Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Crispyj]

Dear @Crispyj,

Since you'll send the jacket back for the sleeve-head, don't you discuss with your tailor the possibility to lengthen it?

From your pictures and only, the patch pockets are almost reaching the edges of the quarters! I am more than certain that there is fabric left inside so as to lengthen it couple of cm; the jacket will tremendously benefit from this.

Another observation I am afraid: the lapel buttonhole, is way remote from the lapel edge, almost in the centre of the lapel; this cannot be remedied but perhaps something to have in mind for your next commissions.

As always, enjoy it in health!

Best,

Dimitris

No chance lengthening the jacket haha. Thanks for mentioning the lapel button hole. I'll get that fixed next time as well.

 

[konstantis]

No chance lengthening the jacket haha. Thanks for mentioning the lapel button hole. I'll get that fixed next time as well.

I think that you could lengthen the jacket . I had the same issue with my last tailored jacket ( i didnt heared my tailor's suggestion ) , but my tailor managed to lengthen it with very very good results.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

No chance lengthening the jacket haha.

Have you asked them? I would definitely give it a try!

I don't frequently say this, but you are the client!

Best,

Dimitris


Edited to add:
I don't think that the lengthening of a jacket is an unimaginably cumbersome task for an experienced tailor!

 

[sensuki]

The skirt at the bottom looks a bit uneven as if the left/right balance on the front is a bit off, but it may just be the photo/angle

I also assume that's 'out of the box', and not pressed post receiving (this was a remote order yeah?)

 

[Crispyj]

The skirt at the bottom looks a bit uneven as if the left/right balance on the front is a bit off, but it may just be the photo/angle

I also assume that's 'out of the box', and not pressed post receiving (this was a remote order yeah?)

Yes remote and I just threw the jacket on haha, it's actually balanced if I wore it properly ? not pressed as well.

 

[classicalthunde]

@Crispyj this is a Neapolitan-inspired Shattuck commission, correct? If so (and pardon the bluntness), why did you decide to use Frank for this commission? I love his typical stuff, which is way more structured and British-inspired, but Neapolitan is pretty much the polar opposite of what he is know for...

 

[Egdon Heath]

I don't think that the lengthening of a jacket is an unimaginably cumbersome task for an experienced tailor!

It's not possible to lengthen any single breasted jacket ever. Here's why. While the normal turn-under is an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half and so yielding as much as an inch to let down, the cloth at the arc, the cut-away, the curvature at the opening's edge, is nipped to 3/8ths and extends for about two to three inches. A double breast on the other hand, which has no arc, is cut straight across, probably has full let-down cloth along its entire hem.Or so I would imagine, having no experience with the guts of a DB.

 

[Marshak]

Finished recently: Lovat 3-ply navy wool. Very matte, which I'm really happy with.

View attachment 1461774

Lovely cut and fabric. Who's the tailor?

 

[lordsuperb]

Sending back to get the sleeve head fixed. Overall very happy with how the jacket came out, especially the lapels, notch and collar.

I probably should have went with jetted pockets or 3/4" longer jacket length.
Should have listened to the old tailor

Next commission will be the perfect jacket doing the above and lowering the breast pocket 1.5". 3rd time's the charm.

Edit: Sorry wearing sweatpants and t-shirt.

View attachment 1463581 View attachment 1463582 View attachment 1463583 View attachment 1463584

I'm not feeling this one.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

It's not possible to lengthen any single breasted jacket ever. Here's why. While the normal turn-under is an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half and so yielding as much as an inch to let down, the cloth at the arc, the cut-away, the curvature at the opening's edge, is nipped to 3/8ths and extends for about two to three inches. A double breast on the other hand, which has no arc, is cut straight across, probably has full let-down cloth along its entire hem.Or so I would imagine, having no experience with the guts of a DB.

Dear @Egdon Heath,

You may be right. I am no tailor so I have no technical knowledge, thus an informed, knowledgeable opinion would be more than welcome!

Nevertheless, we may observe that the said jacket has very closed quarters, having the opposite silhouette of a Liverano-made jacket. This is not of my liking, but perhaps this is an advantage if the tailor would contemplate a minor lengthening: it has a minimal curvature and to my non-technical eyes if one just "extends" the end of the curvature downwards to the desired length (circa 2cm), this might be achievable.

I wish I could draw a juxtaposition for you in the first image that our fellow @Crispyj has posted.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Crispyj]

@Crispyj this is a Neapolitan-inspired Shattuck commission, correct? If so (and pardon the bluntness), why did you decide to use Frank for this commission? I love his typical stuff, which is way more structured and British-inspired, but Neapolitan is pretty much the polar opposite of what he is know for...

It was a random thought. Probably won't do this again, see Frank's instagram post haha. Frank actually isn't structured, he usually does not use padding. Great experience though, Frank really has the handwork.

 

[classicalthunde]

It was a random thought. Probably won't do this again, see Frank's instagram post haha. Frank actually isn't structured, he usually does not use padding. Great experience though, Frank really has the handwork.

lol, I like Frank's honesty almost as much as I like his tailoring...

 

[Despos]

It's not possible to lengthen any single breasted jacket ever. Here's why. While the normal turn-under is an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half and so yielding as much as an inch to let down, the cloth at the arc, the cut-away, the curvature at the opening's edge, is nipped to 3/8ths and extends for about two to three inches. A double breast on the other hand, which has no arc, is cut straight across, probably has full let-down cloth along its entire hem.Or so I would imagine, having no experience with the guts of a DB.

Can be done on SB jackets, have done it several times.
Every tailor trims the outlet their own way on double breasted, some can be made longer and sometimes not

 

[Despos]

It was a random thought. Probably won't do this again, see Frank's instagram post haha. Frank actually isn't structured, he usually does not use padding. Great experience though, Frank really has the handwork.

Still impressed he is making jackets for you without ever meeting with you.
That shirring on the sleeve head doesn’t work with a hard worsted cloth. The construct and cloth type are incompatible

I liked Franks’s comments about the silk worms on another IG post he made today

 

[FlowableFill]

Thoughts on the button stance of this jacket?

I've been contemplating lowering it like so...

Spoiler: lower stance