Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[clothingfun]

Hello again and I hope everyone is well. I wanted to stop in briefly and say how much I am enjoying the recent activity here regarding overcoats. All the garments being posted look exceptionally handsome. I also find the discussions about the fabrics being chosen very interesting as I have no knowledge or experience with this type of thing.

I will never own something like this due to the fact that where I live I don’t have much of a need for winter clothing. Even in the months of December and January a coat like this just wouldn’t see any use. I’m still having a load of fun looking here so thanks for sharing.

If nobody minds, a quick question. I noticed on the posterior of the coats there appears to be a row of buttons midline below the waist. Is there a functional purpose for this or is it merely an aesthetic type of thing? Just curious.

Once again, great looking stuff and thanks for posting!

 

[FlyingHorker]

Hello again and I hope everyone is well. I wanted to stop in briefly and say how much I am enjoying the recent activity here regarding overcoats. All the garments being posted look exceptionally handsome. I also find the discussions about the fabrics being chosen very interesting as I have no knowledge or experience with this type of thing.

I will never own something like this due to the fact that where I live I don’t have much of a need for winter clothing. Even in the months of December and January a coat like this just wouldn’t see any use. I’m still having a load of fun looking here so thanks for sharing.

If nobody minds, a quick question. I noticed on the posterior of the coats there appears to be a row of buttons midline below the waist. Is there a functional purpose for this or is it merely an aesthetic type of thing? Just curious.

Once again, great looking stuff and thanks for posting!

It's to fully open the vent if I understood correctly.

 

[reidd]

It's to fully open the vent if I understood correctly.

You're right. Different overcoats and tailors have different construction methods for the rear vent to allow movement. I have one with more of an accordion folded vent without buttons. The buttoned one is considered the more sporty style.

 

[Crispyj]

Getting my jackets shipped out tomorrow.
Color is more accurate this time.

 

[classicalthunde]

In a traditional bespoke process (basted, forward, and final fittings), at what point is the gorge height able to be raised or lowered? Are these things that can be adjusted at the basted or forward fitting, or is it a done deal once the fabric is cut?

 

[dieworkwear]

In a traditional bespoke process (basted, forward, and final fittings), at what point is the gorge height able to be raised or lowered? Are these things that can be adjusted at the basted or forward fitting, or is it a done deal once the fabric is cut?

I believe the gorge is set after the forward fitting.

I find it hard to judge a coat during the basted and forward fittings. I usually just see if the jacket is long enough and if the chest feels comfortable. And answer questions if the tailor asks. For the gorge, the jacket is in such a half-made stage, I've never been able to judge until the buttonhole has been cut, so it requires clear communication with the tailor.

 

[classicalthunde]

I believe the gorge is set after the forward fitting.

I find it hard to judge a coat during the basted and forward fittings. I usually just see if the jacket is long enough and if the chest feels comfortable. And answer questions if the tailor asks. For the gorge, the jacket is in such a half-made stage, I've never been able to judge until the buttonhole has been cut, so it requires clear communication with the tailor.

Thanks! Mainly concerned about the gorge height on a Neapolitan-style commission, where I would want it higher than standard but not too high like I've seen on some of the Orazio Luciano stuff

I'll be sure to include a couple of sample pictures of what I'm after when the time comes and trunk shows resume.

 

[Marshak]

Getting my jackets shipped out tomorrow.
Color is more accurate this time.

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Nice. Did you work on your measurements or send Antonio something to copy?

 

[Crispyj]

Nice. Did you work on your measurements or send Antonio something to copy?

I sent my own measurements

 

[The Chai]

Received my suede jacket today

 

[dieworkwear]

So you sent them a photo of Stoffa, huh?

 

[The Chai]

So you sent them a photo of Stoffa, huh?

Yup. Keen eye!

 

[willyto]

Those are some big lapels, how do they look when zipped up?

 

[The Chai]

Those are some big lapels, how do they look when zipped up?

Don’t mind the top. I’m in my jammies

 

[EFV]

Did a streamed fitting with Pommella for a pair of green cotton trousers. Will add a bit more width all through, shorten the legs to just have a minor break and adjust back slightly. Been very happy with Pommella before, so I’m looking forward to next fitting.