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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. JIMB

    JIMB Senior member

    Messages:
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    Trousers from Tailor's Keep, thanks @UrbanComposition for the recommendation. Comments and critiques welcome.

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    Button through cuffs.
     
    4 people like this.
  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Those look nice, but maybe a touch tight across the hips?

    Personally would get a narrower waistband, but that's a matter of preference.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2017
    2 people like this.
  3. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Slim thighs and/or seat can sometimes cause splayed pockets. Letting out either or both might ameliorate it. Still, they look pretty awesome. My subsequent trousers only got better.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. JIMB

    JIMB Senior member

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    Thanks guys, I agree there seems to be some pocket flare going on. I wasn't sure how much to expect that to go away given my unusual waist / hip / thigh ratio, so having the outside perspective is helpful.

    I'll give them a few wears to see if the cotton stretches, and take them in if needed. Ryan's been dedicated to getting things as perfect as possible.

    Dieworkwear, I did see your recent post and suspected they might not be to your taste :) It is something I requested; I like the look in theory. We'll see about in practice.
     
  5. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    They look good and I echo the suggestions. I prefer a slightly higher rise with side tab trousers, but ymmv.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    First suggestion: they are too skinny
    Second suggestion: they are too skinny

    The other details look well executed
     
  7. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior member

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    The side seam of the trousers should run relatively straight. At the bottom of the side pockets it is pulled to the front considerably. This tells you roughly how much the trouser front width should be enlarged there. I have a similar anatomy and I am moving away from slim trousers.
     
    4 people like this.
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Where is tailors keep?
     
  9. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    Location:
    Tokyo
    Custom shoes at Marquess

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    2 people like this.
  10. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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  11. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Those are all yours?
     
  12. JIMB

    JIMB Senior member

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    San Francisco financial district.

    Thanks @zr3rs, that's a clear indicator.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  13. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior member

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    I asked because on another thread somewhere, somebody made a comment that it's usually the non-dominant hand that ends up with a low shoulder. This is true for me, and I played baseball for about 14 years, and then was a competitive weightlifter as well. Definitely some damage happening there.
     
  14. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member

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    That does not square with my experience fitting people. The vast majority of men seem to have a dropped right shoulder, of varying degrees. We rarely see someone with a dropped left shoulder.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Senior member

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    This^
     
  16. flvinny521

    flvinny521 Senior member

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    So I guess I am an oddball, then. A righty with a dropped left. Maybe that's why I've never been happy with anything RTW.
     
  17. bienluienapris

    bienluienapris Senior member

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    In fact, there's more right handed people than left handed. So the right shoulder is more sought, when you carry different think, when you pratice your sport, and generally during your life. I don't really knows how shoulders are damaged when playing baseball, but I can imagine it, so maybe this sport is more traumatic for your left part. I think that we can find specific exercise (stretching etc...) in order to align the shoulders.
     
  18. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Is that not possible with certain stances and builds?

    Seems strange to me to sacrifice silhouette for a straight side seam, no? My main concern for trousers is always how cleanly the pants fall, along with the silhouette.
     
  19. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior member

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    I am not sure that I fully understand your question. Clearly the side seam straightness is not the highest priority. I am no cutter, but in most cases you should be able to get the side seam straight by increasing the front and correspondingly decreasing the back side (patterns aside). In this case I think the cut was intended for less prominent thighs. But when you try a slim fit with strong thighs and want to have straight falling trousers, the thighs will always be much tighter than the rest of the leg, which is clearly visible when you move or sit. If you move away from slim trousers, you get a more harmonious image and its also more comfortable.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Sorry if my point wasn't clear. I was saying that silhouette and fit take priority when it comes to tailoring. The only time I think of seams is when I want a cleaner appearance (maybe forgoing a back seam on a jacket, or giving up front darts in favor of an underarm dart or something).

    I'm also not a cutter, but to take an example: if you want a slim leg line and you stand with your hips forward and knees locked (as most men today do), your natural line is already pitched forward. You can get that straight side seam if the trousers are full enough, but on slim pants, wouldn't that just cut unnaturally down the front half of the trousers as you move towards the hem? Think of the angle of person's posture, then draw a straight line down from the hips. Probably easier with someone like @UrbanComposition, since he naturally stands straighter (knees not so locked; hips not so forward). But for other guys, I'm not sure how a straight side seam would work.

    To get that straight side seam, it seems like you'd have to give up on a slim silhouette, which ... seems odd to put seams in front of silhouettes, in terms of priority?

    I agree the trousers should fall cleanly when you move (to a realistic degree, anyway). And they should feel comfortable. Only @JIMB can say whether those things are true since we're just looking at still photos.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2017

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