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Despos

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X-Post from Cloth thread

Opening the package for the first time put a grin on my face. This fabric feels like what you'd expect for tweed as konstantis mentioned: stretchy, spongey, hairy, scratchy, and THICK. This has some serious heft to it.

Turns out, 4m is a lot more than I thought. This is a verified horse blanket. I couldn't get the entire length in one picture.


My tailor said he only needed 3.5m, I only just realized I probably could've requested 3.5 instead of 4 unfortunately.

Still though, I'm having trouble imagining how an entire 3.5m of this stuff is required to make one coat.
He may need all of the 4m once he starts cutting. Plaids sometimes require extra length as you have to place the pattern pieces specifically to match the plaid. You can’t just move the pattern pieces closer together to save space and cloth.
Raglan sleeves are much longer than regular sleeves as they extend to the neck and the plaid has to match up with the coat body.This takes more cloth.
Topcoat patterns are long and wide.
 

FlyingHorker

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He may need all of the 4m once he starts cutting. Plaids sometimes require extra length as you have to place the pattern pieces specifically to match the plaid. You can’t just move the pattern pieces closer together to save space and cloth.
Raglan sleeves are much longer than regular sleeves as they extend to the neck and the plaid has to match up with the coat body.This takes more cloth.
Topcoat patterns are long and wide.
Oh awesome, good to know my 'mistake' was not a mistake, I'm glad I bought 4m then.

Thanks for the tips for the future as well, I didn't even think about pattern matching and raglan sleeves requiring more cloth.
 

classicalthunde

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I’ve been using John DiPietro for alterations recently after @Encathol Epistemia has been showcasing his work. It’s nice to know that I can trust him to do more complicated things than a run of the mill dry cleaning shop.

I was at his shop today to pick up some trousers I won on Luxeswap and was chatting it up with John when this beauty caught my attention out of the corner of my eye.

it was a lounge suit John had made for himself in the 70s, that is too good not to share. He even pointed out how he made sure to pattern match the breasts on the back like it was a plaid jacket.

I feel like if the scummy 70s motif is back in style, then John deserves to have his moment in the sun again. I’m not sure if this (or anywhere) is the appropriate place to share this, I figured since this thread is quasi-familiar with him it would make the most sense here.
 

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Encathol Epistemia

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I’ve been using John DiPietro for alterations recently after @Encathol Epistemia has been showcasing his work. It’s nice to know that I can trust him to do more complicated things than a run of the mill dry cleaning shop.
I believe that Mr. Di Pietro showed me the trousers that you had asked to have altered when I visited to retrieve my dinner jacket on the 12th. I'm pleased that you are satisfied with his work. He had little to do for some months earlier in lockdown, but the last time I was there he seemed to be doing pretty good trade. He takes considerable pride in his work, but in my experience also gives pretty conscientious service to customers. I have to admit that I sometimes have underestimated him; he will eagerly show suits that he made thirty years ago, but are still in good condition, but I find him by and large to be unpretentious, willing admit doubt or uncertainty about what he can or cannot do. When making my very dark green suit he wasn't sure if he could do the half-belted back that I'd suggested, but a few weeks later he delivered it with one neatly in place and even suggested it for a sport coat that I commissioned recently, although I demurred at that, since I didn't think that it would fit, although I probably have time to change my mind.

He also has a very low regard for dry cleaning tailors, which my own experience suggest is warranted. I should share the bizarre things that I got when I asked for stem holders to be added tor two of my old internet made-to-measure suits one of these days. Nobody had asked Mr. Di Pietro for them in many years and he usually omits lapel buttonholes unless asked, but he knew what there were and how to make them, which is a rather basic skill, but evidently now rare. (Mr. Genuardi also knows them and includes them on all of his jackets, but I might be his only client who has ever asked about them or known what they are, probably because I'm weird.)

I was at his shop today to pick up some trousers I won on Luxeswap and was chatting it up with John when this beauty caught my attention out of the corner of my eye.

it was a lounge suit John had made for himself in the 70s, that is too good not to share. He even pointed out how he made sure to pattern match the breasts on the back like it was a plaid jacket.

I feel like if the scummy 70s motif is back in style, then John deserves to have his moment in the sun again. I’m not sure if this (or anywhere) is the appropriate place to share this, I figured since this thread is quasi-familiar with him it would make the most sense here.
There can't be many tailors who have pattern-matched breasts!

I've somehow never seen that one before. It's quite... striking. I would almost surely never want something quite like that for myself, but it's a Hell of a piece and I admire the audacity. I'm probably be there sometimes soon to retrieve a suit that I gave him to press, so I'll have to make sure to see it. I've gotten some sense that he likes things that have some 'flair' to them.
 

Texasmade

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Any current bespoke clients of Richard Anderson here? I just saw an email that he's offering 20% off bespoke commissions right now.
 

Bespoke DJP

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...it was a lounge suit John had made for himself in the 70s, that is too good not to share. He even pointed out how he made sure to pattern match the breasts on the back like it was a plaid jacket.

I feel like if the scummy 70s motif is back in style, then John deserves to have his moment in the sun again.

"King of Soho" jacket!
 

dauster

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Any current bespoke clients of Richard Anderson here? I just saw an email that he's offering 20% off bespoke commissions right now.
Just saw that too but they are still not coming to the US - so I don't know if I will be able to take advantage.
 

dresden

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Final fitting for this overcoat. She thought the shoulders were a little too extended, raised the buttoning point one cm, took the back in a bit, raised the belt in the back,
8F555888-DDB4-4E0D-9827-2BDEC214172A.jpeg
D70AFDA4-16E6-4BEC-8B6C-6213A86DD23E.jpeg
3A81D3E6-2DC9-475A-BD42-61BE5C377970.jpeg
3770137B-990F-4805-87C4-B7A7DA095550.jpeg
B611E136-DA9F-450F-B9E3-F9274F022CE5.jpeg
pulled the collar a little tighter and has to angle the breast pocket down a bit. Ended up too straight after the other changes.
 

dieworkwear

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Final fitting for this overcoat. She thought the shoulders were a little too extended, raised the buttoning point one cm, took the back in a bit, raised the belt in the back,View attachment 1472666View attachment 1472667View attachment 1472668View attachment 1472669View attachment 1472670pulled the collar a little tighter and has to angle the breast pocket down a bit. Ended up too straight after the other changes.
FWIW, I think polo coats look better with a slightly dropped buttoning point. It makes the style look more louche and casual. Some examples



tumblr_nm03brcoZR1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
Ralph-Lauren-polo-coat.jpg

tumblr_m9wih22wub1rf1jvro1_1280.jpg
tumblr_piy2xyEKmf1qahplno1_1280.jpg



When you set the buttoning point closer at the natural waist, it ends up looking more like a regular double-breasted overcoat in tan, rather than the trad-y British/ American style of a polo coat.

0d9620dc56bafbedbb09eb8ec2736c12.jpg
 

dresden

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FWIW, I think polo coats look better with a slightly dropped buttoning point. It makes the style look more louche and casual. Some examples



View attachment 1473102View attachment 1473103
View attachment 1473099View attachment 1473104


When you set the buttoning point closer at the natural waist, it ends up looking more like a regular double-breasted overcoat in tan, rather than the trad-y British/ American style of a polo coat.

View attachment 1473106
Yeah, I wrote raised on accident. She lowered the buttoning point because she was worried the top buttons would be too high. Until looking at your pics just now, I never paid attention to actually how low the buttons are on those. Changes the whole feel of the coat.
 

dresden

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FWIW, I think polo coats look better with a slightly dropped buttoning point. It makes the style look more louche and casual. Some examples



View attachment 1473102View attachment 1473103
View attachment 1473099View attachment 1473104


When you set the buttoning point closer at the natural waist, it ends up looking more like a regular double-breasted overcoat in tan, rather than the trad-y British/ American style of a polo coat.

View attachment 1473106
This is the picture I gave her when we started a year and a half ago. A pic from the tailor who made me a blue overcoat years ago. Like you said, I just ordered a double breasted overcoat in tan. Luckily for me, she seems to have turned it into a polo coat. As well as the lower buttons, she asked if she could change the lapel from the one in the pic I gave her to one more like the pics you posted.
E49D2727-58B5-49BA-98B5-67AD26D5F042.png
 

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