Are those of you who have worked with this tailoring house living in Europe? Or where else are you living? My sis-in-law lives in Sweden, and my experience/understanding of sending packages back and forth from the North American continent to Europe is less than ideal. Also, I'm assuming that those of you who are talking about this 8-day turnaround time are likewise in Europe? Not sure, and don't feel like prying into everyone's accounts to find out where you all live, etc. But the process is interesting, just in terms of discussion, and I can't say that the work I've seen posted here does not seem promising--it does. Anyway, more info for the curious minded would be appreciated. thx.

I think 3 of us are based in NY hahaha.

 

[Marshak]

I'm curious to know a bit more about this process. Are those of you who have worked with this tailoring house living in Europe? Or where else are you living? My sis-in-law lives in Sweden, and my experience/understanding of sending packages back and forth from the North American continent to Europe is less than ideal. Also, I'm assuming that those of you who are talking about this 8-day turnaround time are likewise in Europe? Not sure, and don't feel like prying into everyone's accounts to find out where you all live, etc. But the process is interesting, just in terms of discussion, and I can't say that the work I've seen posted here does not seem promising--it does. Anyway, more info for the curious minded would be appreciated. thx.

I have the joy to live in Europe indeed. I don't know if this 8 days delivery delay is a standard or not but that's what they did with me to my great surprise. I'd say it's a very good MTM option with some limits concerning the fit due to the no-fitting model. Their canvas is too light to my taste and the jacket lacks body and flow. Concerning the handmade work I'd say it's honest, but not in par with what I got from the Tofani which are clearly above regarding the cut, the fit and finishing. That being said Antonio is super customer-oriented and pro. I don't know if I'll order another jacket but the trousers were spot on. I ordered immediately two others. One advice: I'd strongly recommend to send a suit to copy to avoid bad surprises like what Crispy experimented with his pants.

 

[danishdynamite]

Escorial jackets came in as well as a pair of Larusmiani heavy cotton trousers. Fantastic experience throughout the process. Highly recommended (jackets only in my experience) for anyone with an itch for Neapolitan jacket on a budget.

Yes, I paid for both jackets and trousers. Not sponsored, just a review to help out small tailoring workshops. Definitely near the top for value, imo. Fits me, but ymmv.

I sent in a list of measurements (self measured ). I would suggest erring slightly towards looser, bigger measurements. Me having a big ego, gave myself some extra cm in chest and shoulders ? and that worked out well.

Jackets have very soft canvassing, so heavier fabrics will hide the imperfections of the fit a bit better. Of course you can always send them a jacket to clone, to be on the safe side. I would suggest lighter fabrics after one or two orders nailing down the fit. Fittings can be offered but cost goes up a lot.

Overall, I'd say jackets fit pretty good. Just took out of the box and a quick (unthorough) steam. My lower back has a more pronounced arc due to covid gains in the glutes, creating some problems. For next order, I will increase sleeve length 1/3 inch, let waist out a tiny bit 1 inch or so, increase front chest 1 inch, and higher/smaller armhole 1 inch.

Trousers are well made with great details. The dark beige cotton fabric reminds me of Yeezy 350 Moonrocks. Looks green or mint in certain lightings. Sadly, my butt is too big, making it uncomfortable sitting down. I did tell them to use Incotex size 50 for reference, maybe I should have emphasized the regular fit, not the skinny fit ?. Fits my dad fine, so he'll be wearing the pents after a trip to the tailor.

I am wearing a Kamakura shirt made by Vanacore (Luigi Borrelli?) in size 41. Ties are F. Mariano and Drake's.

Edit: I am bloated from having a double quarter pounder and fries for lunch.

Spoiler: Brown Escorial Tweed

View attachment 1512843 View attachment 1512844 View attachment 1512845

Spoiler: Green Escorial Tweed

View attachment 1512846 View attachment 1512847 View attachment 1512848

Spoiler: Trousers

View attachment 1512863 View attachment 1512862 View attachment 1512860 View attachment 1512861

Hi how did you reach Sartoria Pastena, instagram? 1200 euros for a full suit seems like a very good value. The jackets look very good. Did you also send trousers to be copied, or was that done by measurement information? I am very tempted to give it a try, but a bit apprehensive regarding trousers. Finally got around to making an account after lurking for years. Love this thread.

 

[danishdynamite]

Well everything I've received from Pastena I paid my hard earned money for. I don't know anything of the things you said about Alan and the deleted threads. And, honestly, I don't care and it's none of my business. I do highly recommend Sartoria Pastena, I will give out their contact information to whomever wants it, and if you don't want to do business with them I don't think any tears will be shed.

Hi Viatu. Could you please forward me contact info for Pastena. I am thinking of using them for remote mtm based on a garment i wil send to them. Thank you in advance. Regards

 

[Marshak]

Hi Viatu. Could you please forward me contact info for Pastena. I am thinking of using them for remote mtm based on a garment i wil send to them. Thank you in advance. Regards

[email protected]

 

[ChasingStyle]

I have the joy to live in Europe indeed. I don't know if this 8 days delivery delay is a standard or not but that's what they did with me to my great surprise. I'd say it's a very good MTM option with some limits concerning the fit due to the no-fitting model. Their canvas is too light to my taste and the jacket lacks body and flow. Concerning the handmade work I'd say it's honest, but not in par with what I got from the Tofani which are clearly above regarding the cut, the fit and finishing. That being said Antonio is super customer-oriented and pro. I don't know if I'll order another jacket but the trousers were spot on. I ordered immediately two others. One advice: I'd strongly recommend to send a suit to copy to avoid bad surprises like what Crispy experimented with his pants.

How much is he charging for trousers?

 

[Crispyj]

How much is he charging for trousers?

200€ not including fabric. I dropped mine off at Sam Wazin. Sam said easy fix, just letting out the hips, waist and thighs.

 

[ChasingStyle]

200€ not including fabric. I dropped mine off at Sam Wazin. Sam said easy fix, just letting out the hips, waist and thighs.

That's a really good price if the quality is as you suggest and he can copy an existing pair.