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Encathol Epistemia

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I've been awaiting this post with bated breath since you showed the pics from the earlier fitting. I'm not sure this is as outrageous in public as you might be concerned about? I mean, the lapels are pretty wild, but other than that, It's a dark blue dinner jacket. Seems quite wearable, well, assuming black tie survives COVID. Since it's a bit looser and more relaxed, might you be bold enough to wear this simply as a casual smoking jacket? Looking forward to action pics!
I hope that it didn't disappoint your anticipation too badly.

I exaggerated my expectations as to the public response for effect. I don't imagine that most people have much sense of what a dinner jacket is and those lapels are pretty large. I exaggerated any anxieties about public reception for effect; I've always been... uh... let's go with eccentric. I'm more concerned about sweating too much, as velvet is quite insulating, than what anybody might think. I actually think that most people at least slightly enjoy seeing somebody dressed in a way that's now atypical. (A man once asked me for a 'fist-pound' for my bowtie)

I have considered its similarity to a smoking jacket, although I always imagine those with more decoration. I could certainly imagine wearing it on a few cold Philadelphia nights for added warmth, especially if I have my pipe or a cigar lit. Otherwise, I had planned when I first ordered to wear on my next 'Philaversary', which is the preposterous occasion that I celebrate moving to Philadelphia by first going to a cigar bar, then to a steakhouse that's decorated in the style of the nineteen fifties. It's a preposterous celebration of elevating cancer risk. Maybe next year...

Gotta say @Encathol Epistemia that dinner jacket is pretty baller. Wear it in good health.
Thank you and I will, although if the parties that I go to are any good, maybe not.

I'll pass the compliments along to the tailor. He doesn't quite grasp how things like Styleforum work, but he's taken some satisfaction in my presenting his work here.
 
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yywwyy

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Looks good. Is this from their Bard book? Do you recall the bunch number?
do you know what fabric reference number this is? Bard book I presume?

Edit: :blush: I should really read the full threads before commenting
Gents, it is from their Bard book. I do not have the ref number written down anywhere, but i do know that it is a true navy color.
 

Crispyj

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Sending back to get the sleeve head fixed. Overall very happy with how the jacket came out, especially the lapels, notch and collar.

I probably should have went with jetted pockets or 3/4" longer jacket length.
Should have listened to the old tailor :dozingoff:

Next commission will be the perfect jacket doing the above and lowering the breast pocket 1.5". 3rd time's the charm.

Edit: Sorry wearing sweatpants and t-shirt.

IMG_20200922_213221~2.jpgIMG_20200922_213226~2.jpgIMG_20200922_213230~2.jpgMVIMG_20200922_213233~2.jpg
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @Crispyj,

Since you'll send the jacket back for the sleeve-head, don't you discuss with your tailor the possibility to lengthen it?

From your pictures and only, the patch pockets are almost reaching the edges of the quarters! I am more than certain that there is fabric left inside so as to lengthen it couple of cm; the jacket will tremendously benefit from this.

Another observation I am afraid: the lapel buttonhole, is way remote from the lapel edge, almost in the centre of the lapel; this cannot be remedied but perhaps something to have in mind for your next commissions.

As always, enjoy it in health!

Best,

Dimitris
 

Crispyj

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Dear @Crispyj,

Since you'll send the jacket back for the sleeve-head, don't you discuss with your tailor the possibility to lengthen it?

From your pictures and only, the patch pockets are almost reaching the edges of the quarters! I am more than certain that there is fabric left inside so as to lengthen it couple of cm; the jacket will tremendously benefit from this.

Another observation I am afraid: the lapel buttonhole, is way remote from the lapel edge, almost in the centre of the lapel; this cannot be remedied but perhaps something to have in mind for your next commissions.

As always, enjoy it in health!

Best,

Dimitris
No chance lengthening the jacket haha. Thanks for mentioning the lapel button hole. I'll get that fixed next time as well.
 

konstantis

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No chance lengthening the jacket haha. Thanks for mentioning the lapel button hole. I'll get that fixed next time as well.
I think that you could lengthen the jacket . I had the same issue with my last tailored jacket ( i didnt heared my tailor's suggestion ) , but my tailor managed to lengthen it with very very good results.
 
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Bespoke DJP

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No chance lengthening the jacket haha.

Have you asked them? I would definitely give it a try!

I don't frequently say this, but you are the client!

Best,

Dimitris


Edited to add:
I don't think that the lengthening of a jacket is an unimaginably cumbersome task for an experienced tailor!
 
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sensuki

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The skirt at the bottom looks a bit uneven as if the left/right balance on the front is a bit off, but it may just be the photo/angle

I also assume that's 'out of the box', and not pressed post receiving (this was a remote order yeah?)
 

Crispyj

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The skirt at the bottom looks a bit uneven as if the left/right balance on the front is a bit off, but it may just be the photo/angle

I also assume that's 'out of the box', and not pressed post receiving (this was a remote order yeah?)
Yes remote and I just threw the jacket on haha, it's actually balanced if I wore it properly 😂 not pressed as well.
 

classicalthunde

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@Crispyj this is a Neapolitan-inspired Shattuck commission, correct? If so (and pardon the bluntness), why did you decide to use Frank for this commission? I love his typical stuff, which is way more structured and British-inspired, but Neapolitan is pretty much the polar opposite of what he is know for...
 

Egdon Heath

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I don't think that the lengthening of a jacket is an unimaginably cumbersome task for an experienced tailor!
It's not possible to lengthen any single breasted jacket ever. Here's why. While the normal turn-under is an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half and so yielding as much as an inch to let down, the cloth at the arc, the cut-away, the curvature at the opening's edge, is nipped to 3/8ths and extends for about two to three inches. A double breast on the other hand, which has no arc, is cut straight across, probably has full let-down cloth along its entire hem.Or so I would imagine, having no experience with the guts of a DB.
 

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