Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[ericgereghty]



That suit looks great on you, Cox. Flannel gives a bit, however if it's tight I'd mention it. If it's not too much trouble you could send it back with instructions; during fittings I've noticed letting out seams even a half centimeter can make a difference in comfort.

I wear the 0656 trousers all the time with a navy sportcoat, and even though the jacket has patch pockets I'm with Lord Superb and prefer sportcoats to have bolder patters. It would work in a pinch, but would be suboptimal :foo:

Would be curious to see some navy SC/0656 trews pics. I imagine it resolves to grey unless viewed at close distance?

 

[UrbanComposition]

 

[ericgereghty]

Very nice. Really cool tie as well.

 

[Coxsackie]

Thanks for the advice UC, I could send the jacket back but I'd feel a bit guilty, as it was I who agitated for more waist suppression in the first place.

Another option would be to get my local alterations guy (who is very talented) to let it out for me. This might prove to be not much more expensive than the Oz-Japan shipping cost, with less guesswork and a much shorter wait.

I hadn't thought of wearing the trews as a separate. Brilliant.

 

[brax]



Quick preview, more to come.

I recognize that! Chris does tremendous work.

 

[Newcomer]



I recognize that! Chris does tremendous work.

I concur! Really excited about this project. We are doing a few more things on that one to get the details right.

 

[dng992]

Whats peoples views on jetted trouser pockets as side pockets vs 1/4 vs on seam.

Neither of my 2 fully bespoke suits (italian) are fully complete, however I had opted for on seam based on tailor recommendation, and the other for jetted.

Jetted pockets as side pockets for trousers does not seem popular in the community however personally I am led to believe it gives a cleaner look in that the pockets dont 'flap' open as much and therefore are streamlined for the wearer. With the addition of a single pleat Im under the impression this will give a clean look. However many favour 1/4 or on seam. Any views on this/on body photos/comparisons?

 

[sugarbutch]

If you like 'em, get 'em.

 

[Coxsackie]

I have a pair of odd trousers with jetted side pockets which I really like. Word: make sure you specify your trews with pleats, preferably double. Otherwise it will be almost impossible to get your hands into said pockets to retrieve your wallet/thumb-box/billiards.

 

[dng992]

I have a pair of odd trousers with jetted side pockets which I really like. Word: make sure you specify your trews with pleats, preferably double. Otherwise it will be almost impossible to get your hands into said pockets to retrieve your wallet/thumb-box/billiards.

Yer I mean personally I dont utilise side pockets of my trousers to store things as I'm not a fan of havings things in them, its more for normality to have some kind of pockets in trousers which I feel the need to have/also occasionally you do find yourself resting your hands in them - so the use of the pocket per say is not really my interest.

I think I will go ahead with them anyhow. I find it very easy to be dictated by IG/trending looks and obviously your tastes change and develop so nothing is set in stone. E.g. Im more a fan of mitred cuffs on shirting yet I know if I left this to the decision of the tailor they would recommend 'curved'.

Just interested as to whether anyone ITT goes for jetted side trouser pockets as obviously jetted on jackets regardless of formality is 'popular' right now

 

[Griffindork]



Whats peoples views on jetted trouser pockets as side pockets vs 1/4 vs on seam.


Neither of my 2 fully bespoke suits (italian) are fully complete, however I had opted for on seam based on tailor recommendation, and the other for jetted.


Jetted pockets as side pockets for trousers does not seem popular in the community however personally I am led to believe it gives a cleaner look in that the pockets dont 'flap' open as much and therefore are streamlined for the wearer. With the addition of a single pleat Im under the impression this will give a clean look. However many favour 1/4 or on seam. Any views on this/on body photos/comparisons?

All of my trousers from my primary tailor have jetted pockets off the seam. My tailor calls them "western pockets", although I've never heard that term to describe them anywhere else. I get them because I've found that with all my other trousers, over time the pocket affects the fit and gives a bulge on the hips that isn't flattering. I also like the look. I don't put a whole lot in my trouser pockets, but I've never found these particularly difficult to deal with. Here is the best I can do for a pic. I think you can see what I mean if you zoom in:

 

[dng992]

All of my trousers from my primary tailor have jetted pockets off the seam. My tailor calls them "western pockets", although I've never heard that term to describe them anywhere else. I get them because I've found that with all my other trousers, over time the pocket affects the fit and gives a bulge on the hips that isn't flattering. I also like the look. I don't put a whole lot in my trouser pockets, but I've never found these particularly difficult to deal with. Here is the best I can do for a pic. I think you can see what I mean if you zoom in:

Thanks for that. Thats my understanding as well. However I was told that the bulging/flapping was a result of perhaps trousers not being fitted properly (I had currently only been having MTM and the pockets were something visually I knew I wanted to change - they were 1/4). I suppose obviously if you do actually use them/put your hands in them then over the day they get even more extended naturally.

e.g. http://tinyurl.com/jrldqd4

 

[Despos]

Use a single pipe ( jetted pocket) on almost all trousers with reverse pleats and 99% of clients order reverse pleats. 1/4 top on a few and it is determined by cloth used more than anything else. You can also make two pipes but I prefer one pipe for front and back pockets. Looks cleaner and doesn't sag open.

Agiffy, your pocket, as best I can make out form the picture, runs horizontal and resembles western pockets that have also been called frog mouth on the internet but have always referred to them as western pockets. That is a different pocket then the standard version of a western pocket and you cannot make that style with pleats. The difference with your pocket is it looks like it is a piped pocket cut into the cloth. Standard western pocket is made like a jean's pocket.

The question asked is about using a piped pocket with pleats and the pipe runs vertically not horizontal

 

[dng992]

Use a single pipe ( jetted pocket) on almost all trousers with reverse pleats and 99% of clients order reverse pleats. 1/4 top on a few and it is determined by cloth used more than anything else. You can also make two pipes but I prefer one pipe for front and back pockets. Looks cleaner and doesn't sag open.

Agiffy, your pocket, as best I can make out form the picture, runs horizontal and resembles western pockets that have also been called frog mouth on the internet but have always referred to them as western pockets. That is a different pocket then the standard version of a western pocket and you cannot make that style with pleats. The difference with your pocket is it looks like it is a piped pocket cut into the cloth. Standard western pocket is made like a jean's pocket.

The question asked is about using a piped pocket with pleats and the pipe runs vertically not horizontal

Interesting to know! Thats what I was after. Out of curiosity, what do your clients choose for the back? no pockets, or a single right one is my current stance

 

[Despos]

Back pocket configuration is best left to personal preference. Have only one client who gets one back right pocket with a flap but on specific trousers, not on all.

A lot of clients prefer no back pockets, most get two. Some get no pockets on suit trousers and get back pockets on casual trousers.

My take/advice is two or none. Not a fan of one back pocket.

Preference for myself is none.

The single pipe front pocket with reverse pleats is my favorite because it sort of disappears or looks like the line of the small pleat. It doesn't bow open and lays flat.
Also prefer how it is positioned on the trouser front. A bit more forward than 1/4 top and has a more natural placement for your hand. You don't have to reach back to the side seams to get into the pocket like with on seam pockets. It doesn't stretch out like 1/4 top pockets tend to.

With regular pleats I do on seam pockets, seems the most traditional choice.